When my regulator was on its way out, I got all sorts of flaky things happening. The 6th gear indicator lamp stopped working at times, and other gauge issues. After regulator was changes, all was well again.

 

An update on this. Dealer says its the stator.

They know because they put a meter on the wire coming out of the stator to the VR (and the other lead was grounded of course), and they said the stator was completely grounded, which meant the coating on the wires in the stator are gone or at least compromised in a significant way.

Its that easy to test for a bad stator?

 

Keith,

Replace the stator and regulator/rectifier with Cycle Electric components. They're much better than stock.

http://www.cycleelectricinc.com/

 

There were issues with regulators in 2012 & 2013. Factory replaced mine for free. Stator typically leaves a heavy burnt electric smell in the primary.

 

 

Yes; it's that easy.

 

First get the battery checked. It's easiest to get to/replace without doing anything else. If the battery checks out, go to #2.

Second, if the battery is good, charge it fully, start the bike, then check the voltage (DC) at the battery terminals with it running. Should be 12.6V or higher. Rev the motor - the voltage should come up to 13.5-14V. If it's still low, shut it down, go to #3.

Third step would be to test the stator. You can do this without pulling the primary cover off - unplug the TWO wire connector at the voltage regulator. Set your multimeter to resistance (ohms) and put the positive (red) lead from the meter into the plug, and the negative lead to a known ground (engine case bolt or starter bolt is preferred here). You should read "OL" or "OVER" or "OVER LIMITS" here. Move the positive lead (red) from one wire in the connector to the other wire. Repeat the test to engine ground. Should still read "OL", etc. If you see a path (0.0ohms), the stator has grounded out to the engine inside the case. If both sides check out, move to 3.5, stator part 2!

Three.five - Stator, part 2. Set your meter to AC CURRENT. THE STATOR OUTPUTS ALTERNATING CURRENT (AC) - NOT DIRECT CURRENT (DC). If you leave it set to DC current, it won't read anything, or worst case, could blow up your meter. Put a lead from the multimeter into each side of the connector. Start the bike. It should read somewhere near 20V at idle. Rev the bike - voltage should increase as rev's come up, 19-26V per 1000rpm - so at 2000rpm you should see somewhere between 38-52V.

Fourth - If the stator checks out, shut the bike down, plug the stator back into the voltage regulator. Use the multimeter to check resistance (ohms) between the regulator housing and a known ground wire (the negative side of the battery is perfect). Anything more than 0.1 is bad. Remove the wire, clean the wire/regulator, and reinstall. Repeat where the wire connects to the frame. If that checks out ok, then go to #5.

Fifth - Voltage regulator part 2. Unplug the voltage regulator harness from the regulator. You can test for bleed in the regulator, as well as current draw.

 

Sorry to hear that. Bummer.

 

trouble shoot the problem correctly and then do the above .

 

Latest update for anyone that cares. They opened it up today, stator definitely hosed.

Also compensator spring pack. No big deal on that, ~$90 part, no labor, of course.