Cracked oil pan
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 307
From: mid Michigan
O and in the future just use old school Allen wrench when it starts to bend stop if you even go that far. That works for any size Allen. Torgue wrench bit me on snowmobile exhaust vavles once , I use a wrench on those now.
Last edited by xcbullet; May 23, 2017 at 02:16 PM.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 19,928
Likes: 8,030
From: poway
Wouldn't surprise me.. Add enough Teflon tape to grove that is designed for an O ring, and the side will blow out at the weakest point then the crack will travel from there.. Tape not only made required TQ less but also provided material to overfill the groove.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: IL
I did just a single layer wrap of tape (I always try to minimize the overlap) but rereading the service manual I see no mention of tape..Just something the tutorials I saw mentioned. I guess it makes sense that it will increase the torque etc since it's a tighter fit. Never again..
Expensive lesson..Freaking oil pan and gasket was $200 at the stealership. I can get one installed parts+labor on a car for that give or take...As for a +1 or +1.5 pan, reading reviews they seemed like hype..I'm just a stage 1 and don't plan on any big engine overhauls nor cross country hard rides so couldn't justify the extra ~$400 for the bigger pan (SE +1.5qt pan is $600...).
I have a bike jack (sears) and a bunch of 1500lb ratchet straps but nothing usable to suspend the bike from unfortunately and nobody around me has garage space for me to borrow a more suitable setup. Have been racking my brain and heard a few people using jack stands to keep it up after removing the rear wheel but that just seems like a route to bigger trouble at this point.
The general consensus seems to be to skip the torque wrench or at least step down to a 1/4" if I do use one again. I think in the future I'll be hand snugging them and just check them for drops for a few days after.
Great point about the o-ring VS teflon. I didn't think twice about it since there was a buttload of paste already on the plugs, but yeah if that o-ring is sitting flush and snug nothing should come out nor should the plug vibe-rotate out. I did put new o-rings on at least, not that it helps now..
Expensive lesson..Freaking oil pan and gasket was $200 at the stealership. I can get one installed parts+labor on a car for that give or take...As for a +1 or +1.5 pan, reading reviews they seemed like hype..I'm just a stage 1 and don't plan on any big engine overhauls nor cross country hard rides so couldn't justify the extra ~$400 for the bigger pan (SE +1.5qt pan is $600...).
I have a bike jack (sears) and a bunch of 1500lb ratchet straps but nothing usable to suspend the bike from unfortunately and nobody around me has garage space for me to borrow a more suitable setup. Have been racking my brain and heard a few people using jack stands to keep it up after removing the rear wheel but that just seems like a route to bigger trouble at this point.
The general consensus seems to be to skip the torque wrench or at least step down to a 1/4" if I do use one again. I think in the future I'll be hand snugging them and just check them for drops for a few days after.
Great point about the o-ring VS teflon. I didn't think twice about it since there was a buttload of paste already on the plugs, but yeah if that o-ring is sitting flush and snug nothing should come out nor should the plug vibe-rotate out. I did put new o-rings on at least, not that it helps now..
Road Captain
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 519
Likes: 83
From: NC
I never use tape or pipe dope on any of the plugs. I also make sure the threads are oil free. A new O-ring everytime and I've never had a leak. I use a torque wrench on pretty much everything, but I test it first on a bolt or nut that I know has a higher torque spec than what I'm tightening to make sure it's clicking correctly. Then I'll use it to tighten the plug. I never tighten anything to the max specification. I shoot for somewhere in the middle.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 17,625
Likes: 1,665
From: Blairsville GA
I made some struts out of 1/8" steel scraps.
Lift bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel per normal. Remove shocks, insert struts. Chock the front wheel and use a bottle jack and 2x4 to lift the rear.
Lift bike on bike jack and remove rear wheel per normal. Remove shocks, insert struts. Chock the front wheel and use a bottle jack and 2x4 to lift the rear.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 2,099
Likes: 307
From: mid Michigan
If you have a garage with rafters you can get to then all you need is some good strap's. The pic I posted I pryed on cross brace to frame to make room for pan to come out.
PS there is two guick strap's going to a vise to keep bike from swinging.
PS there is two guick strap's going to a vise to keep bike from swinging.
Last edited by xcbullet; May 23, 2017 at 03:25 PM.
Thread Starter
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6th Gear
Joined: May 2017
Posts: 11
Likes: 2
From: IL
No rafters unfortunately. It has an overhead crawlspace that's tight enough to be very uncomfortable, and a bedroom above it. I was tempted to try to drop some eye bolts into the rafters through the drywall, add some steel tubes, and support it via that but that's a lot of messing around and I'd be nervous as hell getting under the bike hanging like that.