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Cracked oil pan

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Old May 23, 2017 | 03:39 PM
  #31  
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If you do like someone else mentioned with the front wheel chucked some good 5/16 hooks will work. The back doesn't wiegh much after tire is off.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 04:41 PM
  #32  
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The damage is done, just throw down some blankets and lay the bike on it's side to get that new pan installed!
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 05:49 PM
  #33  
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I rarely hold the end of a ratchet or wrench on these items. Tighten the drain or spark plugs with the least leverage to start then maybe a little snug past if needed. I do like to torque suspension and engine parts to avoid binding or damage and of course safety.

That sucked. We have all been there at one time or another. When I was in he army we would try and calibrate our hands to the wrench and recognize when something feels wrong. I am guessing you would now feel like you were over torquing that plug in hind sight.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 06:02 PM
  #34  
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That's all the poor guy needs, is to bust ceiling beams and do some structural damage to his house.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 06:18 PM
  #35  
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To the OP - that blows,and it sucks that it happened to you. No need to bust your chops and add to the misery. But, I will suggest that you lay off the tape, follow the service manual, and use a proper torque wrench. As soon as you start adding to the procedure, you're experimenting.

Lots of people will argue with me, and that's fine.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 07:32 PM
  #36  
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My 57 year old house held all of my heavy hog. One side on one truss & your good to go. If a house can't hold 900 lbs it's in bad shape.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 08:38 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Cygnusx51
The damage is done, just throw down some blankets and lay the bike on it's side to get that new pan installed!
Mmhmm. More effective than many realize. Drain the oil, pull the battery and carefully tip it over. Those crash bars hold it just fine. Gives great access and visibility to the job.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 09:54 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by foxtrapper
Mmhmm. More effective than many realize. Drain the oil, pull the battery and carefully tip it over. Those crash bars hold it just fine. Gives great access and visibility to the job.

The battery is AGM, don't need to pull.. You need to pull the rear wheel first tho..


Add: and don't forget to drain the tranny..
 

Last edited by Max Headflow; May 23, 2017 at 09:55 PM. Reason: add.
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Old May 23, 2017 | 10:01 PM
  #39  
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Yea, glass mat batteries don't leak nearly as much as old fashioned wet cell batteries did. But laid on its side...I'd rather just pull it and not worry, or worse have to neutralize and clean up a spill.
 
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Old May 23, 2017 | 10:29 PM
  #40  
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Drain plugs and derby cover screws are the biggest victims of torque wrenches. I never use 'em.

On drain plugs I do use a dab of Loctite 565. It's not a thread locker, it dries semi hard. I just snug down the drain plug, the sealer gives just enough resistance on the threads that if a plug comes loose it won't back out on it's own. It's very similar to the coating that comes on the plugs from the factory, been using it for years with no issues.

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