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Old May 30, 2017 | 11:15 PM
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True track and people who have it installed. I am looking for testimonials that true track will stop the wobble associated with high speed. For instance, if some one were riding along at say hypothetically 110 mph and the bars started wiggling back and forth, would the sole addition of a true track stabilizer stop the shake? so if you ride fast and have had this wobble happen and then added a true track or any other device and it stopped the wobble. tell me what you used . thanks in advance. I do not condone or recommend riding above the posted speed limit. I am taking it to the track. I have read a lot about them I am just looking for some facts before dropping that much cash.
 

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Old May 31, 2017 | 12:59 AM
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I think you are looking more at the effect of the batwing fairing lifting the front wheel.

this'll start at about 85 MPH get worse as speed increases

the klockwerks is meant to help provide some downforce to get some traction from the front tire

mike
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 01:11 AM
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
I think you are looking more at the effect of the batwing fairing lifting the front wheel.

this'll start at about 85 MPH get worse as speed increases

the klockwerks is meant to help provide some downforce to get some traction from the front tire

mike
do you have the klock werks and Does the klock werk make a real difference.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 04:56 AM
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Read my thread on the subject of wobble, to better understand what is behind it. The answer to your query is that a variety of things can cause the wobble, such as badly worn tyres, wrong tyre presures, bad wheel bearings, bad swingarm bearings, badly loaded bike, etc. Riding at the speeds you mention means you must ensure your vehicle is in the very peak of condition!

Meaning this in the nicest possible way, our touring bikes are a disaster aerodynamically and air/wind will have a big say in what our bike does, depending on conditions and any stuff we add to them, especially when riding at speed. Also at speed noise becomes intrusive, unless you wear ear plugs. The wobble you experience could simply be you gripping the bars tight. Try ear plugs to see if that improves things for you and enables you to relax your grip.

Adding a True-Track kit, which I have used for many years now, will have a significant benefit IMHO. Even at modest road speeds it will improve the feel and feedback you get while riding, as your bike will point and respond better to commands, feeling more taught. It is well worth installing one for those improvements alone. I wouldn't install a T-T kit simply because I want to go fast! At speed those benefits continue, providing improved stability and confidence.

Hope that helps.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 08:51 AM
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Originally Posted by grbrown
Read my thread on the subject of wobble, to better understand what is behind it. The answer to your query is that a variety of things can cause the wobble, such as badly worn tyres, wrong tyre presures, bad wheel bearings, bad swingarm bearings, badly loaded bike, etc. Riding at the speeds you mention means you must ensure your vehicle is in the very peak of condition!

Meaning this in the nicest possible way, our touring bikes are a disaster aerodynamically and air/wind will have a big say in what our bike does, depending on conditions and any stuff we add to them, especially when riding at speed. Also at speed noise becomes intrusive, unless you wear ear plugs. The wobble you experience could simply be you gripping the bars tight. Try ear plugs to see if that improves things for you and enables you to relax your grip.

Adding a True-Track kit, which I have used for many years now, will have a significant benefit IMHO. Even at modest road speeds it will improve the feel and feedback you get while riding, as your bike will point and respond better to commands, feeling more taught. It is well worth installing one for those improvements alone. I wouldn't install a T-T kit simply because I want to go fast! At speed those benefits continue, providing improved stability and confidence.

Hope that helps.
It helps. thank you. I had a wobble around 70 in curves in the past. I have done all of the checks and have since upgraded some items. Bike has about 5000 miles on front tire and 2000 on rear both commander 2's which look new. I maintain air pressure in tire and shocks. I changed out rear swing arm bushings , checked and rechecked alignment. Bearing are correct, no play or grinding Bike is solid. I know there was no issue with gripping bars to tight. bike feels great up to 108 to 109 I can back it down and wobble goes away as soon as it gets back in that speed range it comes back. I like the klock werks Idea about down force, I wonder if 15 lbs of down force [which is their advertised #] is enough to make a difference. I rarely get the opportunity to ride it that fast , but I come from a zx12 which 160 was a relaxed ride. I know they are two totally different rides. I never would expect this bike to mimic the 12. I am just trying to make this as solid as I can. one never knows when they may need to ride fast.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 09:04 AM
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I reckon 160 on a Harley dresser would be quite an achievement! I haven't studied the Klockwerks before, but their shield certainly looks worth trying. They are at least applying a little science to help improve our ride!

As for the True-Track, as I've mentioned they will improve the ride throughout the speed range. Even though the later bikes have an 'improved' rubber mount system, if you buy and fit one I suspect you will notice the change before you get into top gear for the first time.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 01:39 PM
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MKGuitar is correct. High speed "wobble" or decreased response to input at high speed is due to the fairing creating lift or up-force, slightly lifting the wheel up off the ground. I had this problem at speeds over 85MPH on a Suzuki with a Windjammer installed. Removed the windjammer and it ran well over 130MPH.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 01:55 PM
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this lift is a "known"- but often under-recognised effect of the mal-design of the batwing

the sharknose and FXRT/P fairing were designed in a wind tunnel- the batwing was made by stone-age man 3 weeks before the wheel.


the klockwerks advertises more downforce and that makes sense


the skipping front wheel can be a holepuckerer with a slight crosswind.

I have bikes which go alot faster than my touring bike- but they were made for it

mike
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 02:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mkguitar
this lift is a "known"- but often under-recognised effect of the mal-design of the batwing

the sharknose and FXRT/P fairing were designed in a wind tunnel- the batwing was made by stone-age man 3 weeks before the wheel.


the klockwerks advertises more downforce and that makes sense


the skipping front wheel can be a holepuckerer with a slight crosswind.

I have bikes which go alot faster than my touring bike- but they were made for it

mike
Mike is on target.

if you want to go that fast, you have to buy a bike built for it. The batwing fairing is not built for speed. Roadglide may be a better choice

If you have a desire to go 160, may need to keep a purpose built sport bike around.
 
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Old May 31, 2017 | 02:19 PM
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OP has said he doesn't want to do 160mph on his Glide - I simply made a joke about it.
 
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