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I have been doing some extensive research on the aftermarket options for the primary chain tensioner in the 09+ bikes.
I've been running a Hayden M6 tensioner in my 2010 Road Glide convert which had a 110" with Andrews 57H cams. When I removed it yesterday, I was surprised to see how worn the shoe was. It has some pretty deep grooves cut in by the chain.
Recently, I had the engine replaced with a Fuel Moto 126" Outlaw. Since it's got the S&S crankshaft, I am ditching my stock compensator (it has served me well for 42,169 miles) in lieu of an Evolution Industries 34T sprocket. With the larger displacement engine, my compensator starting to talk back to me when I shut the bike down.
Anyway, I read a lot about the original Baker Attitude Adjuster, and came across a thread where some folks were having issues with the shoe support bending.
I see now that Baker has revamped it and it's called the Armored Attitude Adjuster.
I have had the original Baker unit for a few years and have had no issues at all. If the upgraded unit is better then you should be fine. They are also offering the upgraded parts for those of us that have the original units. I ordered the upgraded parts today after replacing the IPB on my buddies 09 Road King.
When we pulled the primary cover off the stock chain adjuster had ratcheted up so tight there was very little play in the chain. I have heard about this happening but never seen it myself before. Pretty good odds this played a role in his bearing going bad. It took out the sleeve on the transmission output shaft the bearing rolls on as well.
I'm currently running a Baker DD7 which replaced my stock cruise drive at 135,000 miles, The transmission main shaft on the DD7 and the stock 6 speed Cruise Drive are the same diameter but Baker does not use a pressed on inner bearing race so the ID of their IPB and seal are smaller. If you pull the Main shaft inner bearing race you can use their High Torque Bearing and seal which is available in a kit from them for $40. The bearing they use is a NSK 6205DU sealed bearing which is available online from a multitude of suppliers. You would probably need to buy the seal from Baker. I have three or four of the seals on hand and purchase the bearings off E Bay pretty cheap. I do quite a bit of work on my friends bikes and would not pull an inner primary and not replace the bearing and seal.
You would need to pull the bearing race if you were to go this route. If not I'm not sure what else is available besides the stock HD bearing.
This is the puller you would need to remove the transmission main shaft inner bearing race.
Were there any symptoms, unusual noises or vibrations that caused you to go in and investigate the IPB? Thank you for the pictures!
I have just over 100K on my Ultra and I think my IPB is also shot. I hear noises with the bike in neutral with the clutch both released and pulled in. Noise seems to go away when I put the bike in gear. How did you press out the bearing? Did you use some sort of socket under the press on top of the bearing?
Originally Posted by BB59
after replacing the IPB on my buddies 09 Road King.
When we pulled the primary cover off the stock chain adjuster had ratcheted up so tight there was very little play in the chain. I have heard about this happening but never seen it myself before. Pretty good odds this played a role in his bearing going bad. It took out the sleeve on the transmission output shaft the bearing rolls on as well.
Here's what my Hayden M6 looks like now, after approximately 20-25k miles (never mind the strand or two of dog hair - my golden retriever is my shop helper!):
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