Bad Day
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 2,560
Likes: 279
From: North Cental Iowa
Well it actually looks better than I thought it might, I've seen some where the gerotors were broken. You could take the oil filter off & cut it open to see what's all in there, you might be lucky & have little or no damage to the internals. At this point I'd decide on who you're going to take it to, I think you should take to someone that can do the whole project. You have 2 very good recommendations, both Bob @ Razorback & Randy @ Hyperformance are very well respected & know what they're doing. I'm not sure if Bob can sleeve the lifter bore but he can do everything else that's needed, he's in Wi about 135 miles east of the cities. Randy is in DesMoines & I know that he can do everything, he can even rebuild the flywheel if needed. I'm not sure where you're located in MN but I would give them a call & tell them what you have & get their opinion. You could just take the engine out & take it to one of them & they can tear it down & let you know the best way to proceed, good luck.
Cruiser
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 219
Likes: 2
From: Dallas
The carnage to that oil pump indicates to me that you are going to have shavings thru out the motor. Also, in the last pic, I see a solid sprocket instead of a compensator and a final chain drive. Tells me the previous owner may have been aggressive to the bike. You already have the TB, injectors, and clutch for a 124lc....I'd go that way.
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 63
You have 2 very good recommendations, both Bob @ Razorback & Randy @ Hyperformance are very well respected & know what they're doing. I'm not sure if Bob can sleeve the lifter bore but he can do everything else that's needed, he's in Wi about 135 miles east of the cities. Randy is in DesMoines & I know that he can do everything, he can even rebuild the flywheel if needed. I'm not sure where you're located in MN but I would give them a call & tell them what you have & get their opinion. You could just take the engine out & take it to one of them & they can tear it down & let you know the best way to proceed, good luck.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 86
From: Centeral Coast, California
The carnage to that oil pump indicates to me that you are going to have shavings thru out the motor. Also, in the last pic, I see a solid sprocket instead of a compensator and a final chain drive. Tells me the previous owner may have been aggressive to the bike. You already have the TB, injectors, and clutch for a 124lc....I'd go that way.
Been following this thread, Angryman, and I think you're going about the "project" very wisely; no hurry about it and methodical.
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 63
On the phone with Advance Cycle Machining this morning. If I drop off my engine they will repair case, do Timken mod, check crank run out and true and reassemble the motor. For an estimated price depending on parts used to reassemble that I thought was pretty good. So I need to finish pulling the engine and get it to them. Looks like I am going with fix and repair mine instead of the S&S 124.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 646
From: Santa Clarita
On the phone with Advance Cycle Machining this morning. If I drop off my engine they will repair case, do Timken mod, check crank run out and true and reassemble the motor. For an estimated price depending on parts used to reassemble that I thought was pretty good. So I need to finish pulling the engine and get it to them. Looks like I am going with fix and repair mine instead of the S&S 124.
There should be no reason to be able to get all the shavings out of every nick and crevice in your original engine. For your oil pan, I'm going to throw something out there, and keep in mind that I've never actually looked at the inside of a Twinkie oil pan...but it's been described as having sheet metal baffles in it. And if it's like some I've seen wherein the baffles are attached to the aluminum pan with rivets, you might be able to grind down the rivet heads, detach the baffles, clean them out, then reattach with an excellent quality adhesive. After all, when one changes out the compensator, the oil deflectors use an epoxy adhesive to attach them to the inner primary cover, so obviously, there is an adhesive available that will withstand vibration and heat.
Otherwise, you can get a new OE oil pan or extra capacity pan...and you may have covered this already in this thread, I did not go back and re-read it all. But good on you for keeping on track with your original plan for your engine, OP...when you get done, you will have a powerplant that you know intimately, know that it's done right, and nobody else has mucked with the thang!
Thread Starter
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Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 230
Likes: 63
Yep...based upon your original intent, then being led here and there by well meaning yet well heeled respondents to this thread, you're doing exactly the right thing. Yet, guys are still wanting you to build a hot rod!!!
There should be no reason to be able to get all the shavings out of every nick and crevice in your original engine. For your oil pan, I'm going to throw something out there, and keep in mind that I've never actually looked at the inside of a Twinkie oil pan...but it's been described as having sheet metal baffles in it. And if it's like some I've seen wherein the baffles are attached to the aluminum pan with rivets, you might be able to grind down the rivet heads, detach the baffles, clean them out, then reattach with an excellent quality adhesive. After all, when one changes out the compensator, the oil deflectors use an epoxy adhesive to attach them to the inner primary cover, so obviously, there is an adhesive available that will withstand vibration and heat.
Otherwise, you can get a new OE oil pan or extra capacity pan...and you may have covered this already in this thread, I did not go back and re-read it all. But good on you for keeping on track with your original plan for your engine, OP...when you get done, you will have a powerplant that you know intimately, know that it's done right, and nobody else has mucked with the thang!
There should be no reason to be able to get all the shavings out of every nick and crevice in your original engine. For your oil pan, I'm going to throw something out there, and keep in mind that I've never actually looked at the inside of a Twinkie oil pan...but it's been described as having sheet metal baffles in it. And if it's like some I've seen wherein the baffles are attached to the aluminum pan with rivets, you might be able to grind down the rivet heads, detach the baffles, clean them out, then reattach with an excellent quality adhesive. After all, when one changes out the compensator, the oil deflectors use an epoxy adhesive to attach them to the inner primary cover, so obviously, there is an adhesive available that will withstand vibration and heat.
Otherwise, you can get a new OE oil pan or extra capacity pan...and you may have covered this already in this thread, I did not go back and re-read it all. But good on you for keeping on track with your original plan for your engine, OP...when you get done, you will have a powerplant that you know intimately, know that it's done right, and nobody else has mucked with the thang!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,926
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From: Utah
