Adding woods 222 cams and porting heads
Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 1,040
From: Seabrook, NH
I'm not an expert but I don't think you will get what you want without increased displacement (107) / compression and a cam followed by a great tune. You could probably leave the heads stock and if needed go back in later. I'm sure the experts here can help you if you let them pick the package.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 56,052
Likes: 88,710
From: Western South Dakota
You have a 96" or a 103"? Assuming a 96?
If you're going to port the heads, talk to a head porter. I would think you'd be looking at a different cam than the 222 if you have better flowing heads. Unless it's just very basic headwork you're after.
Can I ask why you're looking at holding off going big bore?
If you're going to port the heads, talk to a head porter. I would think you'd be looking at a different cam than the 222 if you have better flowing heads. Unless it's just very basic headwork you're after.
Can I ask why you're looking at holding off going big bore?
Why would he be looking at a different cam if he had better flowing heads?
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,917
Likes: 184
From:
My engine is a stock bore but it's a 103 but I have done what you are talking about. Look at my signature and it tells what has been done. If I wasn't going to bore the 96" engine to a 103 then I'd only cam it like Steve said. I will say that the the 37 or the SE 204's are a great option for cams in a 96" engine. I ran the 204's for over 20,000 miles on my 2010 SG and it ran great.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,642
Likes: 1,985
From: Cleveland Zoo
Actually, I also was thinking the 222 would be a good bolt in, no head work needed cam. But if I was to get head work and compression raised a bit, it would allow for more cam like the 777.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 86
From: Centeral Coast, California
rob: You're getting some intelligent suggestions, some opinions, and some condescending responses that serve no purpose. Seriously.....call the guys at Fuel Moto ((920) 423-3309)
Or call Hillside ((315) 495-6650)
These guys will give you solid advise based on years of building experience for people ALL over the country, including high altitude. Neither one will lead you down a road that'll leave you unhappy, and neither one will try and up-sell you beyond what your budget can handle.
Good luck!
Or call Hillside ((315) 495-6650)
These guys will give you solid advise based on years of building experience for people ALL over the country, including high altitude. Neither one will lead you down a road that'll leave you unhappy, and neither one will try and up-sell you beyond what your budget can handle.
Good luck!
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 6,863
Likes: 3,727
From: St. Charles, MO
The question was simply; has anyone done head work on a motor that is only getting cams done? I am refearing it and puting a set of cams for more torque. I dont need big bore kits on this bike, or lots of h.p i have a bike for that. I want lots of torque on this one. With the streetglide i am wearing out compicators and wollowing out clutch hubs, all that h.p is rough on a daily ridden bike, i want to leave it a 96" as long as i can
FWIW, my "build plan" is cams, lifters, and pushrods; then heads; then pistons.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 3,903
Likes: 1,122
From: 48.067222,12.863611
And the 222 likely won't utilize the added flow of ported heads.
Reading AND comprehension seem to be a struggle for you.
Last edited by rhuff; Oct 10, 2017 at 11:40 AM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
I kept my engine 96" and got some intake porting done on the heads, new springs and hardware with the valves given a "performance" grind. Already have the Andrews 48h cams, which my engine machinist stated are "mild", which they are. I rebuilt the cylinders with new rings on like new take off stock cylinders and pistons with a light powerhoning of the cylinders to glaze bust (even though they were basically new). I avoided going bigger bore because I didn't want to spend the extra money for boring or replacing cylinders and pistons with a kit and having the heads machined for compression releases. Also the machinist I used stated head work is more advantageous than boring. He stated stock twin cam 96" (and 103" I believe are the same port size?) heads flow better through the exhaust than intake, which causes some of the charge to go out the exhaust during the overlap. He designed a seat cutter with slightly different angles to reduce some of that, and opened up the intake port for better flow.
At low end it runs about the same but as soon as you throttle up you can really feel it pulling better and faster. I am very happy with it, with basically just head work.
At low end it runs about the same but as soon as you throttle up you can really feel it pulling better and faster. I am very happy with it, with basically just head work.
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Cruiser
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 132
Likes: 2
Here's my dyno sheet. The info at the bottom is incorrect, I'm not running a 2-1, it's a fuel moto XXX headpipe with their crossover and E-series mufflers. The little curleque around 4200 rpm is the clutch slipping. I just replaced that today with a Bernett extra plate set, no slip no more.
Last edited by Roomer; Oct 10, 2017 at 02:56 PM.
Tourer
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 482
Likes: 36
Do your homework ,figure out what you want to end up power wise and talk to a few of the porters on the forum. The 222 with a street port done on the heads would work fine..... but a cam with a intake closing in the 38-42 would be my choice and move the power over to the middle a little more, than cap the build off with a e-pipe or a trap 2-1 to keep the bottom end strong is what I would do