So I have run the auto tune through six (6) iterations and have noticed the changes are now down to one (1) and (2) percent. Most of which are in the cruise range. The other ranges see the odd change depending on how hard I ride, which is not very much. Given this information and the minor changes now, I'm told the tuner has done its job in attaining the specified AFR. Autojet maps what I can tell are mostly set to 13.2 AFR and 13.7 AFR in the cruise range respectively. To be honest, I don't see a major difference in performance other than perhaps a smoother cruise. The pipes aren't quite as loud in that range either, sort of mellowed out. Prior to the auto tune install, the WOT, would have a slight low drone coming from the carb as if its was getting way to much. That has subsided as well. I guess its doing its job. Incidently plugs are looking different as well than before. Nice grey colour instead of dark. I haven't had a chance really to see how the fuel mileage is as through the interations I was told to use as much throttle positions as possible. Imagine that, being to told to hog on the throttle. Was it worth it? Doesn't matter, I have it now and it cost me a bit but I don't think I have to worry much now about the motor running its best.

Just FYI.................

Randy

2003 Road King Classic
Kerker slip ons /w fishtails
Vance and Hines True Duals
SE Air Cleaner
Power Commander 5
Auto Tuner
S&S 510 Cams

 

Autotune sucks. Get a dyno tune and you will feel improvment.

 

I'm not understanding what you posted or I read it wrong...... You said it has a carb? ... what autotune module did you use for a Carb? I don't see how a "module" can tune a bike with a carb...

I've seen AFR gauges that assist you in getting to your AFR target range, but you need to do the adjusting/changing jets/needles/ mixture screws, etc and check your work with the gauge...

Sounds to me like you were auto tuning an EFI bike.... if so, you are usually done when the changes get below 4%... at one percent, the tune you have is matched pretty good to your bike. If you started out with a really good base map, you should be fine...

but even a good base map with an auto tune won't be as good as a dyno tune, by a competent tuner... finding a competent tuner is the key...

 

LOL........I wasted $400 on a supposed reputable Dyno tuner while running a PCV and Autotune unit. I ditched both and bought a Power Vision and my bike has never run better. I have no use for a Dyno or those overpriced and egotistical tuners. Just my opinion......and yes I know, just like lower orifices, everybody has one so don't waste your time trying to educate me.

 

Hattitude, I meant throttle body. Carb lol...im old school and refered it to being a carb

randy

 

I was hoping that was the case... I'm new to EFI tuning, but couldn't for the life of me conceive of how an auto tune would work on a carb...

Sounds like you have the map dialed in... but if you know or find a really good dyno tuner, you'd be surprised how well they can make a bike run...

Problem is, the really good ones are the minority.... and a poor to bad tuner can really mess up a tune...

 

Well I thought long and hard whether to go to a dyno (closest was Detroit Michigan, I'm in Canada) or buy the auto tuner. Given I already had a Power Commander 5 unit, I thought the tuner was more of a wise decision. This is a Road King, stock bore and heads but with cams and the bolt ons. It will never ever be tire shreader....ever.....so I felt the smart money was to go with the tuner. After all its a touring bike anyway, but I do like the idea that should I go to larger bore and/or heads, I wont have to re-dyno.

randy

 

I am unaware of a good dyno tuner in my area (within a days ride)...

So I do the PowerVision and a map from FuelMoto or DynoJet... I also have the AT Pro... I've tuned both my bikes that way.. one Stage III and one Stage II... while they surely are not track ready... They are really good running street bikes...

 

Fuel Mileage update. I'm on my 8th iteration with the tuner and today I want for a 100 mile run. I drove rather sensible, no different than what I drove all summer long. I didn't hog on it. I respected the speed limits...well just a little over and came back and fueled up. Prior to the tuner, I would get at best 43 Mpg (Canadian Galllon). Today even with the AFR set to 13.2 and 13.7 for cruise, I pulled 51 Mpg. The AFR setting in cruise is nothing close to what some consider 14.0+ AFR but it appears that efficiency of the motor has greatly increased.

There are many reasons one might consider one of these and there are just as many that suggest not to, but if nice smooth roll on power, better fuel efficiency and an all around better running motor is a want then these devices work. Just for the record, the fuel I am potentially saving is not a lot in dollars and cents and would take years and years to pay for itself in said savings, the fact that the motor runs better which can be passed onto less stress and strain can be worth it as well in longevity. Just my $.02

randy

 

I also have a Power Vision, and a good dyno tune made my bike run way better than the auto tune did.