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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 08:57 AM
  #11  
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I am going to try to find at local NAPA or other auto parts store. I think I have enought clearance. Might lay the bike on its side.
This appears to be the correct size: SUPERCRAZY M15 X 1.5MM Oil Pan Drain Plug Thread Repair Tool Kit SC0087C
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 09:01 AM
  #12  
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Patience ... Patience ... Patience
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 10:44 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Throttle1971
I have notice the passed few times I changed my oil the drain plug was not turing smoothly. Today it just kept turning and when I pulled it out I had threads on the drain plug. What are my option to fix without removing the oil pan? 2007 Street Glide


Thanks.
Time for a Baker Plus One oil pan or re and re your original by removing it and having it welded and re-drilled/tapped and dont use to much force next time.
Or a used one from a wrecked bike?
Rob
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 11:12 AM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Iceman24
Unless you want to tear motor out of bike & apart...here's the answer: http://www.timesert.com/

Also, IMO, don't use a torque wrench on oil pan plugs. Grew up on farm, changed oil on many types of motorized equipment/vehicles (combines to minibikes) and never in my 55-yrs have I ever stripped a single drain. Get the tight "feel" and you're good. No need to torque...you see the results.
Never seen or heard of a timesert before, but now that I have I love it. Thanks for bringing it to my attention. I've used heli-coil before but this seems more practical and easier to do.
 
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Old Oct 28, 2017 | 03:07 PM
  #15  
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The Timesert is a great option and is ( generally ) easier for a novice to use.
 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 11:50 AM
  #16  
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never owned a torque wrench .... worked on a lot of things thru the years.... true that you just get the feel for right tight after awhile... but yes patience is needed...
 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 05:42 PM
  #17  
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So this is my temporay fix. I found a Dorman brand Oil-tite self tapping piggy back drain plug. Sku# 65208 - 1.2" x 20. I gradually worked in the drain plug (little left, little right and so on) until it was tight against the pan, removed applied JB weld to be safe and reinstalled and let it dry over night before adding engine oil. Of course I removed all the metal shavings I could and thourghly cleaned the hole.
Thank you to everyone for your advise.


If i get bored this winter I might go ahead and install an oversize oil pan!!
 
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Old Oct 29, 2017 | 06:45 PM
  #18  
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Just me, but on a bike if there’s a issue with the oil plug threads and the pan can be replaced, that’s my option. Just don’t want to run the risk of that sucker coming loose on the road.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 07:02 AM
  #19  
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I have also always just followed the "snug" method on oil drain plugs. On my last oil change on the bike though I noticed the plug was barely on finger tight, it had definitely loosened some. I'm now doing "snug and a bit." I've always wondered why with oil drains they can't use some sort of no-tools bung, something that turns in 1/2 a turn then lock it down with a small expansion lever etc.
 
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Old Oct 30, 2017 | 07:10 AM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by T Man
I have also always just followed the "snug" method on oil drain plugs. On my last oil change on the bike though I noticed the plug was barely on finger tight, it had definitely loosened some. I'm now doing "snug and a bit." I've always wondered why with oil drains they can't use some sort of no-tools bung, something that turns in 1/2 a turn then lock it down with a small expansion lever etc.
http://www.fumotousa.com/

Never looked for a Harley application, but they're out there.
 
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