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Hello, I’m looking for some info, I ride a 2005 FLHTPI (police bike) my problem is the my voltage gauge is fluctuating from 14 volts to 10. I’m not sure of the issue, I have done a stator test, no continuity from either pole to ground, resistance between poles is .1 ohm and the ac volts are 49.1 VAC at 2000 rpm and up to 72 VAC at 3000 rpm. I bought a new regulator but it is testing the same as the one I took off. I’m puzzled, does anyone know how to check the amperage output of my stator? I am assuming that its a 38 amp but not sure if it was ever changed out because I bought the bike used. Is the AC output in the acceptable range for a 38 amp stator? I don’t want to fry the regulator I just bought. I am hoping it may have all been just bad connections from the stator to the regulator but any advice would be welcomed. I did check the charge at the battery with a volt meter, it was flucuating as well.
To me, your symptoms could indicate either a stator or regulator. Since you've started checking voltages I'd compare them to the values listed in the charging troubleshooting stickie in the electrical section of this forum. I'd also suggest following that sticky in order so nothing is missed.
Other things I would check would be all wiring connections. Remember that all wires have two ends and both need to be checked. Grounds, starter connections, battery connections and even mounting bolts for the regulator should be checked as well. You can also pull the derby cover and smell the primary fluid. A burnt smell is a sure indication of a burnt stator coil. It's also possible that the gauge itself could be failing but since you said voltage at the battery fluctuates as well I'd think that is less likely.
Thanks for the replies, I’ll compare the values in the charging troubleshooting section, I still have a couple months to figure things out, it’s not riding weather where I am, still plotting snow.....
Going off the numbers you supplied I'm thinking the stator is ok. I'm assuming you checked all 3 phases?
You can use a clamp type meter to check amperage. (you would have to put your current meter in series to check amperage which means breaking a connection open). Just know that to get an accurate reading with the clamp type you can only clamp 1 of the 3 wires coming from the stator at a time.
Given the outcome of that...after re-reading your post I'm thinking you bought a new VR but haven't installed it yet? Worried you might fry it. You checked it with your meter (ohms) and it's the same as your original?
I'm leaning to the VR. I've battled an issue all last season where occasionally on startup my voltage stays at 10v. I've done all sorts of the same testing procedures as you have and the others have suggested...but what I found is when it happens I (literally) reach down and whack the VR with something...and up comes the voltage to the proper 14v mark.
Although I do not have a fluctuating issue..once it comes up to 14v it will usually stay there until (occasionally) the next start.
Update
Thanks for the info everyone, I did change out the VR, checked and cleaned all electrical connections did a volt test at the battery and all seems to be charging as it should be! Fingers crossed, I let it run for a bit and no voltage fluctuation. As posted earlier I can't take it for a road test for a couple more months so I'll know for sure after a few miles are put on up here.
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