Needed Maintenance + Upgrades advice for 09 FLHTCU
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Joined: Nov 2016
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From: Charleston, SC
Needed Maintenance + Upgrades advice for 09 FLHTCU
So I know ya'll just wanna spend my money and I can't blame you. I am looking for things I can upgrade at the same time as the needed maint. in an effort to save some $ on the hrly rates. So here is the needed maint.
#1 failing Compensator
#2 leaking Clutch Cable
#3 front Brake pads are dead
#4 20k mile service
I know i want to take my bars to 12in-14in, which since I need a new clutch cable anyway I might as well go ahead an go for it.
With the Compensator dying on me I am trying to decide between the Screaming eagle replacement or the Baker compensator possibly with the attitude adjuster as well.
With all that going on I am thinking Cams for a bit more bottom end for getting up some mountain roads this fall.
Now all ya'll spend my money. I wanna keep it below 4k closer to 3k.
Thanks
#1 failing Compensator
#2 leaking Clutch Cable
#3 front Brake pads are dead
#4 20k mile service
I know i want to take my bars to 12in-14in, which since I need a new clutch cable anyway I might as well go ahead an go for it.
With the Compensator dying on me I am trying to decide between the Screaming eagle replacement or the Baker compensator possibly with the attitude adjuster as well.
With all that going on I am thinking Cams for a bit more bottom end for getting up some mountain roads this fall.
Now all ya'll spend my money. I wanna keep it below 4k closer to 3k.
Thanks
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,432
Likes: 290
From: FL
How many miles on your bike?? I know you need a 20k service but are you at 20, 40, or 60k miles?? Personally, if you know your comp is going out, I'd go with a baker comp and tensioner. Check your battery first though, a weak battery will give signs of a failing compensator.
If your going with longer bars and already need a clutch cable, check out the Burley cable packages. They give you everything needed for the length of bars your installing in plus sizes increments (+4, +6 and so on), very good product. They include clutch, throttle, brake and electrical.
If you do change your cams, selecting a cam size will be your next challenge. I would consider changing your inner cam bearings as well. I'd upgrade to the continuous roller type, not caged. May as well change the inner cam tensioners while your in there; there are two tensioners, one on the outside of the cam support plate between the crank and the cam and one on the inside which provides tension to the chain going around both cams.
Brake pads are easy but be sure to do a thorough caliper service and cleaning at the same time. Ensuring those pistons are clean and go in and out evenly are key to good braking performance and long brake pad life. You should consider doing a brake flush at the same time.
I could go on but the most important part is doing a thorough inspection of your entire bike. Good luck!
If your going with longer bars and already need a clutch cable, check out the Burley cable packages. They give you everything needed for the length of bars your installing in plus sizes increments (+4, +6 and so on), very good product. They include clutch, throttle, brake and electrical.
If you do change your cams, selecting a cam size will be your next challenge. I would consider changing your inner cam bearings as well. I'd upgrade to the continuous roller type, not caged. May as well change the inner cam tensioners while your in there; there are two tensioners, one on the outside of the cam support plate between the crank and the cam and one on the inside which provides tension to the chain going around both cams.
Brake pads are easy but be sure to do a thorough caliper service and cleaning at the same time. Ensuring those pistons are clean and go in and out evenly are key to good braking performance and long brake pad life. You should consider doing a brake flush at the same time.
I could go on but the most important part is doing a thorough inspection of your entire bike. Good luck!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 185
From: Mountain West, Big Sky Country
Comp get the baker unit, while you are in there check and change inner primary bearing if it looks off.
bars, magnum lines for brake, clutch cable I would go barnett
I would also decide since you have exhaust at least loose to change out clutch cable if you wanted something different.
cams, just do it but do it correctly, if your 09 is a 96, woods 222s or Andrews 48, if you think you are going 103 or 107. Woods 555 or Andrews 57, or any of the other brand name cams. Also replace bearings o rings cam shoes even plate and pump if necessary, last change lifters, go S&S.
brakes, I would use the stock pads, change out to floating rotors and pickup a brake flush regardless of ABS OR not.
if you have front wheel off, if your close to needing a tire, I would get one and change bearings.
clean everything.
since you have front wheel off and fairing apart for bars, may as well go ahead and service front forks, I'd go progressive mono tubes and either chrome or black out the front end
bars, magnum lines for brake, clutch cable I would go barnett
I would also decide since you have exhaust at least loose to change out clutch cable if you wanted something different.
cams, just do it but do it correctly, if your 09 is a 96, woods 222s or Andrews 48, if you think you are going 103 or 107. Woods 555 or Andrews 57, or any of the other brand name cams. Also replace bearings o rings cam shoes even plate and pump if necessary, last change lifters, go S&S.
brakes, I would use the stock pads, change out to floating rotors and pickup a brake flush regardless of ABS OR not.
if you have front wheel off, if your close to needing a tire, I would get one and change bearings.
clean everything.
since you have front wheel off and fairing apart for bars, may as well go ahead and service front forks, I'd go progressive mono tubes and either chrome or black out the front end
Last edited by bigskyroadglide; Feb 18, 2018 at 06:21 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 373
Likes: 90
From: australia
Also remember if you go with a cam upgrade,, you will need a tuning device , and a tune ... there is 6-800 dollars of you budget gone ....
To keep your budget in check, I would look at a cheap set of SE255 cams... I had them in my 2009 flht ,, just the thing for what your after , (mountain riding etc) ....
Pity you or your mates aren't handy on the tools ,, as compensator / cam upgrade is really not that daunting , (especially with u tube etc)... A good project that would be satisfying , learn about your bike ,,, and save a lot of bucks .....
To keep your budget in check, I would look at a cheap set of SE255 cams... I had them in my 2009 flht ,, just the thing for what your after , (mountain riding etc) ....
Pity you or your mates aren't handy on the tools ,, as compensator / cam upgrade is really not that daunting , (especially with u tube etc)... A good project that would be satisfying , learn about your bike ,,, and save a lot of bucks .....
Intermediate
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 49
Likes: 1
I run the Baker comp & chain aduster on my 09 FLHR plus their primary cover so I can service everything without pulling the whole cover. Pricey but worth it IMO. Comp has held up great to my 107" with Andrews 67H cams.
I'm happy with my Twin Power floating rotors + Speed Bleeders for fluid flushes. Factory rotors aren't true floating rotors & I had one warped enough to cause light brake drag with less than 15k mi on the bike. These Twin Powers are a great value IMO. Important to flush that DOT4 fluid every 2 yrs & stainless Speed Bleeders make it quick & painless for me.
Stock suspension really sucked in 09. Pulled my fork tubes & sent to Race Tech for gold valve emulators & new springs. Huge improvement - no more brake dive & eats up the road. Rear air shocks felt even worse then so ditched them for Bitubo (Italian) coil over shocks. Another great value IMO.
Barnett stainless braided clutch cable has been up to the task with my heavy clutch spring with no leaking. Can't say the same for Motion Pro - leaked a couple hundred miles after install. Barnett has a soft metal spring that can slide up & down the cable that you position as an isolator where the cable wants to rub the cases. Seems counter intuitive but it's soft enough that it plants itself against the case & doesn't move. Other brands lacking this will eat themselves alive with their stainless braid rubbing into your case at the same time. All the vibration causes the leak & damage.
Your cush drive will probably be shot with 20k on the clock. I went to Alloy Art's green super cush at my last rear tire change. Should hold up a lot longer than the stock rubber gizmo.
Just my experiences as I've gone through mine over the years similar to your line of thinking - do what makes sense when you've got it apart anyway.
I'm happy with my Twin Power floating rotors + Speed Bleeders for fluid flushes. Factory rotors aren't true floating rotors & I had one warped enough to cause light brake drag with less than 15k mi on the bike. These Twin Powers are a great value IMO. Important to flush that DOT4 fluid every 2 yrs & stainless Speed Bleeders make it quick & painless for me.
Stock suspension really sucked in 09. Pulled my fork tubes & sent to Race Tech for gold valve emulators & new springs. Huge improvement - no more brake dive & eats up the road. Rear air shocks felt even worse then so ditched them for Bitubo (Italian) coil over shocks. Another great value IMO.
Barnett stainless braided clutch cable has been up to the task with my heavy clutch spring with no leaking. Can't say the same for Motion Pro - leaked a couple hundred miles after install. Barnett has a soft metal spring that can slide up & down the cable that you position as an isolator where the cable wants to rub the cases. Seems counter intuitive but it's soft enough that it plants itself against the case & doesn't move. Other brands lacking this will eat themselves alive with their stainless braid rubbing into your case at the same time. All the vibration causes the leak & damage.
Your cush drive will probably be shot with 20k on the clock. I went to Alloy Art's green super cush at my last rear tire change. Should hold up a lot longer than the stock rubber gizmo.
Just my experiences as I've gone through mine over the years similar to your line of thinking - do what makes sense when you've got it apart anyway.
Last edited by gbax79; Feb 18, 2018 at 11:56 PM.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 56,052
Likes: 88,721
From: Western South Dakota
So I know ya'll just wanna spend my money and I can't blame you. I am looking for things I can upgrade at the same time as the needed maint. in an effort to save some $ on the hrly rates. So here is the needed maint.
#1 failing Compensator
#2 leaking Clutch Cable
#3 front Brake pads are dead
#4 20k mile service
I know i want to take my bars to 12in-14in, which since I need a new clutch cable anyway I might as well go ahead an go for it.
With the Compensator dying on me I am trying to decide between the Screaming eagle replacement or the Baker compensator possibly with the attitude adjuster as well.
With all that going on I am thinking Cams for a bit more bottom end for getting up some mountain roads this fall.
Now all ya'll spend my money. I wanna keep it below 4k closer to 3k.
Thanks
#1 failing Compensator
#2 leaking Clutch Cable
#3 front Brake pads are dead
#4 20k mile service
I know i want to take my bars to 12in-14in, which since I need a new clutch cable anyway I might as well go ahead an go for it.
With the Compensator dying on me I am trying to decide between the Screaming eagle replacement or the Baker compensator possibly with the attitude adjuster as well.
With all that going on I am thinking Cams for a bit more bottom end for getting up some mountain roads this fall.
Now all ya'll spend my money. I wanna keep it below 4k closer to 3k.
Thanks
New cam job will run $1500
$4 K will get eaten up pretty fast.
Last edited by lionsm13; Feb 19, 2018 at 03:18 PM.
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