ED I fotgot to ask in my last reply about fork oil and cleaning can I use parts cleaner or what do you recommend spraying it down with? Also I have to get gaskets ordered do you recommend or prefer any certain gasket brand or kit? For the top end.? Cometic and James seems to be popular brands I definitely don’t want to be doing them again...My local dealer has a full top End kit for me to pickup at $110. I just noticed that there are different thicknesses that’s why I’m asking. Thanks.

So the fork oil was how we initially verified sumping with dealers when TC came out and case sealant was getting into the sump. That was what that comment was about - if it was clogged, the fork oil wouldn't come out the allen plug hole when added through the crank sensor hole. Then, with the bike still assembled we would have them blow compressed air into the allen hole and it would temporarily unclog the sump and they would get oil out. That worked because the cam plate was in and the only place for the air to go was back into the flywheel compartment through that little hole. Since you are all disassembled - the fork oil has a slightly different purpose.

I would use a non-chlorinated brake cleaner and spray the inside of the case - it should then be running out of the allen plug hole. That's what will get the stuff off the case surface.

With the bike level, nearly everything will come out if the sump hole is open. If you wanted to pour a bottle of fork oil (or any light oil) through to make sure it comes right back out that's cool. At this point if the brake cleaner comes out, the light weight oil would remove any puddled cleaner as well as verify the hole will flow oil as opposed to a solvent. Fork oil was easy because dealers had it in stock and it comes in very light weights. With oils on the market now, you could pick up a quart of 0W-something and it would work. You just don't want to be pouring in cold 20w-50 because it will take forever to come out. The key is if the hole is open, it will be coming out pretty quick - now that Max posted a pic of it you have an idea of what it will take for oil to flow through it.

I have always used H-D gaskets and Cometic gaskets with great success.

To the comment about it getting into the crank bearings - I'm not concerned about that as they are pressure fed - they are not sucking oil. Also, there isn't much side play between the thrust washers for anything to really get in. However, if they get sprayed down, make sure to pout oil over the lower rod journals and pin before buttoning it up.

If fibers are on the rods, it will just end up in the sump. No way they could get between a wrist pin and rod in this situation.

My biggest concern is getting as much out so as little as possible returns to the pump and the plate. It sucks when the oil pressure relief valve gets stuck open by debris.

Hope this helps clear a little up.

Yes that helps out major. Ihad a couple minutes to mess with it today Made sure that the crank hole was clear. By using air . It’s good..I also hooked up a suction hose and sucked everything that I could get out of the bottom of the crank case I got no debris whatsoever. I used a clear hose so I could watch it coming through.I haven’t sprayed it down yet wanted to make sure before I did that I wasn’t using something that would cause an issue.I have one other question. I have a clear shot and can pull out those piston Jets. I’m going to do that also. And make sure they are clear. Also like I said I’m going to go ahead and pull the Cam plate and the other jug and make sure we are 100% clean. Thank you so much for all your help you have no idea How grateful I am.

If the engine did not run and build enough pressure to actually circulate through the crank case there’s absolutely no way that I can see those jets will be clogged at this time just an FYI

The piston jet warning was about if you had debris in the engine post filter, ran it and it bypassed in the plate/filter and it got into the oil in the system.

I don’t think you need to take the jets out but if it makes you feel more comfortable go ahead. Just do not drop those little screws. If it were me and it had not been run I would leave them.

It really would’ve had to physically run for a bit to get that much oil picked up into the plate etc.

Definitely did not start up. Just want to be double sure on everything I think really what happened after seeing where it was laying the flywheel spun it around there it got caught and just settled in that sump. And the little bit of debris I did get out before was probably where It initially got caught by the fly wheel .And maybe where I was turning it over by hand it may have grabbed or scraped the top of it And cost a little more debris.Once I pulled the heads off and I could see it you could spin the crank and it wasn’t even touching it.Now that I have a perfect understanding of it thanks to you I’m feeling really confident about it being OK. Once again another thank you for your time.I will definitely keep you posted I’m sure I’m gonna have another question or two before I get it put back together.

Guys I’m trying to get together a parts list. Since I did pull the cylinders completely off and the Pistons out of the cylinder is it true that I need to hone the cylinders and replace the rings? I need to get everything ordered so I can get the thing back together. I would appreciate any input on this also.thanks

30k on the bike. I know I could kick myself it was late and so worried about the darn rag I just pulled the cylinder completely off. the cylinders look fresh a lot of cross hatching.i have a feeling someone has recently had this top end off.my service manual won’t be in until Wednesday. I’m trying to research as much as I can and be prepared with everything necessary.

Just wanted to update I pulled the second cylinder went ahead and pulled it completely off also. Ordered a new ring kit . Pulled the cam plate and oil pump .got everything cleaned up and ready to put it back together once the rings arrive.