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I had the bike out Saturday for about a 40 mile ride and everything went great. I stopped to eat and when I jumped back on the bike the idle was very low (500RPM) and the bike was chugging and backfiring a little. I had to limp home on the bike and it felt like it was missing. When I got home the bike now struggles to idle and stay running.
As a background, The bike is a 2000 EG EFI with a PC5, air cleaner and V&H 2-1. Engine temp sensor, CPS, and battery have been replaced recently. There is spark in both cylinders and plug wires were replaced last year. there are no codes and the only historical code was the CPS, and that is why it was replaced.
I have a funeral for my best friend next week and I have to have the bike ready. The dealer cannot assure that I will have it by then so I need to fix it myself. Any suggestions or guidance is appreciated.
Have you tested the charging system?
Did you put a digital voltage meter on battery with bike OFF, then cranking and then at high idle?
Reason: A problem with the charging system could present in the same manner.
Have you looked inside the gas tank for trash?
Reason: a loose piece of tank liner could be blocking fuel flow.
Have you looked at the power commander for wire damage or the CRANK position sensor for wire damage?
Have you looked at the plug wires?
Reason: the plug wires run really close to fuel tank edge and sometimes they get a cut from tank edge thus causing weird things to happen like a plug not firing at times.
Thank you everyone for the support. I ended up dropping it off to the dealer to ensure that I had it for the funeral. prior to taking it in I replaced the engine temp sensor and everything became worse. I believe the sensor was bad and the idle was adjusted from the previous owner to cope with the bad sensor. The dealer finally came back and said the intake seals were bad and the idle had to be adjusted. I tested the seals myself and could not get them to show any signs of being bad, but I may have rushed through it. I should get a call tomorrow and hopefully it will be done. Thanks again and I will update everyone tomorrow on the what the dealer says.
Well the dealer finally called me and said the head gasket is bad so they could not fix the hot/cold idle. They wanted $900 to do the gaskets and I just don't want to pay that. For $700 I can get the S&S big bore with all the gaskets and change everything myself.
Would it be worth it to go carb now? How much are we looking to change? also what happens to all the sensors on the motor? I also wanted to thank everyone for all the support! RIDE ON!
I can tell you I converted my 2001 a few years ago and could not be happier.
Cost depends a bunch on the route you go. I bought:
'messaged' carb with the cruise arm - $300ish
Used intake manifold and new gaskets - $50ish
Adjustable ignition - $275ish
New wiring harness - $110ish
Pingel petcock and adapter kit - $100ish
Most things I read told me I could use the original throttle cables, but I had trouble getting the adjustment right so I replaced those as well. I am not running anything close to stock in the motor, so I needed the adjustable ignition, and the carb works flawlessly. I also bought a wide band O2 sensor and gauge for the dash to help me tune it.
If you are close to stock, you can do a used ignition and carb and save some cash there. You also can wire it using what is already on the bike if you wish - I just chose the easy way out and did the plug and play new harness.
So after some time away from the bike I decided to start fiddling with it. The dealer showed me that the head gasket was sucking air but no fluids were coming out. I pulled the heads and the gasket didn't show any signs of a blow gaskets. What could be the cause of the air leak form the head gasket? I would imagine if the head was warped I would have the problem, but then how did i develop the warp?
I think I will go carb next year. I just spent enough on the big bore and heads lol. I figured if I had to take it apart, no better time to build some power. Thanks!
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