Brake Pulsation
Road Warrior
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,521
Likes: 185
From: Ft Myers FL
My experience is...you have dirty rotors....take some soapy water and a bunch of brillo pads and wash both sides of the rotor.....i bet the pulsation will go away......
please report back if anything that was suggested here works...people want to know...
please report back if anything that was suggested here works...people want to know...
Last edited by giacomo56; May 23, 2018 at 05:30 PM.
Thanks too everyone who responded.
Great suggestions and I learned a few things.
Over the weekend a buddy is coming over with his Dial Indicator.
In the meantime, I'll clean the rotors to make sure the dial indicator runs smooth.
I'll polish the caliber pistons the best I can, brakleen and a cotton rag.
Be back with the results next week.
Thanks again, Larry.
Great suggestions and I learned a few things.
Over the weekend a buddy is coming over with his Dial Indicator.
In the meantime, I'll clean the rotors to make sure the dial indicator runs smooth.
I'll polish the caliber pistons the best I can, brakleen and a cotton rag.
Be back with the results next week.
Thanks again, Larry.
Cruiser
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 159
Likes: 22
From:
More than likely that rotor is warped to cause pulsation....Too much heat is the cause.... over breaking or stuck/sticky caliper pistons, master cylinder causing brakes to drag are the most usual possibilities..and even it may be the rubber brake hose breaking down or damages inside...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 5,270
Likes: 3,367
From: Idaho Panhandle
In my limited experience, two types of pulsing are prone to stock rotors. Both caused by hot brake pads against a stopped rotor. For instance, riding down the rattlesnake grade like your life depends on it and stopping at Boggans Oasis for an ice cream. Hot pads rest against one spot, not good, should have ridden to Lewiston and stopped for a beer
Pulse number 1 is glazing. Common with racers. It can be removed by Emory cloth or fine sandpaper, spinning the rotor and applying the grit on a flat even surface.
Pulse number 2 is so much heat, the rotor warps. Either reface or replace.
Pulse number 1 is glazing. Common with racers. It can be removed by Emory cloth or fine sandpaper, spinning the rotor and applying the grit on a flat even surface.
Pulse number 2 is so much heat, the rotor warps. Either reface or replace.
Ok just for a recap:
Bought a Street Glide with pulsating front brakes.
Went to Summit Racing and bought two HardDrive rotors left and right.
Bought EBC V-Pad Semi-Sintered #TR-610590 online.
Replaced the parts. Cleaned the new rotors with Brakeleen and emery cloth, also lightly did the pads with just the emery.
Everything was clean and new.
Went down my street to the first stop sign same pulsation.
Nothing changed. Went a few more miles same. Went home and replaced the pads with the old ones. Same results.
A friend came over with a dial indicator, could not jury rig it up to give consistent results.
What I did now removed one caliber at a time place an aluminum angle between the pads, rap it in rags then wire tie to the frame. (See Photos)
Then took the bike for a ride.
Both sides pulsated, not as much with the two connected.
Basily that told me nothing. I was hoping one side would stop.
One thing I did notice that the inboard pistons move first without the outboard moving. Same in both calibers.
I did wedge a screwdriver and press the pad against the inboard calibers which left the outboard piston free. They moved in and out no problem.
I don't think that's an issue. I also cleaned the pistons. They came clean with just the Breakleen, just dust.
Now I know I still haven't checked the runout in the rotors but old and new no change?
One more thing!!!
When I bought the bike the owner had it financed through Harley Credit.
So at the transfer, the dealer asked if I wanted to buy a Harley Warranty which I did.
Soooo... if I put original parts back on will the dealer fix it?
I really don't want to keep buying parts that may or may not fix the problem.
Thanks, Larry
PSI uploaded 2 photos?
Bought a Street Glide with pulsating front brakes.
Went to Summit Racing and bought two HardDrive rotors left and right.
Bought EBC V-Pad Semi-Sintered #TR-610590 online.
Replaced the parts. Cleaned the new rotors with Brakeleen and emery cloth, also lightly did the pads with just the emery.
Everything was clean and new.
Went down my street to the first stop sign same pulsation.
Nothing changed. Went a few more miles same. Went home and replaced the pads with the old ones. Same results.
A friend came over with a dial indicator, could not jury rig it up to give consistent results.
What I did now removed one caliber at a time place an aluminum angle between the pads, rap it in rags then wire tie to the frame. (See Photos)
Then took the bike for a ride.
Both sides pulsated, not as much with the two connected.
Basily that told me nothing. I was hoping one side would stop.
One thing I did notice that the inboard pistons move first without the outboard moving. Same in both calibers.
I did wedge a screwdriver and press the pad against the inboard calibers which left the outboard piston free. They moved in and out no problem.
I don't think that's an issue. I also cleaned the pistons. They came clean with just the Breakleen, just dust.
Now I know I still haven't checked the runout in the rotors but old and new no change?
One more thing!!!
When I bought the bike the owner had it financed through Harley Credit.
So at the transfer, the dealer asked if I wanted to buy a Harley Warranty which I did.
Soooo... if I put original parts back on will the dealer fix it?
I really don't want to keep buying parts that may or may not fix the problem.
Thanks, Larry
PSI uploaded 2 photos?
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,102
Likes: 51,367
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
I'm new to HD and a few months ago purchased a 2009 Electra Glide Ultra Classic. I've experienced something similar... but I don't think it's related to the rotors.
I have a theory... The bike has anti-lock brakes. I've noticed I sometimes put more braking pressure on the front or rear brake and I notice pulsations. If I then apply more pressure to the other brake... the pulsation goes away. So, for me... I think it's related to the way I apply the brakes. Coming from a bike without anti-lock brakes... I've never had this issue before.
Check it out... maybe I have a screw or two loose. But if it's something like that, it's easier/cheaper to adjust your riding habits then chasing down a non-existent issue.
Ride Safely!
John.
I have a theory... The bike has anti-lock brakes. I've noticed I sometimes put more braking pressure on the front or rear brake and I notice pulsations. If I then apply more pressure to the other brake... the pulsation goes away. So, for me... I think it's related to the way I apply the brakes. Coming from a bike without anti-lock brakes... I've never had this issue before.
Check it out... maybe I have a screw or two loose. But if it's something like that, it's easier/cheaper to adjust your riding habits then chasing down a non-existent issue.
Ride Safely!
John.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 20,616
Likes: 4,440
From: anacoco, la
you may not like harley's abs, but if he is engaging the abs on his front brakes, if he didn't have it he would be locking up the front wheel. and you know what has a good chance of happening next after locking up the front.....
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,102
Likes: 51,367
From: Niles Canyon Ca.
The bikes I've ridden with ABS have had a far to low a threshold for the front abs kicking in to worry about locking up, I seriously doubt he was anywhere near a locking situation.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,324
Likes: 56,887
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
"Variation in parallelism" is more than likely the cause of most brake pulsation problems ... Variation in parallelism is the difference between measurements taken at various spots across the swept area of the brake rotor when the pads contact. Thicker in one spot, more effective braking, thinner in another spot less effective ... While a warped rotor ( best compared to a warped record on a turn table exhibited by the tone arm going up and down ) can cause pulsation, generally the culprit is variation in parallelism. I just put new rotors on my 2009 FLHTCU while I was putting tires, tubes, rim liners and wheel bearings. After 35000 miles the pads were still in excellent condition. I should note that many of those miles were with me pulling a Bushtec trailer and two up riding.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 646
From: Santa Clarita
OP, I had the very same issue with my front brakes on my ABS-equipped 2011 FLHX. Installed the floating rotors from the P&A catalog, no more pulsation. At all. Plus, the P&A rotors were twenty bux less each than the OE semi-floating rotors.
Worked for me.
Worked for me.