Brake Pulsation
Brake Pulsation
Just looked a 2009 Street Glide when I applied the front brake it pulsated.
Bought it anyway and was expecting to buy rotors and pads, and I did.
Well, the pulsation is still there, with the new parts.
Setting on a jack the wheel is true and does not wobble.
Rotors run true. Test was done by eye, not a dial indicator.
Don’t think a caliber would do it?
Any educated guesses?
Bought it anyway and was expecting to buy rotors and pads, and I did.
Well, the pulsation is still there, with the new parts.
Setting on a jack the wheel is true and does not wobble.
Rotors run true. Test was done by eye, not a dial indicator.
Don’t think a caliber would do it?
Any educated guesses?
Last edited by ultrax; May 23, 2018 at 12:15 PM. Reason: Spelling
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 86
From: Centeral Coast, California
Assuming you installed the rotors properly (and I am assuming you did), I think the OEM rotors suck. I replaced my front rotors and was without pulsing for about a week. Seriously. It's minute, so I ignore it, but I do think the quality is **** poor on Harley rotors.
That's my best guess!
That's my best guess!
Tourer
Joined: Apr 2018
Posts: 297
Likes: 180
From: SE Mass
I don't think you can really tell much about rotor runout by eye. You'll start to feel the runout anywhere from .005 - .010". That being said, I agree with gipper about the quality of the OEM rotors. I bought a used 2015 RK from a dealer and the pulsing was so bad that the front end would bounce up and down during moderate stops. The dealer replaced the rotors and pads and within 1000 miles, the issue returned. I ended up putting on Galfer rotors and I've had no problems for over 5000 miles now.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,310
Likes: 6,328
From: Honah Lee
Someone has done a brake job probably and just pushed the dirty pistons in. When doing new pads, be it bike or car, push them out just a touch with something slightly thinner than the pads and shoe shine them with a cotton rag. Then, push them in. Rebuild calipers on third pad set for sure.
Usually, Brake Pulsation is too hard a pad on dirty rotors. Most think it is warped rotors and that will do it but it also causes a bump in hand brake or foot lever. Pulsation is usually the grab and release on uneven rotors from a buildup or out of parallel wear. You should indicate your work to make sure they do run true. Dial indicator is pretty cheap at Harbour Freight.
Usually, Brake Pulsation is too hard a pad on dirty rotors. Most think it is warped rotors and that will do it but it also causes a bump in hand brake or foot lever. Pulsation is usually the grab and release on uneven rotors from a buildup or out of parallel wear. You should indicate your work to make sure they do run true. Dial indicator is pretty cheap at Harbour Freight.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 23, 2018 at 01:22 PM.
Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 80
From: NW Illinois
Harley puts the crappiest rotors on their bikes. I've warped the ones on my '11 Street Glide 3 times now.
The originals lasted just 4k miles, I even tried using an indicator and a deadblow mallet to straighten them. Didn't help, still shuddered.
Dealer replaced those under warranty. They were still ok at 60k when I swapped wheels for some low mileage 2014 Enforcers with discs. At the same time, I put on new semi-sintered EBC pads. Those pads didn't brake as effectively as the stock HD pads, they required much more pressure to work the way I was used to.
Because I sometimes brake hard on occasion, the Enforcer rotors warped after 3k miles. I replaced both pads and rotors with genuine HD and they worked great again.
Just last week, after about 20k+ miles, I'm feeling some front end shudder under braking. I brake just as hard, at times, on my other bikes and never have this problem. I suppose I'll have to go with some high dollar Lyndall, EBC, or Galfer rotors.
The originals lasted just 4k miles, I even tried using an indicator and a deadblow mallet to straighten them. Didn't help, still shuddered.
Dealer replaced those under warranty. They were still ok at 60k when I swapped wheels for some low mileage 2014 Enforcers with discs. At the same time, I put on new semi-sintered EBC pads. Those pads didn't brake as effectively as the stock HD pads, they required much more pressure to work the way I was used to.
Because I sometimes brake hard on occasion, the Enforcer rotors warped after 3k miles. I replaced both pads and rotors with genuine HD and they worked great again.
Just last week, after about 20k+ miles, I'm feeling some front end shudder under braking. I brake just as hard, at times, on my other bikes and never have this problem. I suppose I'll have to go with some high dollar Lyndall, EBC, or Galfer rotors.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,042
Likes: 86
From: Centeral Coast, California
Someone has done a brake job probably and just pushed the dirty pistons in. When doing new pads, be it bike or car, push them out just a touch with something slightly thinner than the pads and shoe shine them with a cotton rag. Then, push them in. Rebuild calipers on third pad set for sure.
Usually, Brake Pulsation is too hard a pad on dirty rotors. Most think it is warped rotors and that will do it but it also causes a bump in hand brake or foot lever. Pulsation is usually the grab and release on uneven rotors from a buildup or out off parallel wear. You should indicate your work to make sure they do run true. Dial indicator is pretty cheap at Harbour Freight.
Usually, Brake Pulsation is too hard a pad on dirty rotors. Most think it is warped rotors and that will do it but it also causes a bump in hand brake or foot lever. Pulsation is usually the grab and release on uneven rotors from a buildup or out off parallel wear. You should indicate your work to make sure they do run true. Dial indicator is pretty cheap at Harbour Freight.
Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 80
From: NW Illinois
Another thing, I don't believe they're actually warping so much as they're wearing unevenly. If you check them with a micrometer, you'll probably see a few thousandths difference in thickness at different places around the disc. Not sure why they wear that way, crappy material? I just checked my old ones on a surface plate, almost no warp at all, but I could feel a step in different areas. Checked with an indicator and found between .002/.003 on one side and almost no wear on the opposite side of the thickness. I'm sending them out for grinding to see if they'll work ok afterwards. There's almost .020 of thickness to play with before you get to the minimum.
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,310
Likes: 6,328
From: Honah Lee
My experience has shown rotors are done at 30k with Harley's soft but metal filled pads. Rotors are steel. ..003 out of parallel is going to pulse like crazy.
Never heard of anyone Blanchard grinding (OEM surface finish) or surface grind them. Around here, the shop time would cost more than new rotors. Brand new take offs are on eBay all the time for not much more then postage
Never heard of anyone Blanchard grinding (OEM surface finish) or surface grind them. Around here, the shop time would cost more than new rotors. Brand new take offs are on eBay all the time for not much more then postage
Last edited by Jackie Paper; May 23, 2018 at 01:21 PM.
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Tourer
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 280
Likes: 80
From: NW Illinois
I've called around, found a couple of places that can grind them. One of them actually used to do them as production for Harley. I'd prefer double disc grinding but the setup is more trouble than they're worth. So Blanchard grinding it'll have to be. A pair of new discs are over $200, grinding will be under $100. If it works, great. If not, at least I'll know what I have to do next.
Cruiser
Joined: May 2018
Posts: 161
Likes: 30
From: NW Georgia
I'm new to HD and a few months ago purchased a 2009 Electra Glide Ultra Classic. I've experienced something similar... but I don't think it's related to the rotors.
I have a theory... The bike has anti-lock brakes. I've noticed I sometimes put more braking pressure on the front or rear brake and I notice pulsations. If I then apply more pressure to the other brake... the pulsation goes away. So, for me... I think it's related to the way I apply the brakes. Coming from a bike without anti-lock brakes... I've never had this issue before.
Check it out... maybe I have a screw or two loose. But if it's something like that, it's easier/cheaper to adjust your riding habits then chasing down a non-existent issue.
Ride Safely!
John.
I have a theory... The bike has anti-lock brakes. I've noticed I sometimes put more braking pressure on the front or rear brake and I notice pulsations. If I then apply more pressure to the other brake... the pulsation goes away. So, for me... I think it's related to the way I apply the brakes. Coming from a bike without anti-lock brakes... I've never had this issue before.
Check it out... maybe I have a screw or two loose. But if it's something like that, it's easier/cheaper to adjust your riding habits then chasing down a non-existent issue.
Ride Safely!
John.