neutral issue still

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May 26, 2018 | 10:24 AM

leachman

Thread Starter

Road Captain

Joined: May 2006

Posts: 543

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From: clinton CT

neutral issue still

After running my 08 ultra for a while and it is hot, the bike will not go into neutral unless I shut it down. The bike will go into neutral if coming to a stop but not if you come to a complete stop. I have changed fluid in primary and tranny with proper amount using Harley's primary/tranny fluid. I used to use Redline shockproof heavy duty but was told that it was harder on either the clutch or tranny when used(from dealer), however when I used it I don't remember having this issue. I have also adjusted the clutch at the basket and at the lever to spec at about 3/4 turn out. shifting is beautiful while riding and even as I coast to a stop putting into neutral. I would like to be able to get off the bike with it running to unlock shed at night and ride in but fighting to go into neutral is a pain. At this point I am thinking of bringing it to the dealer as maybe something is going on with clutch or tranny. I would appreciate any help.

May 26, 2018 | 10:28 AM

Ed Ramberger

Grand HDF Member

Joined: May 2015

Posts: 3,570

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From: Then Wisconsin, now North Carolina

Blip the throttle when trying to get it into neutral. If you have any clutch engagement, it's not going to want to go in sitting at a stop. Primary fluid shouldn't be heavy. See how it goes as the new fluid gets into the plates. Try going to 1/2 turn off seated on clutch rod adjustment.

Last edited by Ed Ramberger; May 26, 2018 at 10:43 AM.

May 26, 2018 | 10:40 AM

jmeyer58

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Joined: Oct 2007

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From: NW Suburburbs of Chicago

As much as I don't want to start a "which fluid is best" debate I have been using Syn 3 and it substantially reduced the effort to find neutral for me.

May 26, 2018 | 10:41 AM

Uncle Peepers

Road Warrior

Joined: Jan 2006

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I recently had the same problem on a 2012 RK I'd just bought. Experiment with re-adjusting the clutch to change the release point. The more turns out on the adjusting rod, the closer to the grip the friction zone moves. The closer to "lightly seated" the adjusting rod is, the farther from the grip is the friction zone.
It's been awhile, and I can't remember which way I moved the release, or I'd tell you; but this method definitely worked.

May 26, 2018 | 11:00 AM

Veekness

Elite HDF Member

Joined: Nov 2013

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From: Santa Clarita

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmeyer58

As much as I don't want to start a "which fluid is best" debate I have been using Syn 3 and it substantially reduced the effort to find neutral for me.

I'm with ya on this...but I'll trot this out. A couple of months ago, I installed Barnett Kevlar plates in my clutch. The literature indicated that using Formula + would cause dragging, etc, and suggested that using ATF would make for a much smoother action. Mercon would provide a firmer, more positive feel, Dexron would be smoother. I put in the latter, and I tellya what...when the bike is cold, it just 'snicks' into gear, and gets better when it warms up. Neutral is much easier to find, not that it was ever a problem for me.

OP, that might provide a quick fix for ya, but if it doesn't, were it me, I'd replace the clutch plates. I used Barnett Kevlar, but you do the research for yourself and decide, should ya decide to go that way. If you're absolutely CERTAIN that the clutch is adjusted correctly, I'd say a warped plate, either the steel or abrasives, is your culprit. When I replaced mine, I got the kit that omitted the steel plates, since I was confident that they were good...but in your case, I'd get the complete set.

May 26, 2018 | 01:12 PM

dyna rider

Club Member

Joined: Dec 2007

Posts: 4,192

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From: Knoxville, Tn

Finding Neutral

Spring 2014, I bought a 2011 Road Glide Ultra with a stock 103 cu in engine. It had less than 10k miles on the speedo and was in great shape. The previous owner had put custom true duals on the bike and before trading it in, he put the stock mufflers back on the bike. I bought the bike in the spring and rode it heavily into the summer. When the weather got hot. Well long story, when the bike got real hot, you couldn't find neutral at all. I tried adjusting the clutch, putting heavy gear oil in the trans, taking the lower leg fairing off all in an effort to cool the bike down I finally bit the bullet and bought a new set of pipes and mufflers. I bought V & H headers with high output mufflers. I gained a lot of low end torque that was missing and never had anymore problems finding neutral. Harleys' 103s tend to run hot anyway, but if their exhaust is constipated, it really compounds the problem. I traded that bike in for a M8 RGS and have never looked back. My RGS is the coolest running engine I have ever ridden on a Harley.
Good luck with yours

May 27, 2018 | 06:04 AM

Heritage07

Road Warrior

Joined: Sep 2006

Posts: 1,323

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From: NJ

Since I had duel shifter arms on my previous Heritage, I use the same method on my limited. Whether coming to a stop or already stopped. I just tap (quick pop) the rear shifter with my heel and hit neutral 99% of the time. Much easier an more accurate than trying to use you toe to gently upshift to neutral in my experience.