MY Bike will not move

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Jun 25, 2007 | 07:40 AM

#11

curmudgeon

Cruiser

Joined: Apr 2006

Posts: 241

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RE: MY Bike will not move

That's what you get for starting a project on Sunday night ; )

Jun 25, 2007 | 08:14 AM

#12

Taterdog

Outstanding HDF Member

Joined: Oct 2006

Posts: 2,183

Likes: 1

From: Lenexa, KS (KC)

RE: MY Bike will not move

Quote:

ORIGINAL: jdtest

Crisis over. Thanks.

Jd, let us know what the problem was. Only way we learn.

Jun 25, 2007 | 09:05 AM

#13

choochoo

Banned

Joined: Jan 2007

Posts: 2,301

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RE: MY Bike will not move

I use a commercially available offset boxend wrench. Most good auto parts stores carry these as an individual wrench.
Added plus withis is you can see the nut and allen bolt that you're tightening.
I have complete set myself, but then I was a mechanic full time for 30+ years.

Jun 25, 2007 | 10:42 AM

#14

RonH

Road Captain

Joined: Mar 2006

Posts: 743

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RE: MY Bike will not move

On the Fix My Hog DVD they don't use a special socket or anything. Once the adjuster is set, they just torque down the outer lock nut. That's what I've done and had no problems.

Jun 25, 2007 | 12:42 PM

#15

Domestic Violence

Stellar HDF Member

Joined: Jun 2006

Posts: 2,457

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RE: MY Bike will not move

the problem was that he didnt start the bike up

Jun 25, 2007 | 01:21 PM

#16

jdtest

Thread Starter

Cruiser

Joined: Apr 2007

Posts: 150

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From: North Carolina

RE: MY Bike will not move

I followed the sure fired directions posted on the site. In doing so I pulled the clutch lever in which allowed me to over adjust the bolt. So then it did not work the first time I just kept adjusting the bolt not noticing that when I was turning the bolt the center plate was moving. So after walking away from the bike for about 15 minutes as to not cause any damage to the bike or my garage. I was coached through the procedure via the phone and it all worked out.

Jun 25, 2007 | 02:29 PM

#17

Gutman

Road Master

Joined: Nov 2006

Posts: 1,227

Likes: 3

From: Central Illinois

RE: MY Bike will not move

Quote:

ORIGINAL: RonH

Here's the method I use - and got when someone here on the forum posted it. Works every time for me:

CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT

Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...

1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.

2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.

3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.

4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.

You should be good to go .

Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.

**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.

Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.

This "Sure Fire" method, lesspulling in the lever and keeping tension on it is awesome. I also call it the "Factory Recommmended Pocedure" as read in the Service Manual. Pulling in the lever will cause the end to come out. Don't mess with it. The wrench is sure fire. I have one just like it, works great.