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I followed the directions in the manual for clutch adjustment. Now when I put it in gear and let out the clutch bike will not move. I have tried 7-8 more times to fix it still nothing. Now I have a 2007 paper weight.
Pull of the tranny side cover on the right side (on yours it will be the thing that says "six speed" and check the ball and ramp assembly and where the cable hooks to it. Unfortunate thing is that you will have to drop your exhaust to get to it.
Just guessing, but wonder if you ran the adjustment bolt too far in. Run it out again and thenback in until you feel the slightest resistance. Then follow the instructions for clutch adjustment.
Here's the method I use - and got when someone here on the forum posted it. Works every time for me:
CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT
Here is an almost fool proof method for clutch adjustment. It takes the guesswork out of the "feel" for the adjuster.
Once you have opened up the derby cover and are ready to proceed...
1)Collapse the adjuster on the cable sleeve all the way.
2)Pull the lever against the bar and hold it there with slight force.
3)Turn the pushrod adjuster bolt in while holding the lever against the bar lightly until it starts to force the lever away for some distance. (Do this more than once to get the feel). While keeping light pressure on the lever back the adjuster bolt out just until the lever touches the bar again and then another little bit, about 1/2 turn , then lock it.
4)Adjust the cable freeplay at the lever for 1/16" free play.
You should be good to go .
Always adjust the clutch on a cold bike for best results.
**It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.Using this method, you can "feel" where the lever is going to grab with a little practice.
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
ORIGINAL: RonH
Buy yourself a cheap 11/16 deep well socket and weld a nut on top of it. This makes the perfect tool for the adjuster lock nut. You can then use an Allen wrench inside the socket and a wrench on the nut you have just welded on. Makes it a lot simpler.
Not to hijack the thread but that's a great idea for anadjusting screw locknut "special tool"!
Pulling the lever still makes the plates move. So i adjusted it until It felt as if it bottomed out then I backed it off anywhere forn 1/2 to a full turn as I have attempted to doi this about 20 times by now. the I adjust the clutch cable so there is still like a 1/16th free play. after this is done I can pull the lever about three quarters in and then it get s really hard to pull.
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After trying and trying with no luck I had to just walk away as my next move would have been to start throwing tools and breaking things.
i JUST USED VISE GRIPS ON THE DEEP SOCKET. FIGERED ONLY NEEDED A LITTLE TORQUE FOR JAM NUT?
JD - JUST DID MY FIRST CLUTCH ADJ MYSELF EVER AND HAD TO 'PRACTISE" A FEW TIMES TO GET THE FEEL AS STATED. IT WAS A PIECE OF CAKE AFTER THAT BUT 7 TO 8 TIMES! I WOULD PULL THE DERBY COVER OFF AND FIRST CHECK TO SEE IF THE PIN MOVES FREELY . NEVER HEARD OF SOME "TRACK" GETTING "DE-RAILED" ON THE OTHER SIDE OF TRANNY?
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