Front Wheel Bearing
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Nor Cal
It's in your FSM ...(which may be described differently, but with the same result)
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 11,176
Likes: 2,487
From: Nor Cal
I guess you haven't read many of my bearing posts 
...in fact one addresses the JIMS and Pit Posse instruction Errors explicitly
With very few exceptions (and maybe none on OE wheels), the 1ST/TOP quote is correct...The 2nd quote would be INCORRECT...because it does NOT apply to Sportsters
...in fact one addresses the JIMS and Pit Posse instruction Errors explicitlyWith very few exceptions (and maybe none on OE wheels), the 1ST/TOP quote is correct...The 2nd quote would be INCORRECT...because it does NOT apply to Sportsters
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/wheel...l#post14935502
Last edited by ChickinOnaChain; Jun 10, 2018 at 11:20 PM.
Club Member
Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Nor Cal
Thanks. Looking at this VT102 from Pit Posse, some sites state it won't work on my 2008 FLHTCU nor my 2012 FLHTCU (Ultras),
what am I missing? Will it fit these bikes?
what am I missing? Will it fit these bikes?
I think the issue on 09-later Touring wheels (they have an integral IDS Hub), is that there can be some interference between some Tool "Bridges" and the Hub.
The pics below (using a different Enforcer Rear) show that it's close, but should work fine on your 2012, but be prepared to "Clearance" your tool if needed.
** Note for others...Additional considerations needed for use with FRONT "Spoke Mounted" (or "Open") Rotors wheels such as "Impellers" and "Enforcers"
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Reading the CVO forum I ran across this....have not seen this mentioned here in any bearing threads I've read here.
What is the reason for installing a specific side first? Thanks.
What is the reason for installing a specific side first? Thanks.
Grease...anti-seize, I used to use grease, and to be honest haven't seen a difference, but I've read that anti-seize is supposed to protect dissimilar metals better. Both help the bearing slide in easier without galling the wheel bore.
I've seen Harley bearings with very little grease, and in other applications (including jet aircraft!) have opened a few with no grease at all in them. Part of the problem is the modern engineering take on grease for ball bearings; they say all it needs is a thin film of grease so that's what some companies are putting in their bearings and when some of that thin film gets sprayed into corners, there isn't enough left to lube the *****. Wheel bearings need to have enough grease to refresh the ball film, like a reservoir of grease to use as needed, and it will need it. They don't have to be packed full, I do about 3/4th's, but once upon a time they were packed full and it never seemed to hurt anything. And the bearings rarely failed...
Last edited by Imold; Jun 10, 2018 at 07:08 PM.
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Joined: May 2010
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From: SWMO
When I pull a wheel for any reason, I pop the outer seal off each wheel bearing to check it, both grease and how it feels turning it with a finger. If the grease is still clean and the bearing feels smooth, with a premium brand or even AllBalls, I'd feel ok running them up to 3 tire changes. If/when I got 15,000 miles out of tires, probably put new bearings in with the 3rd tire. 4 tires could put you over 50,000 miles, and bearings aren't expensive enough for me to think about running them over that.
All the used bikes I've bought needed new tires, even when the tread was good, they were too old to risk. I put new bearings in with the first tire change to be safe, but most of them were gritty, dirty grease, and a couple of them had little grease left. Sealed bearings shouldn't get in that condition, I think they were all pressure washed; as someone already said in this thread, bad idea. It flushes grease out, pushes dirt in. I've also replaced brand new bearings that came in a new aftermarket Harley wheel, had just a little of that translucent/clear crap in them, and plastic ball spacers.
All the used bikes I've bought needed new tires, even when the tread was good, they were too old to risk. I put new bearings in with the first tire change to be safe, but most of them were gritty, dirty grease, and a couple of them had little grease left. Sealed bearings shouldn't get in that condition, I think they were all pressure washed; as someone already said in this thread, bad idea. It flushes grease out, pushes dirt in. I've also replaced brand new bearings that came in a new aftermarket Harley wheel, had just a little of that translucent/clear crap in them, and plastic ball spacers.
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Joined: Apr 2007
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From: South Florida
In 2016 I had a front wheel bearing explode on my 2009 Road Glide (at 80 mph), now two years later I started hearing the same noise from the front end so I took it to a dealership to have it checked. Bad again so I missed my ride from Arkansas to Michigan while its being fixed. My question is have any of you guys experienced similar problems and if so, did you figure out a root cause? In my mind a wheel bearing shouldnt fail after 7000 miles.
I am concerned it happend a 2nd time in such short order. I am thinking maybe the bearing was not properly packed. <-- Did HD do it or someone else?? Or possibly whomever packed it used the wrong grease for the bearings.
Really sux man. so sorry.............
BuzzCap7
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Joined: Jul 2011
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From: Frozelandia, Minnysota
Mobil, Amsoil, Chevron, Shell, I've used them all and all of them worked fine, all have good reputations. I used a lot of Shell and Mobil in aircraft, too, they have some real top product, and some of it's really expensive for wheel bearings. Some of that house brand stuff in auto stores and Walmart might be good stuff from major companies that's just rebranded, but I don't risk it on wheel bearings.
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From: Good roads, cold beer
I guess you haven't read many of my bearing posts ...in fact one addresses the JIMS and Pit Posse instruction Errors explicitly
With very few exceptions (and maybe none on OE wheels), the 1ST/TOP quote is correct...The 2nd quote would be INCORRECT...because it does NOT apply to Sportsters
...in fact one addresses the JIMS and Pit Posse instruction Errors explicitlyWith very few exceptions (and maybe none on OE wheels), the 1ST/TOP quote is correct...The 2nd quote would be INCORRECT...because it does NOT apply to Sportsters
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Joined: Oct 2011
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From: Nor Cal
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Last edited by multihdrdr; Jun 11, 2018 at 09:30 AM.