SE Compensator
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
SE Compensator
Yup, another compensator thread/question.
2008 road glide with 36k miles. Hard clunk/grind on hot starts only.
Bought a SE compensator and read this thread https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...w-pics-12.html
but all of the pictures are gone.
Does anyone have the pictures saved by chance?
Is there a final answer on what fluid to run, and if to grind grooves in the new sprocket or not?
what else do I need to buy, if anything?
i have a big trip coming at the end of the week so I need to get this done, and done right. Any help, advice, pictures, suggestions and tips etc is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
2008 road glide with 36k miles. Hard clunk/grind on hot starts only.
Bought a SE compensator and read this thread https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...w-pics-12.html
but all of the pictures are gone.
Does anyone have the pictures saved by chance?
Is there a final answer on what fluid to run, and if to grind grooves in the new sprocket or not?
what else do I need to buy, if anything?
i have a big trip coming at the end of the week so I need to get this done, and done right. Any help, advice, pictures, suggestions and tips etc is greatly appreciated! Thank you!
Thread Starter
|
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 1,253
Likes: 482
From: MA
are there different versions? Only one my dealer had that fit an 08. 07-08 are different than the rest apparently. The rotor is part of it.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 38,309
Likes: 6,326
From: Honah Lee
You even say it's only hot restarts.
Non OEM tuners, a few little drips of the fuel injectors, week battery all contribute to these long stroke two cylinders kicking back and clunking on start up.
The compensation fingers can get rough and sound like crap at idle. But that is all it is. Noise.
Think about it. If your compensator was so weak it did what you say, what do you think it would do if you rolled off the throttle very quick and a 1000 lbs of you and bike tried to wind it backwards?? Or hit the throttle pretty hard going into second.
Now mine will clack if I really hit it hard up thru the gears but that is normal. If it was set so hard, it did not clack, it would not do it's job.
When, you start a FI bike, hit and hold the starter button till it's running. If you let off, you are going to get long starts. If it really is hot, open the throttle just a fraction.
My guess is your battery is low on starting amps. Put a DC meter on your maintenance charger leads. When hot and cranking, voltage should be above 9.8 or so.
Last edited by Jackie Paper; Aug 5, 2018 at 10:42 PM.
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 646
From: Santa Clarita
Because they have fallen for the tin man coolaid.
You even say it's only hot restarts.
Non OEM tuners, a few little drips of the fuel injectors, week battery all contribute to these long stroke two cylinders kicking back and clunking on start up.
The compensation fingers can get rough and sound like crap at idle. But that is all it is. Noise.
Think about it. If your compensator was so weak it did what you say, what do you think it would do if you rolled off the throttle very quick and a 1000 lbs of you and bike tried to wind it backwards?? Or hit the throttle pretty hard going into second.
Now mine will clack if I really hit it hard up thru the gears but that is normal. If it was set so hard, it did not clack, it would not do it's job.
When, you start a FI bike, hit and hold the starter button till it's running. If you let off, you are going to get long starts. If it really is hot, open the throttle just a fraction.
My guess is your battery is low on starting amps. Put a DC meter on your maintenance charger leads. When hot and cranking, voltage should be above 9.8 or so.
You even say it's only hot restarts.
Non OEM tuners, a few little drips of the fuel injectors, week battery all contribute to these long stroke two cylinders kicking back and clunking on start up.
The compensation fingers can get rough and sound like crap at idle. But that is all it is. Noise.
Think about it. If your compensator was so weak it did what you say, what do you think it would do if you rolled off the throttle very quick and a 1000 lbs of you and bike tried to wind it backwards?? Or hit the throttle pretty hard going into second.
Now mine will clack if I really hit it hard up thru the gears but that is normal. If it was set so hard, it did not clack, it would not do it's job.
When, you start a FI bike, hit and hold the starter button till it's running. If you let off, you are going to get long starts. If it really is hot, open the throttle just a fraction.
My guess is your battery is low on starting amps. Put a DC meter on your maintenance charger leads. When hot and cranking, voltage should be above 9.8 or so.
But you do what you think is right, OP.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 2,216
Likes: 102
From: Central Illinois
Yes, grinding on hot starts usually IS the compensator. The original comps would fully compress those weak assed springs on the compression stroke during cranking then recoil back throwing the starter drive out of the ring gear then back again, causing the grinding. It's why it's hot starts where this happens since the heat soaking makes it a bit harder to turn over. If your bike still has the original compensator, it needs replaced regardless. Those early comps would break and wear out quickly. They were pure junk, why H-D didn't find that out during development is beyond me. Mine did a grinding when hot starting once. After the SE it's never done it since and it has been hotter than hell on some starts.
In some cases the starter drive gets cracked from those junk early compensators causing it to throw out so it is possible it will need replaced. Also check the starter ring gear for missing teeth.
In some cases the starter drive gets cracked from those junk early compensators causing it to throw out so it is possible it will need replaced. Also check the starter ring gear for missing teeth.
Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 173
From: Watertown, CT
After replacing the comp and the battery on my '10 RK I still had the hot hard start, From a poster on this site I learned to start the engine instantly after turning on the key .I usually turn on the key and hit the start and run buttons at the same time with my thumb. No more problems!