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I just had to replace the bolt marked #1 in diagram. Went to hardware store and was able to find a replacement. At first thought 1" was perfect but found out the hard way that 3/4" was what I needed. The 1" when tight put the bolt against primary so on down shift it wouldn't move. Its all changed and so much stiffer and little to no rattle.
Fits all stock 5-speed Big Twin models from 1980-2006 (except 2006 Dyna)
F150, good catch! You made me mess myself here at work...
I had the Baker rear trans lever placed a couple years ago on my 08 SG before I started doing all my own all entailing maintenance. I went into a cold sweat somehow thinking that I might hafta tear open my inner primary within 2 weeks of having just replaced my compensator with a Baker and clutch pack with a carbon Barnett.
Jeff at Baker explained to me that the shifter pawl is a different diameter and that what many do is spread out the lever to fit and it works perfectly and that there is no difference in the lever angles. So I can go on about my day and find something else to obsess about making perfect.
F150, good catch! You made me mess myself here at work...
I had the Baker rear trans lever placed a couple years ago on my 08 SG before I started doing all my own all entailing maintenance. I went into a cold sweat somehow thinking that I might hafta tear open my inner primary within 2 weeks of having just replaced my compensator with a Baker and clutch pack with a carbon Barnett.
Jeff at Baker explained to me that the shifter pawl is a different diameter and that what many do is spread out the lever to fit and it works perfectly and that there is no difference in the lever angles. So I can go on about my day and find something else to obsess about making perfect.
I had a '12 street glide that had this issue.
replace the socket head capscrew with a regular grade 8 hex head bolt. Then before installing use a vise or hammer and pinch the gap shut. It was a BITC H to get it perfect but eventually I got it to slide on with virtually zero play then loctited and tightened the PI$$ out of the bolt. Did it with the primary installed. Was tight until the day I sold the bike 17k later.
So I took it apart again and closely inspected the shaft and lever. I don't think the lever is pot metal. Make that, it isn't pot metal.
Splines on both pieces looked good. I noticed the bolt does not engage the groove in the splined shaft. It should, in my opinion.
I took the lever and pinched it in a vise, measuring the gap with a feeler gauge. When the gap closed a couple thousandths I test fitted it on the shaft, tightened it, looked good.
I installed it on the bike, tightened the f*** out of it, seems good to go. You can bet I'll be scoping that area out on every pre-trip inspection.
Also, I appreciate the advice offered by everyone here.
Last edited by Joe from So Cal; Aug 14, 2018 at 12:32 AM.
It's actually the inside shift lever, not the foot levers, that I can't get tightened up on the shaft.
Common issue. Mine failed coming home from a week long trip, luckily I was able to make it home. Took the bike in and it was replaced under warranty. The extra play in the shifter is the beginning of problems. Get it replaced before you can't shift at all.
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