Loose shift lever
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 222
Likes: 188
From: Iowa
Just changed mine out last week. Also noticed the shift lever on the transmission was sloppy to and it would not tighten up, removed bolt and replaced with grade 8 , 5/16 x 24 x 1, wrenched it down and good to go. Also used blue loctite.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1,320
From: Good roads, cold beer
What exactly did the new bolt do that the original bolt did not?
my bolt looks fine, unclear how replacing bolt would help, esp if the splines on the lever itself are chewed up a little (not that that is the case but....)
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,323
Likes: 56,885
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
This is where I;m at (2012 Ultra). After reading this thread, went out and did some more disassembly and inspection (50k on bike), lever on the shaft is a little sloppy (about to post another thread on it).
What exactly did the new bolt do that the original bolt did not?
my bolt looks fine, unclear how replacing bolt would help, esp if the splines on the lever itself are chewed up a little (not that that is the case but....)
What exactly did the new bolt do that the original bolt did not?
my bolt looks fine, unclear how replacing bolt would help, esp if the splines on the lever itself are chewed up a little (not that that is the case but....)
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1,320
From: Good roads, cold beer
The original ( existing ) bolt doesn't want to torque any further ... Removing the old bolt, chasing the threads ( not using a tap ) with a new bolt and a bit of lubricant. Cleaning the threads with a bit of brake clean followed by a new bolt with a bit of Loc-Tite torqued to specs will generally ( I've done this with great success on several scooters , even out on the road ) tighten it up and give extended service
Def worth a try. Dont want to pull entire primary to replace if I can help it.
Road Master
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 1,229
Likes: 426
From: Northern NY
As Uncle Larry said, get a new hex bolt, grade 8 will work. Put a small sae flat washer under the head, lube or anti seize on both sides of the washer. Blue loc tite on the threads and tighten it down tight. If that doesn't work, new shift arm. You can trim some off the slot of the arm making it slightly wider thereby allowing it to clam a little better. The arm is aluminum, the splined shaft is steel. The arm will wear before the shaft. Only in an extreme case would you have too address the shaft.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 4,377
Likes: 646
From: Santa Clarita
This is where I;m at (2012 Ultra). After reading this thread, went out and did some more disassembly and inspection (50k on bike), lever on the shaft is a little sloppy (about to post another thread on it).
What exactly did the new bolt do that the original bolt did not?
my bolt looks fine, unclear how replacing bolt would help, esp if the splines on the lever itself are chewed up a little (not that that is the case but....)
What exactly did the new bolt do that the original bolt did not?
my bolt looks fine, unclear how replacing bolt would help, esp if the splines on the lever itself are chewed up a little (not that that is the case but....)
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 462
Likes: 87
From: Southern California
I had a '12 street glide that had this issue.
replace the socket head capscrew with a regular grade 8 hex head bolt. Then before installing use a vise or hammer and pinch the gap shut. It was a BITC H to get it perfect but eventually I got it to slide on with virtually zero play then loctited and tightened the PI$$ out of the bolt. Did it with the primary installed. Was tight until the day I sold the bike 17k later.
replace the socket head capscrew with a regular grade 8 hex head bolt. Then before installing use a vise or hammer and pinch the gap shut. It was a BITC H to get it perfect but eventually I got it to slide on with virtually zero play then loctited and tightened the PI$$ out of the bolt. Did it with the primary installed. Was tight until the day I sold the bike 17k later.
While I've been wrenching on cars for about 45 years now I'm new to HD and crazy as this may sound, I wasn't sure if they engineered it this way. Thanks for all the suggestions and comments!
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 4,816
Likes: 1,320
From: Good roads, cold beer
As Uncle Larry said, get a new hex bolt, grade 8 will work. Put a small sae flat washer under the head, lube or anti seize on both sides of the washer. Blue loc tite on the threads and tighten it down tight. If that doesn't work, new shift arm. You can trim some off the slot of the arm making it slightly wider thereby allowing it to clam a little better. The arm is aluminum, the splined shaft is steel. The arm will wear before the shaft. Only in an extreme case would you have too address the shaft.
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/gener...l#post17582976