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P2127, 2138, 1510 Codes. Stumped

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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 05:06 AM
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Default P2127, 2138, 1510 Codes. Stumped

Working on a 2012 FLHX that has these codes. Did all the troubleshooting I could think of visually and with a multi-meter. Really couldn't find anything definitive but research pointed towards the TGS. Replaced it. Buttoned everything back up and took it for a 10+ mile ride and it seemed to be o.k. all though it died twice when it coming to a stop. The next day, started to ride it and it went into limited performance mode within 300 ft. So I go back and recheck my checks and I found the violet/white wire was internally broken in the harness in front of the fuel tank. I replaced that section and was able to clear the P2127 code but not the other two. Started the bike which took a minute but after it started, no throttle response at all and the cruise light is blinking. And now this is what's befuddling: while at idle with no throttle response, I fiddle with the wires around the wire I just fixed to see if there was another broken one that I missed with the multi-meter and in the process, I inadvertently disconnected the wire I just fixed (didn't have it soldered in yet) and the throttle response comes back as well the code I just cleared.
The bike has apes that was installed 6 years ago. Doesn't have a tuner of any sort. The TGS doesn't have the green connector. TCA connector pins and all that TT418 stuff looks fine. These codes initially popped up after going into limited performance mode. Nothing was done to it before then. The bike is maintained/serviced accordingly as well as rode hard and put up wet. Currently has around 55k miles on it.
Any sound technical advice and or guidance would be sincerely appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 05:36 AM
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If you ask Google, you'll come across a lot of information that relates to people getting these codes after bar changes and problems with the little green connector (which you say you don't have), as well as the TGS. That's about all I can offer.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 07:45 PM
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I'm having those codes now an then....usually on a cold start, once I ride a bit if I shut it off an restart it the CEL stays off. Now I'm questioning the connector at the end of the bars/inside the fairing...I got rid of the green connector too. I'm thinking about replacing the wire that runs from the green connector inside the bars to the plug in the dash or getting the other style grip sensor that is one piece of wire to the faring connector. How did you identify the wire broken at the center of the handlebar.

https://www.surdyke.com/PartsMain.as...and%20Controls

https://www.roadglide.org/24-control...al-wiring.html
https://www.roadglide.org/24-control...-my-day-2.html
 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 08:15 PM
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[QUOTE=langwilliams;17595298] How did you identify the wire broken at the center of the handlebar./QUOTE]

The wire I mentioned was in the harness in front of the fuel tank where it comes through the clamp riveted to the frame.

On another note, I went back and checked every wire for continuity, disassembled and inspected the TGS and TCA connectors and didn't find anything... However, when I plugged everything back up, I was able to clear the codes. Test rode and so far so good...

 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 08:24 PM
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you can also try to "calibrate" the new sensor....turn the key on until the CEL goes out then turn it off for 4 seconds....repeat 2 more times then turn it on an start. run switch has to be in run while doing this.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 08:32 PM
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[quote=fordhd2005]
Originally Posted by langwilliams
How did you identify the wire broken at the center of the handlebar./QUOTE]

The wire I mentioned was in the harness in front of the fuel tank where it comes through the clamp riveted to the frame.

On another note, I went back and checked every wire for continuity, disassembled and inspected the TGS and TCA connectors and didn't find anything... However, when I plugged everything back up, I was able to clear the codes. Test rode and so far so good...
Glad you got it figured out.
 
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Old Aug 14, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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Hope that works for you. I recently had my bike go into limp mode then re start and run fine for awhile. One day after riding to work it was done...wouldnt even start. After some trouble shooting...cleaned plugs, changed pins in the plug in the throttle body and still nothing. So I had a code for the throttle position sensors, which are not serviceable according to harley. Luckily I had swapped out to 58mm last year and still had my old one so I took that little cover off the left side of the throttle body to see what made these things work. Pretty simple as all the electronics are in that cover and thry tell the little servo motor what to do. So I put that one on the bike and it fired right up and has been fine since...about a month ago. Pretty sad the new one crapped out a week out of warranty and my 10 year old one is still working great. I'd look there if you have any more problems
 
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Old Aug 15, 2018 | 10:38 AM
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While I can't offer a solution, I can offer sympathy since I'm in the same boat. '12 Tri Glide and was throwing the 1510 (among others) code so I thought it was the twist grip sensor so went to HD and bought the extended version and took the bars off and ran the new one. No change. Trike is in limp mode with CE light and blinking cruise light (indicating no throttle). I can't get it out of limp mode either. I have an extra set of hand controls off my old ultra along with two other twist grip sensors (short version) and can plug them in and still no change. I have removed the tank and checked wiring, have removed the a/c and checked and cleaned and greased the connections to no avail.
According to the electrical service manual, the 2127 code is the one to diagnose first and the first step in that diagnosis is to connect a break out box to the ecm.
So, I guess for me it's off to the dealer with credit card and ky in hand.
Good luck on yours.
Hoggly
 
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Old Aug 15, 2018 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by HogglyWoggly
According to the electrical service manual, the 2127 code is the one to diagnose first and the first step in that diagnosis is to connect a break out box to the ecm.
Hoggly
If you know how to use a multi-meter, you can check for continuity in the Violet/Yellow wire (TGS2) going from the TGS connector to the ECM. Like I said in my OP, this one was broken internally by the clamp that is riveted to the frame in front of the right side of the fuel tank. You can check all those wires in that location (just measure as close to the clamp as you can get and out to the front about 6"). It helps to have those needle type probes. Also check for any resistance on the Black/White going from the TGS connector to the ECM and the TGS to the TCA. If there is any measurable resistance, check the pins in the TCA harness.
If you don't know how to use one or know somebody than can, it's going to cost you....
 
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Old Apr 5, 2020 | 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by HogglyWoggly
While I can't offer a solution, I can offer sympathy since I'm in the same boat. '12 Tri Glide and was throwing the 1510 (among others) code so I thought it was the twist grip sensor so went to HD and bought the extended version and took the bars off and ran the new one. No change. Trike is in limp mode with CE light and blinking cruise light (indicating no throttle). I can't get it out of limp mode either. I have an extra set of hand controls off my old ultra along with two other twist grip sensors (short version) and can plug them in and still no change. I have removed the tank and checked wiring, have removed the a/c and checked and cleaned and greased the connections to no avail.
According to the electrical service manual, the 2127 code is the one to diagnose first and the first step in that diagnosis is to connect a break out box to the ecm.
So, I guess for me it's off to the dealer with credit card and ky in hand.
Good luck on yours.
Hoggly
Hoggly, did you get this resolved? Looking for advice because I’m dealing with the same issue. Any help is appreciated!

Ryan
 
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