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2004 electraglide std, fuel inj,K&N filter, Vance and Hines pro pipe.
My problem is after it runs for about 20 minutes the check engine light comes on sputters like crazy and I can barely keep it runnng.Thisis the same scenario each time.Need to keep the RPMS up to get it home.New gas,plugs new, changed oil, even put in fuel injector cleaner as a desperate move,starts like a champ every time. Bought the bike used last year and after a while the check engine light came on ( only when getting on it) but no noticeable running problems at allso I thought Id get it looked at this year, however now Ive got this problem.Im a newbie to the bike and looking for input.
Before I take it into the dealer and fork out major$$$ any ideas?
Have you checked for an intake leak? I,ve had my intake manifold seals replaced 3 times since new, 14 months,15,000 miles now. One of the reasons I,m not riding today. Dan?
Ive got 12k on it now, when checking for an intake leak how do you proceed, look for black residue, oil residue what?
Is their a test thats run on it, what ever it is its turning on the check engine light each time as well,so i was thinking more in the sensors area??.
Have you checked for an intake leak? I,ve had my intake manifold seals replaced 3 times since new, 14 months,15,000 miles now. One of the reasons I,m not riding today. Dan?
I had to replace the intake seals on my carbed '96 RK about every 30k miles, and was hoping they had improved them enough on the '07's where this wouldn't be required as often. Apparently my hopes are dashed. Changing them on that Evo was a PITA, and I can't imagine it being any more fun on this EFI SG.
Ive got 12k on it now, when checking for an intake leak how do you proceed, look for black residue, oil residue what?
Is their a test thats run on it, what ever it is its turning on the check engine light each time as well,so i was thinking more in the sensors area??.
Warm the bike up and spray some WD-40 or solvent around the area where the intake meets the head. If you hear any change in idle speed either up or down you have a leak. If you change them, try using some high-heat sealer like Hylomar on the new seals. I plan on doing this next time it's required, as it should help keep the intake sealed longer.
So many things it could be and info a little on the weak side but....
First is there a pc iii etc added?
If so disconnect it and reconnect the bike harness back to the ECm (under right cover).
Ride it gently and see if problem goes away.
If yes, then suspect a faulty pc iii or wrong map.
If you don't have one.
Check a vacuum leak at manifold. But instead of using wd 40 etc (flammable) use a squirt bottle with water. This will seal a vacuum leak temporarily while testing. Rpm's could go up or down somewhat. If so reseal and make sure front flange is on front cylinder and rear on rear.
Did previous owner have a stage one download done on the bike when he put on the air cleaner and pipes; or did you put them on?
Either way it needs that done at the least, or put on a Screaming Eagle Race Tuner (sert).
If this was not or has not been done, bike is running too lean and timing is wrong.
Also after the above (sert or stage one D/L) runn a compression check make sure no damage has been done. And do a warm fuel injection pressure test.
And by all means pull up the diagnostic trouble codes if any. This could point you in the right direction of what is wrong or going wrong.
Next read up on fuel injection systems work this will help.
The previous owner had theV&H pro pipe and stage one Kit put on.
I had to take it to a local shop that works on all Vtwins, I could barely get it in to them.
Hes taking a look at it as Ive got zero free time now and want to be on it as theirs limited good riding weather in Michigan and Ive got to take advantage of the summer thats left.
Ill post what he finds.
Dealer takes a week to get you in around here.
Fortunately we have MMI here, so there's no lack of techs in our area I can usually get in that day, and sometimes that hour, to a qualified tech.
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