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this is driving me nuts but maybe it’s normal for now...
103 high compression build now has 3500 miles on it and uses 1/2 quart every 1800 miles is this unusual for a new build it has zero smoke out the pipes but on hot days I can smell it at stop lights
compression is good bike runs very strong otherwise running open air cleaner and amsoil 20/50
its bow almost most winter and it’s bugging the **** out of me weather I tear it down again or not
Not enough info.
Did you build it?
What machine work?
Type of guides, stems and clearances?
Rings? (type)
What was your goal?
A long life waffle engine? (high torq mostly touring)
You mentioned High Compression, what is it? (ratio)
You need to fill in some blanks for an educated guess.
Not enough info.
Did you build it?
What machine work?
Type of guides, stems and clearances?
Rings? (type)
What was your goal?
A long life waffle engine? (high torq mostly touring)
You mentioned High Compression, what is it? (ratio)
You need to fill in some blanks for an educated guess.
yes I built it and I’ve done this many times
i had a reputable machine shop do the work (j prescision)
they put av&v guides in
rings and pistons are HD checked gap 14 thou
set compression to 10.25
Using a full synthetic like amsoil is NOT recommended for a new build. It tends to vastly increase the ring seating time, allowing the engine to go through more oil than it would otherwise. When I worked at a bike shop, we did a LOT of performance engine builds, including bore kits. We always honed a good crosshatch to the cylinder walls, even on brand new jugs, and made sure the rings were all properly gapped, and oriented. We always used dino oil for the break in period, only going to synthetic after the engine was ran for several thousand miles, just as any new bike engine would be broken in. We had very good results with the engines, following those guidelines. I'd be inclined to drain the amsoil, flush the crankcase, and replace with regular oil, and a new filter. Run it that way for a period of time, and I'd bet you'd cut your oil consumption fairly quickly. Try that before tearing anything apart, easy things first, because it sounds like the rings still haven't really seated yet, and they may not with that super slick oil in there. The whole KISS principle thing.
With me sounding like an **** hole- you seem to be the assembler, not the builder
What valve seals?
Rings, - The low tension? Or are they typical HD street stuff ?
If they are low tension what was the drag set at?
Next, if this is all over the counter HD stuff you could be doing a little better mileage wise ..
And yes like the above post, don't use syn oils for break-in.
In the end, I don't think you are going to rip it apart for an extra Qt of oil .?
Last edited by Kingglide549; Oct 13, 2018 at 05:34 PM.
With me sounding like an **** hole- you seem to be the assembler, not the builder
What valve seals?
Rings, - The low tension? Or are they typical HD street stuff ?
If they are low tension what was the drag set at?
Next, if this is all over the counter HD stuff you could be doing a little better mileage wise ..
And yes like the above post, don't use syn oils for break-in.
In the end, I don't think you are going to rip it apart for an extra Qt of oil .?
i used regular oil until 1500 miles ago then switched
With me sounding like an **** hole- you seem to be the assembler, not the builder
What valve seals?
Rings, - The low tension? Or are they typical HD street stuff ?
If they are low tension what was the drag set at?
Next, if this is all over the counter HD stuff you could be doing a little better mileage wise ..
And yes like the above post, don't use syn oils for break-in.
In the end, I don't think you are going to rip it apart for an extra Qt of oil .?
cometic valve seats were used and yes yes you can say I just assembled it
Using a full synthetic like amsoil is NOT recommended for a new build. It tends to vastly increase the ring seating time, allowing the engine to go through more oil than it would otherwise. When I worked at a bike shop, we did a LOT of performance engine builds, including bore kits. We always honed a good crosshatch to the cylinder walls, even on brand new jugs, and made sure the rings were all properly gapped, and oriented. We always used dino oil for the break in period, only going to synthetic after the engine was ran for several thousand miles, just as any new bike engine would be broken in. We had very good results with the engines, following those guidelines. I'd be inclined to drain the amsoil, flush the crankcase, and replace with regular oil, and a new filter. Run it that way for a period of time, and I'd bet you'd cut your oil consumption fairly quickly. Try that before tearing anything apart, easy things first, because it sounds like the rings still haven't really seated yet, and they may not with that super slick oil in there. The whole KISS principle thing.
thank you
its soon time to put it away for the winter so before I do I’ll put hd dino oil in it for next year and run that for a bit
I figure after a couple thousand miles it would be ok to switch to synthetic
You should never use synthetic until the motor is broken it will not seat the rings properly you’ll always have a oil burner 1st 500 miles to 1000 are the most important. Its probably to late the damage is done. Can’t hurt to Try
You should never use synthetic until the motor is broken it will not seat the rings properly you’ll always have a oil burner 1st 500 miles to 1000 are the most important. Its probably to late the damage is done. Can’t hurt to Try
like I said I used Dino oil until about 1500 miles ago or 2300 km the build now has close to 6000 km on it
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