Front wheel alignment question
And on these bikes (since 2009) there is no alignment adjustments to be made. You can check/replace engine mounts etc but that's about it.
About all you can do is loosen the 4 batwing mounting bolts and move the fairing to and fro to see if that makes a difference. Handlebar clamp the same way.
38K is way, way, way, too soon to be replacing sprockets and belt...
About all you can do is loosen the 4 batwing mounting bolts and move the fairing to and fro to see if that makes a difference. Handlebar clamp the same way.
38K is way, way, way, too soon to be replacing sprockets and belt...
If that is true, I would be more then suspicious and would check it anyway?
How is the belt adjusted without slots?
I agree with foxtrapper, with his two suggested possibilities.
Your bike has the older style forks which are not properly supported by the top tree, so it is too easy for the two legs to be slightly out of alignment, such as when hitting a big pothole hard. A way of correcting that is to slacken off the wheel axle clamps and nut, also the bottom tree clamping screws, then pump the forks several times when holding the front brake on. Tighten everything back as per the FSM. That should help with correcting any misalignment of the forks in the trees.
Take a close look at the handlebar clamps, especially if non-stock bars have been installed. The top clamp is a single piece, but the lower clamps are separate. The gaps front and rear of each lower clamp should be the same, otherwise the bars may be pulled a little out of alignment.
Your bike has the older style forks which are not properly supported by the top tree, so it is too easy for the two legs to be slightly out of alignment, such as when hitting a big pothole hard. A way of correcting that is to slacken off the wheel axle clamps and nut, also the bottom tree clamping screws, then pump the forks several times when holding the front brake on. Tighten everything back as per the FSM. That should help with correcting any misalignment of the forks in the trees.
Take a close look at the handlebar clamps, especially if non-stock bars have been installed. The top clamp is a single piece, but the lower clamps are separate. The gaps front and rear of each lower clamp should be the same, otherwise the bars may be pulled a little out of alignment.
The swingarm still has slots for adjusting belt tension and dual axle cams to keep it all aligned (to the rear fork/swingarm) while doing so. No tire to frame adjustability there.
The frame to engine to swing arm adjustments have been removed since the new frame was introduced.
The swingarm still has slots for adjusting belt tension and dual axle cams to keep it all aligned (to the rear fork/swingarm) while doing so. No tire to frame adjustability there.
The swingarm still has slots for adjusting belt tension and dual axle cams to keep it all aligned (to the rear fork/swingarm) while doing so. No tire to frame adjustability there.
I agree with foxtrapper, with his two suggested possibilities.
Your bike has the older style forks which are not properly supported by the top tree, so it is too easy for the two legs to be slightly out of alignment, such as when hitting a big pothole hard. A way of correcting that is to slacken off the wheel axle clamps and nut, also the bottom tree clamping screws, then pump the forks several times when holding the front brake on. Tighten everything back as per the FSM. That should help with correcting any misalignment of the forks in the trees.
Take a close look at the handlebar clamps, especially if non-stock bars have been installed. The top clamp is a single piece, but the lower clamps are separate. The gaps front and rear of each lower clamp should be the same, otherwise the bars may be pulled a little out of alignment.
Your bike has the older style forks which are not properly supported by the top tree, so it is too easy for the two legs to be slightly out of alignment, such as when hitting a big pothole hard. A way of correcting that is to slacken off the wheel axle clamps and nut, also the bottom tree clamping screws, then pump the forks several times when holding the front brake on. Tighten everything back as per the FSM. That should help with correcting any misalignment of the forks in the trees.
Take a close look at the handlebar clamps, especially if non-stock bars have been installed. The top clamp is a single piece, but the lower clamps are separate. The gaps front and rear of each lower clamp should be the same, otherwise the bars may be pulled a little out of alignment.
Drag Specialties axle
I'd be willing to bet nothing is bent or tweaked, its just in your risers/bushings. When you tighten them they often twist a little that way.
Loosen handlebars and bushings, retighten while someone else is holding everything straight. Ive seen it a bunch of times.
Loosen handlebars and bushings, retighten while someone else is holding everything straight. Ive seen it a bunch of times.
...I noticed a aftermarket axle assembly on front axle. It eliminates the big axle nut and just looks like a smooth chrome cover there. I'd never noticed that piece of bling on other bikes before, but since then I've noticed it on other bikes, apparently it's a Drag Specialties "upgrade". My indie was familiar with them and mentioned he didn't understand why people felt the need to dress that part of the bike up. Now I have to wonder if that might play into this.
Drag Specialties axle
Drag Specialties axle
If you really do have that Drag Specialties axle, I don't think that alone would cause a tweaking. Removing and installing the front wheel axle doesn't cause any forces that would tweak the forks.
On the 2002 touring bikes the rear axle adjusters were eliminated in favor of the axle cams. Been that way ever since. It's still possible to misalign the rear wheel if both cams are not touching the swingarm bosses.














