Changed out headlights and turn signals front & rear to led put in a Badlands LE-03-A load resistor plug in and play. Tried clearing codes but it keeps coming back checked ground wire everything is ok. The next plan of action is to change the regulator... Any suggestions??? Would be greatly appreciated. If I ride around with this will it mess anything up?

 

Miles Mack, did you get this figured out? I am getting same code and Harley says they think it's my stator. I really need to hear what if anything you figured out. I have replaced battery, voltage regulator, ignition coil, and every sensor on the engine and the speed sensor on transmission. I still get B1006 code. Thanks for any info you can provide.

 

Oops, just noticed I got sucked into a 2 year old thread...

For TerryMcQ, who posted yesterday ... here is my advice...


Harley "thinks" it may be the stator..??? There are testing procedures to check the performance of the stator before you remove it... They shouldn't think... they should know...!!

It's good that you checked the codes... Code B1006, I believe means that the supply voltage when the bike is running is spiking. That points to the charging system.

As you are finding out, it's kind of expensive to just throw parts at an issue trying to fix it.. always better to do proper diagnostic tests before replacing a component..

When you replaced the battery and the voltage regulator... did you check either of them to see if they were actually bad...??? When dealing with a problem concerning those three charging components (stator, voltage regulator, battery), if a problem is not fixed quickly, it is not uncommon that when one of those three goes bad, it can damage one or both of the other two...

With all those new components, I'd check out the old ones and try to find if one of them was bad... it's always possible, although not probable, that one of the new parts is just bad off the shelf...

Additionally, if you pay a dealer the labor to remove/replace the stator... have them do the proper diagnostic test to ensure it's faulty before charging you all the replacement labor and for a new part, for nothing...

Good luck with the repair...

 

hattitude, battery tested bad. Starter was also changed at same time as battery (least weekend) because starter spun but drive wouldn't kick out to engage flywheel. Also had low fuel pressure (20 psi) and changed tank guts (pump/filter/regulator assembly and float assembly) at same time starter and battery crapped out. I did not test regulator prior to all that. I replaced regulator and ignition coil both about 3-4 weeks ago because of all the ongoing issues leading to all these parts replacements. It was right after replacing ignition coil and regulator that it started throwing B1006 code. At same time it threw B1007 but that one went away after a couple times checking the codes during this ongoing nightmare. Just yesterday (Saturday 6/13) Harley shop tested electrical system and I had told them all the parts I replaced and that most were Harley parts except MAP sensor and TSP sensor and I told them I put in new Harley starter and Drag Specialties/Yuasa battery made for Harley.I told them I wanted to verify all new parts are good and I wanted them to check ECM and I thought because of the B1006 code maybe new Harley voltage regulator was defective.

They had 2 techs and 2 managers whispering a few times together talking about what was wrong and I should have walked up and listened to it all but I thought they would tell me everything when the time came. I think they just guessed it is problem with stator but it didn't actually show bad. I think they are assuming it must be a problem that only shows intermittently. They might be trying to cover their asses because they worked on the same problems last year and it was never straightened out, I just thought it was because after various work done by various people at various shops, the codes stopped for a while and the bike seemed fine.

I was reminded that I had the same problems last year when I looked through old posts I had placed here in hdforums asking for help about this same B1006 code and others last August. The electric problem started because of damaged wiring harness right under fuse box because I bought the bike qrecked and one thing it toook time to show as a problem was when the original owner crashed he bent the left side passenger foot peg bracket but you couldn't tell to look at it but then the belt guard was hitting the frame on hard bumps and tore into the wiring harness that drops out of fuse box next to vertical frame tube and it tore into at least 6 wires and the electrical issues have never gone away since except seemingly for a few weeks or a month after something is worked on but the root issue I don't think has ever been fixed.

I did find a bad ground after 5 shops worked on the problems and 3 of them worked on the torn up wiring, the last 2 were the Harley dealership I just went to yesterday. I found the bad ground a day after getting the bike back from them when it broke down and I had to pay for a tow and the next morning I started cleaning the battery cables at both ends and that's whet I found the ground cable that ties into the same connector/terminal as the battery ground cable and mounts on the ground stud on the transmission, that smaller gauge ground was never soldered and/or crimped into the connector/terminal from the factory and wiggled itself loose and sometimes made contact good for a while, whether hours or days or weeks, and sometimes didn't until that day it finally stopped making contact.

I fixed it and thought that was FINALLY the end of the wiring gremlin but I think I was wrong and it seems to very possibly go back to the torn up wiring harness. I couldn't actually watch what they did to fix it but I'd bet money if I take it apart or pay someone to do it, there will be a wire or wires that should have been replaced and/or repaired better whether it's because a strand or 2 or more was torn through and they missed cutting out all the damage or thought it would be ok.

OR I'm all wrong and it IS a bad stator. But for some reason I thought a bad stator could only produce a low voltage problem, not a high accessory line voltage. Once upon a time 40 years ago I worked at a automotive starter/alternator/generator repair/rebuild shop and I used to know a lot more about electric. Unfortunately, I've done too much brain damage over the years to remember more than just enough to cause trouble.

 

Wow.... Sounds like a crap sandwich....

The hard part about electrical problems is that you need to be systematic, patient and persistent... I hate electrical issues, because they take the most time and effort to solve.. especially if it is intermittent..

With all the different directions your repair has gone and with all the different people who have "assisted" with this ongoing repair.... I would want to go through and check each and every step that was taken..

I would make a list of everyhting that has been done in the attempt to fix this problem... I would then try to prioritize the list, by how the various parts interact with each other, knowing the entire repair history should be systematically checked...

Based on all you've shared, it seems as if all these troubles started with a pinched/damaged/torn section of wiring harness... That would be where I would start.. and then just go on from there.. That's the only way you can be sure to discover the cause(s) for your recurring issues..

It sounds as if you have the knowledge/skill to tackle this, but it won't be easy... or quick... If you should decide to tackle this on your own... get both a Harley-Davidson Service Manual and Electronic Diagnostic Manual for your year/model of bike... they are not cheap, but will prove priceless in this quest... And I do mean to get the Harley_Davidson manuals, the "others" (Chiltons, Haynes, et al) will prove to be a disappointment in my experience..

If you have neither the time nor motivation, I would suggest getting a set of "fresh eyes" to take a look at the problem... find a shop/dealer with a good reputation who has no dog in this fight (they haven't already worked on it and failed)..... Tell them the problem, how it started (pinched wire harness on a crashed bike), and that a few shops have tried, but it's never been successfully fixed... I would answer their questions briefly, and I wouldn't offer any additional info... I'd leave out the list of new parts and other details about what was replaced unless specifically asked about, and/or what you may think is the problem... You want a truly unbiased inspection by the "fresh eyes", free of anything that could influence their procedures or opinions....

Good luck with your repair... Remember, being systematic, patient, and persistent will eventually win the day...

 

hattitude, thanks for all the info. I do have the electronic versions of Harley service manual and electrical diagnostic manual and use them more than I ever wanted to. I used to understand technical jargon a lot better but I guess I have abused my brain too much so that now when trying to read a lot of what I need to know like diagnosing and testing electrical parts and systems gets really confusing for me. It's like knowing the answer is there but I can't get it in focus in my head. I have a good multimeter but most of its functions are lost in my brain fog.

I'll have to see if I can find a video for testing the stator or I will get a second opinion from another shop before committing to changing the stator. It seems checking the stator should be the easiest thing to start with to rule in or out and if it tests good then I would know never to trust that Harley service department and to get an estimate for replacing the portion of the wiring harness damaged starting right from the terminals in the fuse block. I will also install the new turn signal module on order from the same Harley shop if it ever gets there. I should have ordered it from Ronnie's in Massachusetts, they seem to have EVERYTHING in stock and I would have had it a week ago.

Before all that, I am going to take out the Badlands load equalizer for the LED lights to see if the code goes away. That sure would be an easy fix but if I leave that in to keep lights working properly, then the code will always be there and I won't know if it comes up for another legitimate problem.

Other than that, I'm going to look for bad ground wire again to see if there is another new bad ground or loose or dirty ground.

Thanks again nd if you have any more insight after this, please let me know. Everything could be helpful.