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I find it very unlikely that you're slipping the clutch in lower gears but not higher gears. That never happens. Not saying it isn't slipping, mine was and I have less power. I went with a Barnett spring in this bike, last bike had the same internals and had an SE plate. Never slips now.
Unless you've been abusing it, I highly doubt the frictions need replaced. Mine were nearly new in dimension so I just inspected them thoroughly and reused them. I did find one aluminum chip (from machining) stuck in one of the frictions, probably been there since new.
Im sorry.....at 4k the trans slips to past 5k. Then 2nd thru 4th I shift just past 5k
I just looked at a dyno chart for a 2016 103".[should be comparable to your 2012]- Hp is just about all in at 4k,and torque takes a significant drop at 4k. I'm just trying to save you from wasting money,replacing a clutch with only 25,000 miles on it,and should be good for 125,000 miles. If you ever tried drag racing,someone with the identical bike to yours,shifting at around 42-44 hundred would be way ahead of you,half way through the quarter mile.
. I have experience with clutches,on every thing from mini-bikes to 18 wheelers,and plenty of cars,trucks and motorcycles in between.And as caulk04 says,it just doesn't happen that way.
I think I've abused the clutch by feathering it from the dig. Instead of just releasing it.
Can the diaphragm be changed out thru the inspection cover? If so, would the engine need to be rotated to access all the bolts?
I think I've abused the clutch by feathering it from the dig. Instead of just releasing it.
Can the diaphragm be changed out thru the inspection cover? If so, would the engine need to be rotated to access all the bolts?
Good numbers,but that's more proof that your clutch isn't slipping-believe us,if it's slipping,it's slipping in 5th and 6th. I don't know off hand about the diaphragm, take the derby cover off and look. You will have to turn the engine though, by pulling the spark plugs and turning the rear wheel.
I think I've abused the clutch by feathering it from the dig. Instead of just releasing it.
Can the diaphragm be changed out thru the inspection cover? If so, would the engine need to be rotated to access all the bolts?
Rarely do clutches wear out in these bikes, but your HP and style of riding is pushing the limit. Pretty sure you will have to pull off the outter primary cover to do the job.
Good numbers,but that's more proof that your clutch isn't slipping-believe us,if it's slipping,it's slipping in 5th and 6th. I don't know off hand about the diaphragm, take the derby cover off and look. You will have to turn the engine though, by pulling the spark plugs and turning the rear wheel.
I know what you're saying. It's like the bike goes into neutral. But if I back off the throttle and then easy back into it, it's fine. I think I noticed it for the first time with a passenger on board.
This only occurs during a hard launch. And only at the top of first. If it happens, I shift into 2nd, 3rd and so on. No problems.
Don't even know what else to consider.......
I know what you're saying. It's like the bike goes into neutral. But if I back off the throttle and then easy back into it, it's fine. I think I noticed it for the first time with a passenger on board.
This only occurs during a hard launch. And only at the top of first. If it happens, I shift into 2nd, 3rd and so on. No problems.
Don't even know what else to consider.......
I know what you're saying. It's like the bike goes into neutral. But if I back off the throttle and then easy back into it, it's fine. I think I noticed it for the first time with a passenger on board.
This only occurs during a hard launch. And only at the top of first. If it happens, I shift into 2nd, 3rd and so on. No problems.
Don't even know what else to consider.......
To your original question: if you haven't glazed the plates, an SE diaphragm will work. You will notice some increase in clutch lever effort, but very manageable. Primary fluid choice & fill level will also affect clutch performance. Syn3 is NOT a good choice for primary drive or transmission usage. I have used Formula + in my primaries like forever, with good results. H-D has now replaced it with a synthetic gear oil that has an additive package formulated for good clutch performance. I've read some good reviews & will probably begin using that product in the future.
To your original question: if you haven't glazed the plates, an SE diaphragm will work. You will notice some increase in clutch lever effort, but very manageable. Primary fluid choice & fill level will also affect clutch performance. Syn3 is NOT a good choice for primary drive or transmission usage. I have used Formula + in my primaries like forever, with good results. H-D has now replaced it with a synthetic gear oil that has an additive package formulated for good clutch performance. I've read some good reviews & will probably begin using that product in the future.
Glazed! Probably so. And if a have to pop the cover off. I'd rather replace the friction as well. Also friction modifiers in the oil sounds pretty important. Never understood the syn3 in all three. Seems counter productive. Idk. Thanks for reply.
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