2012 103 clutch slippage
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,244
From: San Diego, CA
Some very good points brought up here...
I read through this too fast, I missed that it was slipping only in 1st, but not the higher gears..... that is NOT the norm....
I also was expecting more than 25K miles... at your power level, riding style could wear out a clutch, but you'd have to be fairly abusive in 25K to do it...
I would start with the fluid as suggested, both type & level. I've used HD Formula+ for years. In a bike of your year, you need to worry about proper lubrication of the compensator as well as the clutch discs. HD Formula + has done a good job of both over the years.
If that doesn't fix things, then spend some time and a couple gaskets. Open up the primary and inspect the clutch. You'll then know what, if anything, is worn/glazed/broken and needs to be replaced... At your power level a stronger spring can't hurt. I remember even my '03 HD big bore kit (95") came with an SE clutch spring, and it didn't put out the power numbers you have....
I read through this too fast, I missed that it was slipping only in 1st, but not the higher gears..... that is NOT the norm....
I also was expecting more than 25K miles... at your power level, riding style could wear out a clutch, but you'd have to be fairly abusive in 25K to do it...
I would start with the fluid as suggested, both type & level. I've used HD Formula+ for years. In a bike of your year, you need to worry about proper lubrication of the compensator as well as the clutch discs. HD Formula + has done a good job of both over the years.
If that doesn't fix things, then spend some time and a couple gaskets. Open up the primary and inspect the clutch. You'll then know what, if anything, is worn/glazed/broken and needs to be replaced... At your power level a stronger spring can't hurt. I remember even my '03 HD big bore kit (95") came with an SE clutch spring, and it didn't put out the power numbers you have....
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 57
From: N. IL
Some very good points brought up here...
I read through this too fast, I missed that it was slipping only in 1st, but not the higher gears..... that is NOT the norm....
I also was expecting more than 25K miles... at your power level, riding style could wear out a clutch, but you'd have to be fairly abusive in 25K to do it...
I would start with the fluid as suggested, both type & level. I've used HD Formula+ for years. In a bike of your year, you need to worry about proper lubrication of the compensator as well as the clutch discs. HD Formula + has done a good job of both over the years.
If that doesn't fix things, then spend some time and a couple gaskets. Open up the primary and inspect the clutch. You'll then know what, if anything, is worn/glazed/broken and needs to be replaced... At your power level a stronger spring can't hurt. I remember even my '03 HD big bore kit (95") came with an SE clutch spring, and it didn't put out the power numbers you have....
I read through this too fast, I missed that it was slipping only in 1st, but not the higher gears..... that is NOT the norm....
I also was expecting more than 25K miles... at your power level, riding style could wear out a clutch, but you'd have to be fairly abusive in 25K to do it...
I would start with the fluid as suggested, both type & level. I've used HD Formula+ for years. In a bike of your year, you need to worry about proper lubrication of the compensator as well as the clutch discs. HD Formula + has done a good job of both over the years.
If that doesn't fix things, then spend some time and a couple gaskets. Open up the primary and inspect the clutch. You'll then know what, if anything, is worn/glazed/broken and needs to be replaced... At your power level a stronger spring can't hurt. I remember even my '03 HD big bore kit (95") came with an SE clutch spring, and it didn't put out the power numbers you have....
I have the spring here. I just don't want to open it up and regret not getting the friction. I'll check the oil level first thing in the am. And go from there. I'm 20miles from J&P cycles. So, I guess I'll go there, get some formula+ and grab the friction and open things up. I can always return the unopened plates. But I have to believe their cooked. Haha.
Road Master
Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 830
Likes: 121
From: Hill Country, Tx
I'm going to go against a lot of the posts about never slipping in 1st. Depending on what cams, engine mods, etc you have and when your torque comes on (RPM) you can indeed slip in 1st and not really notice it in higher gears although I would think there is some slippage in higher gears as well. In 1st you are more likely to be hitting the higher rpms and if you are really hard accelerating it can slip. If you are riding a touring bike like I am that is a lot of weight to get moving and a real torquey set up puts a lot of strain on the clutch getting the bike mass moving . I have my engine built and putting out slightly higher numbers with it hitting 100 tq @ 2100 rpms and the dyno tech told me I was walking a fine line between slipping the clutch and it holding. This is with the SE heavy spring. So far I haven't felt any slippage but I think it's just a matter of time. I have a VPC sitting in the box waiting on me to install it.
I used to drag race a 67 Chevelle SS with a 402 making over 500hp and had hell keeping a clutch in it. Stock weight of the car was around 3600 pounds and getting that mass moving was hard on clutches.
I used to drag race a 67 Chevelle SS with a 402 making over 500hp and had hell keeping a clutch in it. Stock weight of the car was around 3600 pounds and getting that mass moving was hard on clutches.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,244
From: San Diego, CA
While I admit it's not the norm... I believe you when you say it's happening....
Every time I think I know something definitive about these Harleys... something will happen to make me scratch my head...
It's hard enough to give thoughts/advice on something, based on second hand info over the internet. When it's something "outside the norm" happening, it makes giving advice on why/how an "iffy" proposition...
In a case like yours, unless it's happened to someone who is posting a remedy, the rest of us will be trying to figure out what could be causing it...
I know my way around a Harley, but I am no experienced, trained technician. I do know that if I were in your shoes, I'd have to get into that primary and check things out for myself.... If everything looked/measured/checked out OK.... I add the heavier spring....
Good luck and keep us posted...
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2017
Posts: 308
Likes: 60
From: Wi
I was having my clutch slip if I got on it for two years. Put a se clutch spring in and that helped but still not right. Seemed to be getting more slipping and changed the plates and steels. Everything looked all right when I replaced the clutch. I could not get gas mileage better than 34. This spring I finally found the problem the clutch cable broke. I believe the cable was frayed by the clutch lever and would be slow at letting the cable return. After I replaced the clutch cable the bike started to preform better and now Im getting 39.5 mpg. Its like a whole new bike.
Road Master
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 773
Likes: 124
From: Between purgatory and retirement
I am still wondering what oil the OP has been running in the primary because he doesnt seem to be too sure
Red Line Shockproof (which ever version) should not be run in the primary. ( The Fn clutch will slip!)
I do not remember a lot about my physics classes, but what I do remember is that the stress on the clutch would be much greater in a higher gear, which as others have said, any slippage should be felt more in higher gears then in first.
To the OP: who built your motor for those numbers, and did they, to the best of your knowledge, do any clutch upgrades to support those numbers?
How long ago was it done and how long have you noticed this problem?
Also, what did they use to tune the bike, and have you gone through the tune to see if there are any limiters in place (like throttle blade control)?
.
I do not remember a lot about my physics classes, but what I do remember is that the stress on the clutch would be much greater in a higher gear, which as others have said, any slippage should be felt more in higher gears then in first.
To the OP: who built your motor for those numbers, and did they, to the best of your knowledge, do any clutch upgrades to support those numbers?
How long ago was it done and how long have you noticed this problem?
Also, what did they use to tune the bike, and have you gone through the tune to see if there are any limiters in place (like throttle blade control)?
.
Thread Starter
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 1,297
Likes: 57
From: N. IL
With the first gear being the lowest gear. It is multiplying the torque output from the motor at a much higher rate for n the following gears. So, technically slipping in first should be easy. Hard launches, 100hp and a passenger from time to time could help expediate the process.
And it doesn't happen until a push the bike.
Dragos Bike Works did the tune. Frank used my powervision tuner on the Dyno. No clutch upgrades were done. Bikes been upgraded for a couple three years now.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 714
Likes: 53
problem solved
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Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 14,156
Likes: 11,244
From: San Diego, CA
I've never done it through the derby cover, I always took off the outer primary... but...
In the install pics for Fuelmoto's AIM / Custom Variable Pressure Clutch, it looks like it could be done... You could always try it and if it doesn't work then just drain the primary fluid and pull the cover...
Look at the pics under installation instructions...
https://www.fuelmotousa.com/i-208592...%7Cyear%3D2012