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You are reading the amperage between the disconnected negative battery cable and the negative post on the battery?
You have already gone through the disconnecting fuse process, so try this...
Disconnect the positive cable, if the reading stays the same, throw the meter into the trash can.
Well great idea but even if the meter is bad, and it isn't, that doesn't fix my battery drain.
Unhooked the positive cable a the starter. No change. Found a break in the insulation of the main fuse feed wire where it was rubbing on the frame. Not the problem now since it wasn't arcing yet but fixed this before a future problem. Pulling out the fuse box now to inspect the rest of the wire.
Before you get too carried away get another meter. If you pulled the main fuse and you think you still have a5 amp draw how is it getting past the empty main fuse holder to the fuse box?
Are you sure you got the scale right? Not being a smart ***. Old timers hate auto scaling.
That seems like a lot. I am surprised you don't smell it burning insulation. But I never measure a fault to know.
Maybe turn all the lights off and see if you see a spark. I doubt it, but its free and easy.
All you can do split the circuits up.
You are using a DC clamp on?
Yup. Scales correct. Its not a clamp on. Fluke meter in series between negative battery terminal and negative battery cable. Yes it is a big draw but don't smell anything burning,,,,,yet.
Getting somewhere now. Have been testing circuits individually and reconnecting if no problem or change in amperage found. After going through things several times I started leaving things unhooked as I tested. What I found at this point is if my amp and main fuse are pulled at the same time. Current drops to zero. If either one is connected without the other it is reading the full draw. The pic shows with the amp fuse out and the main still in. Vice versa is same amperage reading. Amp is connected direct to the battery (yellow lead with fuse out)
Last edited by Litewings; Oct 9, 2019 at 04:48 PM.
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