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Parasitic battery drain

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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 05:16 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by Litewings
Getting somewhere now. Have been testing circuits individually and reconnecting if no problem or change in amperage found. After going through things several times I started leaving things unhooked as I tested. What I found at this point is if my amp and main fuse are pulled at the same time. Current drops to zero. If either one is connected without the other it is reading the full draw. The pic shows with the amp fuse out and the main still in. Vice versa is same amperage reading. Amp is connected direct to the battery (yellow lead with fuse out)

Dude.
You are doing it wrong!!

No wonder your reading is so high. Put the red lead in the 10a port, and the black lead in COMmon.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 05:40 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by NorthWestern
Dude.
You are doing it wrong!!

No wonder your reading is so high. Put the red lead in the 10a port, and the black lead in COMmon.
Well for f---s sake your right. Have my dumbass hat on today. Still have a high leak though. .67 amps. Thanks for the slap in the head!
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 05:48 PM
  #23  
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Grasping at straws. Wonder if there is a shorted diode in the voltage regulator. Suggest disconnecting both VR plugs and try your test again.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 05:57 PM
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Thanks Vernal and Northwestern for the slap to the head. Still have a rather high amperage leak though using the correct meter configuration. Short history of the original problem. Had not rode the bike for 7-10 days. Decided to put the battery tender on. Next day, tender still yellow light. Knew this isn't a good sign. Tested battery voltage, less than 6v. Hooked up the battery charger for a day at slow rate. Voltage back to normal. Rode a few times with no more than a day in between rides. No problems starting. Let set a few days without battery tender and back to same issue of low voltage. Did charge the battery today and did a load lest and it was good. Battery also held voltage overnight with cable unhooked. Still looking for the leak although not as bad as I thought it was.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 06:25 PM
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Don’t be too hard on yourself it’s an easy mistake to make.

Now go back to the beginning with all the fuses in and see where the draw leads you.

Check you battery tender connector with your volt meter, 12 v means the inline fuse is good.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 06:38 PM
  #26  
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I prefer DC clamp on, lot easier to use. They have come down in price for the consumer level I believe.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 07:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Litewings
Well for f---s sake your right. Have my dumbass hat on today. Still have a high leak though. .67 amps. Thanks for the slap in the head!
All good, brother, it happens.

.67 makes me wonder if you have an open diode in the charging system. I know how to check on an automotive alternator, and I suspect in your system it would be in the VR ?? I need to do some google-fu...
 
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Old Oct 9, 2019 | 09:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by NorthWestern
All good, brother, it happens.

.67 makes me wonder if you have an open diode in the charging system. I know how to check on an automotive alternator, and I suspect in your system it would be in the VR ?? I need to do some google-fu...
While checking circuits, I did pull the lead off the regulator (next in line after the main fuse according to the schematic) and no change. Will start this whole operation over with the correct meter setup next.
Thanks
 

Last edited by Litewings; Oct 9, 2019 at 09:30 PM.
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Old Oct 11, 2019 | 05:10 PM
  #29  
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Did all the testing again with the meter set-up correctly . Have an issue with my radio (sony head unit) or that circuit. Pulling the memory fuse drops the amperage drain down to .07 amp. I'm guessing this draw is the security system so all is good. The Sony has had some issues this year so time for replacement. Thanks for the help all.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2019 | 06:16 PM
  #30  
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Thanks for posting all of this, I have found it informative for when I have to search for electrical gremlins!
 
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