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First time going to adjust a new clutch that was installed last year on my 07 RK. I did not do the install. When I pulled the sleeve back on the cable I noticed there wasnt much room to loosen the slack on the lever that much. With the cable fully collapsed the lever itself still felt like it had some tension in it. Is that normal ?
secondly, I cant get the nut loosened down at the basket and i dont want to round the nut out. You guys recommend that special socket meant for this ? I attached a picture of the clutch cable locknut and its position.
I took a spare deep socket and ground flats on it with the bench grinder until it fit one of my open end wrenches perfectly. I use that along with a T-handle Allen through the center to hold the adjuster while tightening the nut.
I took a spare deep socket and ground flats on it with the bench grinder until it fit one of my open end wrenches perfectly. I use that along with a T-handle Allen through the center to hold the adjuster while tightening the nut.
ok cool. Does that cable look normal ? Never seen the locknut that far forward before letting up slack .
Looks closer to the end than mine generally does. Was it just a new OE clutch or something else? Make sure also after collapsing, to work the lever a few times for seating the ***** on the ramp assembly prior to readjusting.
Looks closer to the end than mine generally does. Was it just a new OE clutch or something else? Make sure also after collapsing, to work the lever a few times for seating the ***** on the ramp assembly prior to readjusting.
Something else I believe. Work the lever before loosening the locknut and screw ?
I can't tell from your picture if that is an after market cable that works differently than the factory cable. The exposed part could just be the "nut" portion to adjust the cable and not be the lock nut at all. Pull the cover one way or the other to expose the entire adjuster so we can really see what you have. Most people have the opposite problem from what you believe you have, they are close to running out of adjustment when the adjuster is almost UNscrewed all the way. The manual makes too big a deal out of holding the center screw while tightening the lock nut. Finger tighten the lock nut after you get the adjuster where you want it and don't let the adjuster move while doing that. Then the final torquing of the lock nut only requires about 1/16 of a turn, not much change to the over all adjuster setting. I just back out my adjuster an extra 1/16 of a turn to allow for setting the lock nut. Unless you decide to go with only the 1/2 turn, it isn't that critical anyway. Going with 3/4 to one turn out means that 1/16 turn to set the lock nut isn't worth worrying about.
I can't tell from your picture if that is an after market cable that works differently than the factory cable. The exposed part could just be the "nut" portion to adjust the cable and not be the lock nut at all. Pull the cover one way or the other to expose the entire adjuster so we can really see what you have. Most people have the opposite problem from what you believe you have, they are close to running out of adjustment when the adjuster is almost UNscrewed all the way. The manual makes too big a deal out of holding the center screw while tightening the lock nut. Finger tighten the lock nut after you get the adjuster where you want it and don't let the adjuster move while doing that. Then the final torquing of the lock nut only requires about 1/16 of a turn, not much change to the over all adjuster setting. I just back out my adjuster an extra 1/16 of a turn to allow for setting the lock nut. Unless you decide to go with only the 1/2 turn, it isn't that critical anyway. Going with 3/4 to one turn out means that 1/16 turn to set the lock nut isn't worth worrying about.
Ok thanks. My biggest issue right now is cracking that locknut loose. These idiots who put the clutch in really torqued it down.
Be sure you are gong the correct direction, that is a standard right-hand thread so leftie-loosie. Some people put the bike in gear so the engine will run out of travel and then have to turn the transmission and rear wheel so you can use more force before the engine begins to rotate. I use a breaker bar with the 11/16 deep well socket (if I remember correctly) and sharply hit the end of the breaker bar with the heel of my hand and that has always broken the nut loose. Also, when you re-tighten the nut, I believe the torque is 120 INCH pounds, not a lot. On my scooter, that corresponds to the force needed to rotate the crankshaft/clutch. Tighten until the hub moves just a little and I'm done.
Be sure you are gong the correct direction, that is a standard right-hand thread so leftie-loosie. Some people put the bike in gear so the engine will run out of travel and then have to turn the transmission and rear wheel so you can use more force before the engine begins to rotate. I use a breaker bar with the 11/16 deep well socket (if I remember correctly) and sharply hit the end of the breaker bar with the heel of my hand and that has always broken the nut loose. Also, when you re-tighten the nut, I believe the torque is 120 INCH pounds, not a lot. On my scooter, that corresponds to the force needed to rotate the crankshaft/clutch. Tighten until the hub moves just a little and I'm done.
How did you hold the adjuster screw while you did that?
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07 Road King clutch ajust
