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I have a 2010 Ultra w/ newly installed 103 (via Longblock Program), new compensator, clutch, stator, se 255 cams, air cleaner and Rinehart Pipes. Bike runs great. My questions are:
You didn't mention if you had pipes or hi-flo air cleaner, but if the engine is stock, a tuner is not needed. Nor is it needed if you replace pipes OR air cleaner, but if you do BOTH, you need to tune it. The SE street tuner is pretty much useless, there are a lot of different aftermarket tuners that will give you what you want.
You didn't mention if you had pipes or hi-flo air cleaner, but if the engine is stock, a tuner is not needed. Nor is it needed if you replace pipes OR air cleaner, but if you do BOTH, you need to tune it. The SE street tuner is pretty much useless, there are a lot of different aftermarket tuners that will give you what you want.
I just updated... Rinehart Pipes. Darn it!!!! And yes air cleaner too...
So it will make a difference if I get a tuner? What can I expect?
I'm probably misunderstanding your original post...... BUT.....
If I may ask.....was your bike a stock, OEM 103" before the longblock program engine was installed....??
And now you have a 103", with cams, high flow A/C and high flow exhaust....???
Are you running on the same tune as the OEM engine...???
If you are running on the stock tune, with a modified 103" engine (Stage II, cams, air cleaner, & exhaust ).... STOP RIDING IT UNTIL YOU GET IT TUNED..!!!!!
You have more air going through the engine than before... Your computer will NOT be able to adjust enough to compensate for this... in the parts of the tune that are open loop (no feedback from O2 sensors) you WILL BE lean, maybe EXTREMELY LEAN... That part of the tune is the high load/high rpm sections of the tune where AFR is most critical..
Please stop riding and get it tuned. You could damage your new engine, riding on the old OEM tune...!!!
Last edited by hattitude; Jun 3, 2020 at 03:58 PM.
Just for interest on this thread here is what my 2010 FLHTCU is: was a 103 HD stage 2 with SE255 cams, SE air cleaner and SE fatshot mufflers. Crank failed so engine all rebuilt. Now bored one size over, heads ported, bronze guides, same SE255 cam, same SE air cleaner intake, cat removed, same fat shot mufflers, compression 10.2:1, crank is balanced and welded. Had a SE tuner (from the stage 2 build) and shop used that with a dyno tune. Bike runs much better, rarely has a decel pop, seems to run very well. Power is adequate.
I'm probably misunderstanding your original post...... BUT.....
If I may ask.....was your bike a stock, OEM 103" before the longblock program engine was installed....??
And now you have a 103", with cams, high flow A/C and high flow exhaust....???
Are you running on the same tune as the OEM engine...???
If you are running on the stock tune, with a modified 103" engine (Stage II, cams, air cleaner, & exhaust ).... STOP RIDING IT UNTIL YOU GET IT TUNED..!!!!!
You have more air going through the engine than before... Your computer will NOT be able to adjust enough to compensate for this... in the parts of the tune that are open loop (no feedback from O2 sensors) you WILL BE lean, maybe EXTREMELY LEAN... That part of the tune is the high load/high rpm sections of the tune where AFR is most critical..
Please stop riding and get it tuned. You could damage your new engine, riding on the old OEM tune...!!!
This exactly happend to my 2010 FXSTC 103 upgrade. The lean condition heat caused the Rush mufflers to discolor, which highlighted the problem. Put an SE race tuner in it, on the dyno and Rush was kind enough to provide new mufflers and all has been good for 10 years.
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Do I need a tuner?
