Handlebar polyurethane bushing replacement w/fairing
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Tourer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 322
Likes: 11
From: Rapid City, SD
Handlebar polyurethane bushing replacement w/fairing
Howdy! I'm going to replace the handlebar bushings on my '04 Electraglide Classic... Will removing the ignition and fairing cap alone be enough to move the bars/risers/clamps back towards the gas tank to remove the bushings? I was hoping I could do this job without having to move the inner fairing/entire fairing assembly. There is an earlier post on this from a few years ago and I'm just looking for a little clarification.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 730
Likes: 227
From: Lagoa - VNF
it is enough... I just tried doing that on mine just to find out the replacement bushings I had are for 'other harleys' and the electra is different (smaller)... but could remove them easily - just plan it well - along these lines
remove the key in an UNLOCKED position so you can move the bars
remove the cover, put it aside
un-fasten 50% of one side, turn bars, remove the other side's screw... replace the rubber, fasten 50%, move to the other side, remove screw, replace rubber, fasten 100%, go to the other side, fasten 100%... you get the idea. just dont remove both screws holding the riser at the same time as that could cause damage.
remove the key in an UNLOCKED position so you can move the bars
remove the cover, put it aside
un-fasten 50% of one side, turn bars, remove the other side's screw... replace the rubber, fasten 50%, move to the other side, remove screw, replace rubber, fasten 100%, go to the other side, fasten 100%... you get the idea. just dont remove both screws holding the riser at the same time as that could cause damage.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 420
Likes: 64
From: Southern Bear Flag
I just replaced my stock rubber bushings with a set of Drag Specialties poly bushings and it was a pain in the **** to get them in. I was also replacing my stock handlebars with some apes at the time, but regardless heres a few tips;
-Put the new poly bushings in the freezer for a few hours or even a day before you install them.
-Use a silicon lube on the inside and outside of the bushings to get them in the bore of the top triple tree and also to help install the metal sleeves which can be super tight.
-Keep the handlebars bolted to the risers and just tip or move them back toward the tank (with it covered with a blanket of course), this will save you the headache of having to align the bottom risers as you put the riser bolt back in. Removing and/or tipping the inner fairing back helps the handlebars and risers clear everything to be able to maneuver the top bushings in and also the metal sleeves.
-Dont forger the red loctite on the riser bolts
-Cant remember what year youre working on, but my 07 had a small washer on the right side between the riser and stock metal washer on top of the top bushing to even things out as the left side has the ground washer between the bottom riser and top bushing.
-Getting everything back together is much more difficult than getting it out. I ended up having to start each set of bushings and inner metal sleeve with a dead blow and large C clamp and finish seating the lower bushing as I torqued the bolt to the final tightness, iirc 35 ft lbs.
HTH
-Put the new poly bushings in the freezer for a few hours or even a day before you install them.
-Use a silicon lube on the inside and outside of the bushings to get them in the bore of the top triple tree and also to help install the metal sleeves which can be super tight.
-Keep the handlebars bolted to the risers and just tip or move them back toward the tank (with it covered with a blanket of course), this will save you the headache of having to align the bottom risers as you put the riser bolt back in. Removing and/or tipping the inner fairing back helps the handlebars and risers clear everything to be able to maneuver the top bushings in and also the metal sleeves.
-Dont forger the red loctite on the riser bolts
-Cant remember what year youre working on, but my 07 had a small washer on the right side between the riser and stock metal washer on top of the top bushing to even things out as the left side has the ground washer between the bottom riser and top bushing.
-Getting everything back together is much more difficult than getting it out. I ended up having to start each set of bushings and inner metal sleeve with a dead blow and large C clamp and finish seating the lower bushing as I torqued the bolt to the final tightness, iirc 35 ft lbs.
HTH
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 730
Likes: 227
From: Lagoa - VNF
yeah... so the proper bushings got here today, and the job is done - did not touch the fairings, just that switch cover was removed. a bit of a PITA but definitely doable. some extra hints
- do the right side first (loosen left to 50% then do the right)
- before going back to the left, screw the right side all the way in, then loosen back to 50%. if the bushing is not completely inside the effing handlebar wont turn... haha
- to make the treads engage, it is necessary to push the bars to the front and to the top... be *very* patient those threads are a dog to engage with everything attached.
- to fit the bushing in... the easiest way I could find is to put the sleeve in, then fit that from the bottom... then do the top one while holding the bottom in place as best as u can - then you can use the riser as leverage to squeeze the ****er in.
and wow... night and day difference.much tighter! - hated the way my bars shaked @ idle, that is 90% gone! money well spent.
- do the right side first (loosen left to 50% then do the right)
- before going back to the left, screw the right side all the way in, then loosen back to 50%. if the bushing is not completely inside the effing handlebar wont turn... haha
- to make the treads engage, it is necessary to push the bars to the front and to the top... be *very* patient those threads are a dog to engage with everything attached.
- to fit the bushing in... the easiest way I could find is to put the sleeve in, then fit that from the bottom... then do the top one while holding the bottom in place as best as u can - then you can use the riser as leverage to squeeze the ****er in.
and wow... night and day difference.much tighter! - hated the way my bars shaked @ idle, that is 90% gone! money well spent.
Last edited by b0fh; Aug 5, 2020 at 05:57 PM.
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