Oil change question
As long as I can remember, the rule has been to fill the primary to the bottom of the clutch spring with the bike standing upright... some aftermarket clutches call for less...
EDIT:
I just checked a few of my service manuals... my '12 & '16 Touring, don't have a pic, and only give both wet & dry fluid oz amounts, to fill the primary...
My 2003 Softail Service manual has the the left half of that pic, saying, "The primary chaincase lubricant level is acceptable when lubricant is visible between the clutch and the inner wall of chaincase with motorcycle standing upright." Section: General, Heading: Primary Chaincase Lubricant, page 1-26

My 2002 Softail Service manual has the right half of that pic, saying, " b. The primary chaincase lubricant should be level with the bottom edge of the clutch diaphragm spring, approximately 26 oz (768.9ml)." Section: General, Heading: Primary Chaincase Lubricant, page 1-23
Last edited by hattitude; Aug 19, 2020 at 09:31 PM.
Forgot to add, my Walmart "kit" arrived and I changed the engine oil yesterday. Was looking over individual pieces and its better to order the 6pk of Mobil1 Vtwin, and separate BLACK K&N filter.
Forgot to add, my Walmart "kit" arrived and I changed the engine oil yesterday. Was looking over individual pieces and its better to order the 6pk of Mobil1 Vtwin, and separate BLACK K&N filter.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
I have gotten away from the synthetics in my motor, and am back into the Valvoline oils (VR1) in my bikes due to the high zinc content, and they do not thin down to nothing when they get hot. But I change my engine oil every 3000 miles, the other 2 holes are every 6K
I am still using Bel-Ray or quality synth in the other holes.
as for K&N, I have never heard anyone say anything bad about them, when in doubt check out the BoB Is The Oil Guy website he has tested them all














