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When "turning the bright lights on" do you mean full beam or normal low beam running? What type of light is it OEM, standard incandescent or aftermarket LED, what is the wattage rating of your light at low/full beam and what is the amperage rating of the fuse? Disconnect the light insulate the connector and does the fuse still rupture when you switch to low/full beam? If so the issue is with your relay, switch or wiring and not the lamp itself.
There is scant detail in your post and nobody will be able to realistically offer you much help unless you include more information unfortunately. Give people that are willing to assist more to work with.
What type of light is it OEM, standard incandescent or aftermarket LED, what is the wattage rating of your light at full beam and what is the amperage rating of the fuse? Disconnect the light insulate the connector and does the fuse still rupture when you switch to full beam? If so the issue is with your relay or wiring and not the lamp itself.
There is scant detail in your post and nobody will be able to realistically offer you much help unless you include more information unfortunately.
When was it fitted and by whom? Was it direct plug and play? Many of them you have to cut and splice to get them to work on certain models. Did you have issues with the fuse rupturing before the Daymaker was fitted? And I'll ask again, what is the amperage rating of the fuse currently fitted? Do as I suggested disconnect the Daymaker and operate the lights, does the fuse still rupture? Whilst you're there give the wiring a MK1 eyeball check and get back.
The fuse is massively over-rated a Daymaker should only pull about 2.5 amps. The fuse should be only 5 amps maximum. If you have a high resistance your wiring could burn out before the fuse would rupture. First thing ditch the fuse for a lower rated one. I suspect you have an intermittent short, probably (this is only speculation) at the light connection/splices?
The fuse is massively over-rated a Daymaker should only pull about 2.5 amps. The fuse should be only 5 amps maximum. If you have a high resistance your wiring could burn out before the fuse would rupture. First thing ditch the fuse for a lower rated one. I suspect you have an intermittent short, probably (this is only speculation) at the light connection/splices?
When I get off work today I will check the connections
Thanks for the help when I find out what is wrong I will reach out to you and let you know
The fuse is massively over-rated a Daymaker should only pull about 2.5 amps. The fuse should be only 5 amps maximum. If you have a high resistance your wiring could burn out before the fuse would rupture. First thing ditch the fuse for a lower rated one. I suspect you have an intermittent short, probably (this is only speculation) at the light connection/splices?
A 15 Amp fuse would be normal for that bike. The wiring is designed to handle that current. He should not replace it with a lower rated fuse. Instead, he will need to find the short & repair it. Checking the wiring with the daymaker light disconnected is a good place to start troubleshooting. It's doubtful the light itself is shorted, but if the fuse doesn't blow with the light disconnected, it will be suspect & probably should be replaced or very carefully tested.
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