Re-Routing Cables
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 42
Likes: 1
From: Texas
Re-Routing Cables
I have a 2012 Ultra Classic that I am adding the Yaffee 10 inch Bars to. I have seen that there is no need to add any length to cables or wires. Is there re-routing of wires or cables involved or do they go back the way I found them?
If any of you have done this and have pictures please share. I have watched a lot of youtube videos that show the process but don't say much about the actual routing of the cable and wires.
Thanks
If any of you have done this and have pictures please share. I have watched a lot of youtube videos that show the process but don't say much about the actual routing of the cable and wires.
Thanks
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,999
Likes: 85
From: Charlotte Metro
You’ll need +4 clutch cable to do it right. The 2 main connectors that mount on either side of radio will need to need be dropped under radio. Cut green connector out and solder shrink wrap throttle by wire or buy SE new style.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,999
Likes: 85
From: Charlotte Metro
I bought Barnett +4 clutch cable. Also bought several sizes shrink wrap to protect wires in handlebar harnesses Harbor Freight. I think I posted more details when did it search is your friend.
Tourer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 420
Likes: 64
From: Southern Bear Flag
I installed 12 LA Chopper Twin Peaks and didnt have to change out any of my stock wires or cables and even ran the handlebar control wires internally. The wiring plugs needed to be re-routed a bit closer up next to the radio from their stock locations behind the headlight and the clutch cable needed to run closer to the neck of the triple tree. My stock brake line had plenty of slack in it, however it was the stock black vinyl line from a 2017 Road King.
I think your problem will be the fly-by-wire wiring inside the handlebars. I do not think your stock length wires will be long enough to make it through the new handlebars to reach the plug under the fairing. A new extended harness isnt very expensive and the rest of your handlebar control wires and lines should have enough slack once theyre re-routed under the fairing.
I can take a few pictures of how I re-routed mine on my 07 if youd like.
I think your problem will be the fly-by-wire wiring inside the handlebars. I do not think your stock length wires will be long enough to make it through the new handlebars to reach the plug under the fairing. A new extended harness isnt very expensive and the rest of your handlebar control wires and lines should have enough slack once theyre re-routed under the fairing.
I can take a few pictures of how I re-routed mine on my 07 if youd like.
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Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2020
Posts: 42
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From: Texas
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Joined: Aug 2020
Posts: 89
Likes: 60
From: Fresno/Rosarito Beach
I just did this last month on my 2008 SG, wired internally in the bars, and I didnt need to extend any wires or buy any new cables.
The harness plugs on each side of the radio and the throttle by wire plug need to be rerouted to connect underneath the radio. The clutch cable needs to be disconnected from the perch and pushed through the rubber grommet so you can reroute it in the fairing and find extra slack before pushing it back through the grommet. The brake line needs to be slightly loosened at the reservoir banjo bolt, turned downward to align with the new bars, and then retightened. I still have full-lock range of turning without anything being stretched too tight.
I did not eliminated the green throttle by wire plug connection inside the bars since it ended up being close to the hole where the wires exit underneath the right side controls and I can change the throttle by wire unit easily if it should go bad.
If running internally, youll need to strip off the outer factory wire casing and replace it with heat shrink. The factory wire casing is too big to slide through the bars.
Give yourself plenty of time if and be patient guiding the wires through the bars. You dont want to nick or break the wires or damage the pin connectors. As crazy as it sounds, I had good luck using a water based sex lube to help slide the wires through the bars. The corners with the meat hooks are a b!+c#!!!
The harness plugs on each side of the radio and the throttle by wire plug need to be rerouted to connect underneath the radio. The clutch cable needs to be disconnected from the perch and pushed through the rubber grommet so you can reroute it in the fairing and find extra slack before pushing it back through the grommet. The brake line needs to be slightly loosened at the reservoir banjo bolt, turned downward to align with the new bars, and then retightened. I still have full-lock range of turning without anything being stretched too tight.
I did not eliminated the green throttle by wire plug connection inside the bars since it ended up being close to the hole where the wires exit underneath the right side controls and I can change the throttle by wire unit easily if it should go bad.
If running internally, youll need to strip off the outer factory wire casing and replace it with heat shrink. The factory wire casing is too big to slide through the bars.
Give yourself plenty of time if and be patient guiding the wires through the bars. You dont want to nick or break the wires or damage the pin connectors. As crazy as it sounds, I had good luck using a water based sex lube to help slide the wires through the bars. The corners with the meat hooks are a b!+c#!!!
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,343
Likes: 173
From: Watertown, CT
Harley extended Clutch cable
A New Barnett premium six inch over clutch cable
Though I could use it but longer than I need . Never installed but package is open.
Paid $103.00 But will take a loss. . $65.00 including shipping in the US.
A New Barnett premium six inch over clutch cable
Though I could use it but longer than I need . Never installed but package is open.
Paid $103.00 But will take a loss. . $65.00 including shipping in the US.
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