I have a 00 Road Glide fuel injected model . Well I go out start it in the morning starts beautifully. Runs about 3 mins and dies . Will not start again until next day . So dealership tells me I need a new FP . Did that and same result . My question is , Is it possible the the fuel filter is so plugged that overnight the pressure from fuel pump is able to bleed down enough fuel through clogged filter filling the line overnight to run for 3 mins then just die again ? Do I need a new filter ? Probability?

 

Just for the heck of it I would of changed the filter same time as the pump .Not sure on the problem.

 

Have you peeked into the tank to see if it’s peeling? My ‘02 shed tons of liner and only became an issue where I had to remedy it earlier this year. You’ll have to take the console off to see clearly.
Certainly fuel delivery should be ruled out first.

 

Your on the right track , fuel filter prob needs changing if it's never been done . I would also look at your fuel quick connect and make sure the seals are good and the quick connect is fully seated . Try disconnecting it and check the o-rings , when you reinstall , wipe a little motor oil on them .

 

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Fuel pump to fuel filter on rubber line, then filter to quick disconnect on ribbed plastic line (know to to crack). From there, you have external fuel line to inlet on intake manifold and injectors, then fuel pressure regulator that dumps any fuel above 62lbs back to return line, through disconnect valve, and back into the tank.
Note, on the older fuel filter, they are just paper type elements, so if they become clogged, you just back blow them until the air runs freely through them, and still good to reuse.

On older units with solid rubbing lines in the tank, you would just open the tank cap, turn the bike on to let it prime, and listen for the gushing of the fuel back to the tank. With the plastic ribbed line that are know to crack, could be returning fuel you are hearing or could be cranked line on the supply side that your hearing instead.

On the intake manifold, the top flat flange type nut between the injectors removed not only the top plate, but allows the fuel regulator bracket to be dropped out the bottom, so the fuel regulator can be pulled as well.

As for what is controlling the fuel injectors through the ecm, its the cam shaft position sensor in the hose cone on the right hand side of the motor.
Hence pull codes to see if you have a code for a bad cam shaft position sensor that may have melted.

Hence the epoxy is a semi heat transfer media as well, and when it starts to melt from heat, the sensor over heats to take it out as well.


How to pull codes with jumper wires on your bike. Your going to get rapid light blink, the if you have codes, the light will slow blink for the first number ,will have a slight pause, the start the second set of slow blinks to give you the second number, the if more codes, again with slow blink for the first number, then pause, then slow blinks again for the second number and so on. Once it has give you any/all the codes, will start to rapid blink again, the go back to slow blink to give you the first number, slight pause, slow blinks again for the second number of the code again.
https://itstillruns.com/pull-engine-...n-5556684.html

So could just be a quick disconnect fittings on the bottom of the tank that it's male side is not seated all the way to block fuel flow, could be cracked ribbed fuel line on the supply side that is leaking before the fuel is making it way to the disconnect fitting, could be clogged fuel filter/injectors, or even fuel filter screen from liner peeling off the inner tank, or could be cam shaft position sensor bad instead.

Note, the spark is controlled off the engine crank position sensor, on the front left of the motor, and again, if either sensor is having problems, will get a Code for it when you check codes. Also to note, may want to pull the right hand side cover to make sure that the crank position sensor have not come undone. It's a turn type lock that locks it in place to each other on the connector, and it can untwist to come unlocked to cause sensor reading problems.

As for taking the bike to the shop to have the fuel pump replaced, my guess is that all this may be over your head, and may be time to take the bike back in the shop again if the problem is not just a disconnect fitting that the male hose side has not been seated all the way up to allow the outer shield of the fitting to fully pop down.