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I have a similar setup as another forum member has in the pic below but I have a Wally's Oil Temp gauge mounted to the brass fitting in the side of the oil pan.
But is the actual oil pan drain plug the one in the in the farbottom corner (closest front plug to the horn side)???
Yikes - Mobil V-twin at Autozone is $9 a quart!!!!!
My local AutoZone doesn't carry it anymore, and my local Walmart stopped too. Now sure where I'm going to get it now............probably have to special order it from somewheres.
Oh my Jesus that engine oil change was freakin' easy - mykids could have done it.
Sorry I had to ask. Saved time and money. Nice design - drains bone empty and quick if warm.
Complete oil/filter change and cleanup in under 15 minutes.
5000 miles on the V-Twin oil and it was blackerthan the ace of spades.
Now I need to get educated on the primary (Redline MTL) and tranny (Redline shockproof heavy). Just as easy??? What about the clutch???
The tranny looks like there is a vertical bolt on the underside of the pan - correct???
The primary looks like it drains from a small plug on the side on the bottom of the casing - correct??? How do you fill it???
Next time I hope to do all three holes at once.
Hmmmmm - 3 holes - its just like nature designed them
If I had an $18K Road King I'd spring for the $60 service manual...............oh wait, I did.WELL worth it for ALL sorts of good info. It resides right next to my Man Chair!
Yep, primary is the screw under the derby cover. You will want to remove both the derby cover and the chain inspectioncover (the rather square plate in front of the derby). You might be able to reuse the gaskets, I did.You will want to replace the o ring on the drain screw. It is smaller than the oil and trans o ring, and brown (in color). The manual says to fill through derby opening, when the bike is level. I found it easier to level the bike and fill through the chain inspection cover. While you have the covers off, check things out. You might need to make a chain adjustment. Easy enough, once you figure it out. I loosened the nut for the adjuster (9/16" I believe). While it is loose, I used a set of needle nose channel locks to grab the nut, and pulled it toward me. This makes sliding the adjuster up, easier. Once you have it adjusted, I used a screw driver under the adjuster to hold it in place, and tighten the bolt. The trans is cake. Drain and fill. I found that using some liquid threadlocker on the drain screws/plugs helped stop from leaking. I had a bad o ring on the primary drain, even after replacing it. That, or I tightened it to tight and ripped it. But, I had a leak. I had to drain the whole primary and start over. I used thread tape (I had on hand) and the second time, no leak. Make sure you add the correct amount of fluid. I over filled the trans, which blew a seal. I was able to get it fixed, for free, under warranty. I believe the trans is 24oz. But make sure, first.
ORIGINAL: dchoran
Now I need to get educated on the primary (Redline MTL) and tranny (Redline shockproof heavy). Just as easy??? What about the clutch???
The tranny looks like there is a vertical bolt on the underside of the pan - correct???
The primary looks like it drains from a small plug on the side on the bottom of the casing - correct??? How do you fill it???
Next time I hope to do all three holes at once.
Hmmmmm - 3 holes - its just like nature designed them
Just did the other two holes - tranny and primary - both a piece of cake.
BUT, I may have over tightened the primary bolt and squished the O ring - got a small leak - about a drop a day.
Don't know why the service manual says to disconnect the battery (safety I guess) and also says to add oil to the primary through the clutch cover - which means removing the passenger footrest - I just added thru the chain inspection cover - seemed to work fine.
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