I know some years, the mileage is stored in the speedo, not sure when/if that switched to a BCM instead of the gauge itself... Historically, that's why the speedo gets married to the bike, so people can't swap lower mileage speedos between bikes... and the ability to change that usually doesn't happen at the dealer level...


FWIW.... I just read through the manual with my Twin Scan.. although it mentions speedo calibration AND pairing, it only tells how to calibrate the speedo. Unless I missed it, it doesn't appear to deal with that "vinerr" code...

From the instruction book...

"SPEEDOMETER CALIBRATION AND PAIRING

The Speedometer Calibration can be adjusted using the Twin Scan 4. First, read the calibration using "Read Cal". There are two methods of adjusting the calibration. 1) Using a GPS/Dyno/Radar, you can enter the actual speed of the vehicle and enter the speedometer indicated speed. Click "program" and the percentage change will be calculated and applied -or- 2) Enter a manually calculated calibration into the Manual Calibration box and click program."


Oops.... I missed VAFish's response above, or I was typing much slower than him at the same time....

 

i had gone to their website and read the manual. hadn't seen anything in reference to it either. @hatitude, the mileage has been stored in the bcm/ecm for quite a few years, but the speedo still marries to the bike. not sure why, if it is only a visual display for what is in the ecm, but, that's hd for you.

i was thinking of calling ts today and asking them that question. will update what they say.

 

so spoke with the dude from twin scan. at the moment, no, you cannot do that. he said that any bcm functions will not work with the m8 bikes and they are hoping for an update in the next 4 to 6 months. you'll be able to read/clear codes, datalog, but any functions with the bcm will not work.

with the twin cam, you should be able to.

 

Its gone a little off track here lol...

So I worked on the brake side a little this weekend and did a little more research.

Some guys are just running a new line from the caliper to the new MC and bypassing the ABS. I'm not really against losing my rear ABS so this is an option, I just don't really understand what to do with the existing line going in and out of the ABS module...if I just took the lines out isn't there now air getting in the ABS block?

The other option was to run a new line from the ABS block to the new MC...then back bleed with a syringe from the caliper forward, to the MC. But replacing the line from the ABS to the MC would introduce air into the ABS, I would think.

Still not totally clear on how to go about this, but I can't be the first one to replace a brake line in their garage with ABS.

 

Bypassing the ABS could cause issues... do you keep the rear wheel ABS sensor..?? If not you will throw a code... unless you disable the ABS all together and flash the bike... Not sure you will get a dealer to assist you with the removal of an ABS unit, might be afraid of liability...

FWIW...

I have flushed my 2016 ABS system twice, both front and rear. Once was with a vacuum bleeder, sucking fluid from the master to the caliper. Once was with the syringe method pushing the fluid from the caliper to the master....

Neither time did any air make it past the closed ABS valves and into the ABS unit. Both times, after the intial flush/bleed, I went for a ride, purposely activated the ABS several times, then re-flushed the systems... Again, no air got into the ABS unit.

I suspect if you just treat it like the ABS is a sealed system, change the lines and bleed the brakes, you will be OK... The key is NOT to let any air get past the closed ABS valves in the module... That shouldn't happen unless you activate the ABS module with air in the system, or leave the ABS module unattached to a filled line, long enough to allow gravity to possibly drain fluid past the closed ABS valves, thus allowing air into the module... I susopect they seal pretty well for that application, but don't know for sure...

If you want to be extra cautious... just don't allow the ABS module to lose much fluid, and/or gravity to draw fluid from the ABS module...

You could change the front line. Bleed with the syringe from the end of the line to the master cylinder, and then attach the line to the ABS module.

Disconnect the rear line from the caliper, but leave it attached to the ABS unit, and plug or elevate the end so gravity doesn't allow it to drain. Attach the new line to the rear caliper, bleed it with a syringe from the caliper to the line, and then attach it to the ABS... From there, you should only have a small amount of air, and you wouldn't have given the ABS valves any opportunity to leak fluid past the closed valves or let air get introduced through the closed ABS valves.

You could then just bleed as normal and be done...

Not sure if that made any sense, it did in my head... but that's what I would do...

If it fails, you'll need to get a tool or go to a dealer.... but that is worse case scenario..

Good luck..

 

OK OK you're starting to make me feel a little better. I have no idea how the ABS works and just kind of pictured the lines going into a block full of fluid. I wasn't thinking there were valves and such, duhhhh.

I only need to replace the front line of the rear brake (from the ABS block to the new MC)...the line from the rear caliper to the ABS block is perfectly fine.

So it sounds like I could take that front line out, install the new one, and then push fluid in from the caliper, forward to fill the MC. This would get fluid throughout and avoid air going into any ABS stuff....is that correct?

 

This should do ya just fine.
Don't try eliminating or by pass the abs. It would just add up to a headache for ya

WP

 

Ive done a couple of ABS brake lines from the MC to the ABS module. Pump the lever till you get pressure and then start bleeding at the Module. Itll take a while. I ran two small bottles of brake fluid through the bleeding process before i felt confident there was no air. Stuck the Maxi Fuse in the bike after that and fired it up with no issues. Also, after the bleeding of the ABS module I soaked all the bike with warm soap and water a few times. That brake fluid is hard on paint and powdercoat.. The solution to pollution is dilution.

 

Can you explain bleeding at the module a little bit? Where are you cracking open and where are you filling from?

My thought was to leave the ABS module alone pretty much. Replace new brake line from ABS module to new rear brake MC, then fill fluid from the rear caliper forward until the MC is full. Is that an issue?

 

More than one way to skin a cat, Im sure your method would work, too. I was cracking the brake line at the ABS module to do my bleeding. Filling the MC at the handlebar. Also, I filled the new line with brake fluid the best i could before I bolted to the MC.