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Bleeding ABS brakes

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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 08:30 AM
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Default Bleeding ABS brakes

2018 RGS with ABS that I'm adding mid controls to, which includes replacing the master cylinder and locating it in a different spot. I'll need to at least crack the rear brake line if not replace entirely.

I know at first it was said dealer only, but I know I've seen a lot of guys do it themselves now.

What do I need to know/what is different than bleeding older brakes? Do I need any special tools? Thanks.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 09:02 AM
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Subscribed. Interested in this as well.

Also wondering who the go-to for custom brake lines is??
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 09:11 AM
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I've replaced cables on three bikes and bled from bottom up. Had no issues. But that's me.

 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 10:20 AM
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The ABS module holds a small amount of fluid. As long as the ABS module isn't "activated" while there is air in the lines, thus allowing air into the ABS module, you can bleed ABS brakes just like any other brake system... without any specialty tools..

You can also flush your brake system, without any specialty tools, but it will leave a small amount of old fluid in the system, trapped in the ABS module. There is debate about if this old fluid leads to the issue with ABS modules, or just the fact that the ABS module can go long intervals without be activated, that causes the modules to have issues/fail. NOTE: Some will activate the ABS deliberately during a ride after a flush, to get the old fluid out of the ABS module, and then re flush the system to remove almost all the old fluid. I have done this in the past, but it is not as reliable, or as efficient, as using one of the available ABS tools..

Once air gets into the ABS module, or if you want to be sure to flush ALL the fluid & reliably activate the ABS module during the fluid flush, you will need a specialty tool that activates the ABS module during bleeding/flushing...

Obviously the dealer can do this for a price.. There are also other aftermarket tools that can be purchased so you can do it yourself..

There is a tool by ITM that gets good reviews. It is only a one trick pony, it is designed/made for activating the ABS for a fluid flush...

http://infotechmercenary.com/shop/

There is also the Daytona Twin Tec, Twin Scan 4 tool. It will do a proper activation of the ABS module for brake flushing/bleeding... but it does a whole lot more.. it is also a little more expensive than the above tool.

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx

I recently purchased the Twin Scan 4 tool... I like being able to do more, without the need to go to a dealer..
 

Last edited by hattitude; Jan 8, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 11:14 AM
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Where you at in MA? I have a Twin Scan 4 which has a bleed feature if you get in a bind.

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx

 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by chopper_man
Where you at in MA? I have a Twin Scan 4 which has a bleed feature if you get in a bind.

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx
Nice gesture.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by hattitude
The ABS module holds a small amount of fluid. As long as the ABS module isn't "activated" while there is air in the lines, thus allowing air into the ABS module, you can bleed ABS brakes just like any other brake system... without any specialty tools..

You can also flush your brake system, without any specialty tools, but it will leave a small amount of old fluid in the system, trapped in the ABS module. There is debate about if this old fluid leads to the issue with ABS modules, or just the fact that the ABS module can go long intervals without be activated, that causes the modules to have issues/fail. NOTE: Some will activate the ABS deliberately during a ride after a flush, to get the old fluid out of the ABS module, and then re flush the system to remove almost all the old fluid. I have done this in the past, but it is not as reliable, or as efficient, as using one of the available ABS tools..

Once air gets into the ABS module, or if you want to be sure to flush ALL the fluid & reliably activate the ABS module during the fluid flush, you will need a specialty tool that activates the ABS module during bleeding/flushing...

Obviously the dealer can do this for a price.. There are also other aftermarket tools that can be purchased so you can do it yourself..

There is a tool by ITM that gets good reviews. It is only a one trick pony, it is designed/made for activating the ABS for a fluid flush...

http://infotechmercenary.com/shop/

There is also the Daytona Twin Tec, Twin Scan 4 tool. It will do a proper activation of the ABS module for brake flushing/bleeding... but it does a whole lot more.. it is also a little more expensive than the above tool.

http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx

I recently purchased the Twin Scan 4 tool... I like being able to do more, without the need to go to a dealer..
This ^^^
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 12:49 PM
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FWIW I just (yesterday) bled with the InfoTechMercenary unit. Appears to have worked. I made racket as expected. Their customer service is 10star. I had a wire come loose under some shrink wrapping in the mfg process. I called them and they had a brand new harness shipped out that day! No arguing, no BS, just keeping customers happy. Kit comes with a fully functioning android ipad should you need one.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 12:56 PM
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I agree with all of the above. I can also say that a few months ago I got air in my front brake lines when flushing, and I just bled normally and it was fine. The issue is that once there is air in the lines, do not turn the ignition on or it will test the ABS module and fail. So you must be 100% certain there are no bubbles before turning the ignition on. I also recommend pulling the maxi fuse before doing brake lines on an ABS bike so you don't accidently turn it on.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2021 | 01:06 PM
  #10  
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Thanks everyone. Id rather not spend the money on that tool for this one time if i dont NEED to, which it sounds like i might not.
I guess I'll try doing it the conventional way and if I have any issues I can do it with the tool later, does that sound OK?

Since the caliper and half the line will have fluid in it but the new MC won't I'm thinking doing the syringe method and back bleeding from caliper into the MC would be the best.
This is for the REAR brake, i shoudlve mentioned that.
 
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