Bleeding ABS brakes
I know at first it was said dealer only, but I know I've seen a lot of guys do it themselves now.
What do I need to know/what is different than bleeding older brakes? Do I need any special tools? Thanks.
You can also flush your brake system, without any specialty tools, but it will leave a small amount of old fluid in the system, trapped in the ABS module. There is debate about if this old fluid leads to the issue with ABS modules, or just the fact that the ABS module can go long intervals without be activated, that causes the modules to have issues/fail. NOTE: Some will activate the ABS deliberately during a ride after a flush, to get the old fluid out of the ABS module, and then re flush the system to remove almost all the old fluid. I have done this in the past, but it is not as reliable, or as efficient, as using one of the available ABS tools..
Once air gets into the ABS module, or if you want to be sure to flush ALL the fluid & reliably activate the ABS module during the fluid flush, you will need a specialty tool that activates the ABS module during bleeding/flushing...
Obviously the dealer can do this for a price.. There are also other aftermarket tools that can be purchased so you can do it yourself..
There is a tool by ITM that gets good reviews. It is only a one trick pony, it is designed/made for activating the ABS for a fluid flush...
http://infotechmercenary.com/shop/
There is also the Daytona Twin Tec, Twin Scan 4 tool. It will do a proper activation of the ABS module for brake flushing/bleeding... but it does a whole lot more.. it is also a little more expensive than the above tool.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx
I recently purchased the Twin Scan 4 tool... I like being able to do more, without the need to go to a dealer..
Last edited by hattitude; Jan 8, 2021 at 10:51 AM.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx
You can also flush your brake system, without any specialty tools, but it will leave a small amount of old fluid in the system, trapped in the ABS module. There is debate about if this old fluid leads to the issue with ABS modules, or just the fact that the ABS module can go long intervals without be activated, that causes the modules to have issues/fail. NOTE: Some will activate the ABS deliberately during a ride after a flush, to get the old fluid out of the ABS module, and then re flush the system to remove almost all the old fluid. I have done this in the past, but it is not as reliable, or as efficient, as using one of the available ABS tools..
Once air gets into the ABS module, or if you want to be sure to flush ALL the fluid & reliably activate the ABS module during the fluid flush, you will need a specialty tool that activates the ABS module during bleeding/flushing...
Obviously the dealer can do this for a price.. There are also other aftermarket tools that can be purchased so you can do it yourself..
There is a tool by ITM that gets good reviews. It is only a one trick pony, it is designed/made for activating the ABS for a fluid flush...
http://infotechmercenary.com/shop/
There is also the Daytona Twin Tec, Twin Scan 4 tool. It will do a proper activation of the ABS module for brake flushing/bleeding... but it does a whole lot more.. it is also a little more expensive than the above tool.
http://www.daytona-twintec.com/twinscan3abs.aspx
I recently purchased the Twin Scan 4 tool... I like being able to do more, without the need to go to a dealer..
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I guess I'll try doing it the conventional way and if I have any issues I can do it with the tool later, does that sound OK?
Since the caliper and half the line will have fluid in it but the new MC won't I'm thinking doing the syringe method and back bleeding from caliper into the MC would be the best.
This is for the REAR brake, i shoudlve mentioned that.











