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Don't ride below 45 F. In neutral is OK, starts fine in neutral. Have to warm up 5 minutes before you can shift to 1st without jumping like hell, doesn't matter how much you work the clutch till it warms up 5 minutes.So, I shouldn't be able to push the bike around, not warmed, in gear, with clutch pulled ?
When the primary fluid gets cold, it gets thick and sticky.... It holds the clutch plates together until the fluid warms up (as you have witnessed with the above highlighted statement) or gets flung off the clutch plates while activating the clutch, prior to full warm-up...
When you pull the clutch and it's cold, on an engine that's not running, all the clutch plates aren't fully separating.... it's like the clutch is still partially engaged...
The type & weight of your primary fluid, can affect how long/strong this lasts on a cold primary/clutch plates...
Last edited by hattitude; Feb 23, 2021 at 09:05 PM.
Thanks Hattitude, ya' got me thinking (I know that's dangerous). When I did service on the Glide, about Fall 2020, they used Redline Syn. (?) 90W for the trans. I guess very good for summer, but sluggish for the winter. Thanks all. Ride On ! Bob
Thanks Hattitude, ya' got me thinking (I know that's dangerous). When I did service on the Glide, about Fall 2020, they used Redline Syn. (?) 90W for the trans. I guess very good for summer, but sluggish for the winter. Thanks all. Ride On ! Bob
hattitude was speaking not of transmission fluid. But. Primary fluid. I do not see a mention by you of what your are running in the primary. That makes a genuine difference. If you are running a heavy weight of chain lubricant in the primary it will have a detrimental event on how the clutch operates. I run a 5-20 weight oil in the primary. Honestly. I have never had a problem with cold clutch performance. But. I have no experience with the HD hydraulic clutch. My 1998 Valkryie has a hydraulic clutch. Never a problem with it.
Thanks OLD 96 for clarifying my comments.... I appreciate the assist....
OP.... It's hard to diagnose anything on the internet based on a written description... it IS possible, since you had the clutch recall done, that it wasn't done properly, or you have an ancillary problem with the clutch master cylinder..
However, based on your original post, and follow-up post, I suspect you are experiencing a typical, cold primary with sticky clutch plates...
Your comment, "Have to warm up 5 minutes before you can shift to 1st without jumping like hell"... suggests clutch plates that are not separating when the clutch lever is pulled. Your clutch stays partially engaged... A couple ways that can happen are due to a faulty clutch master cylinder or sticky clutch plates.. Looking at the rest of the information you posted, I'm betting on the cold primary, sticky clutch plates ... It is a known issue, and easy to check.. When the weather warms up, and the issue is significantly reduced and/or goes away entirely, you'll know it was just a cold primary...
If it doesn't go away, time to double check the work done on your clutch (inspect the master cylinder), check the fluid used in your primary (level, type, and/or weight), flush/ bleed the clutch fluid, and finally if all else doesn't work, inspect the clutch itself for an issue...
Based on your description, I do not believe your transmission, or transmission fluid, have anything to do with what you are experiencing.....
How does the clutch lever FEEL when this happens. If it has the normal resistance to being pulled in to the handle bar, the hydraulic system is OK. If you don't feel the normal resistance, you may have a leak in either the master or slave cylinder and the clutch truly isn't releasing. The actual clutches themselves are not much different between cable and hydraulic systems, only the release mechanisms are different. Wet clutches have a strong tendency to "glue" themselves together when they sit for a while and/or the primary lube is cold. In this case, it is true, they all do this, or at least most do.
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