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Any reason for there to be a thicker-than-spec alternator rotor spacer on my bike?
2000 Ultra Classic with 45-amp alternator.
Fried the stator at about 60k miles and installing a new one.
During re-assembly I decided to measure the thickness of the spacer that was in place, and it measures 0.145 inches, which is substantially more than the 0.055 inches spec'd in the FSM.
Had the motor rebuilt a few years ago by a highly regarded local indie, so I assume there's a reason for this uber-thick spacer but I can't reach him today and don't want to continue assembly until I know what's going on.
New 45-amp Cycle Electric stator on left FSM says this alternator rotor spacer should measure 0.055" but the one in place is 0.145"
If the engine builder is squared away, it all fit before, ran well for many miles, and you're replacing the rotor with a same sized part.... bolt it up (I forget the torque setting they use to align the sprockets) and use a straight edge to see if the engine sprocket teeth and clutch basket teeth are in alignment....
If the sprockets align, reassemble, torque it down, and ride...
My mate just had his TC88 rebuilt with a new crank, he has a super thick spacer like yours and an original - he's had the Timken bearing done and a new rotor.
Any reason for there to be a thicker-than-spec alternator rotor spacer on my bike?
2000 Ultra Classic with 45-amp alternator.
Fried the stator at about 60k miles and installing a new one.
During re-assembly I decided to measure the thickness of the spacer that was in place, and it measures 0.145 inches, which is substantially more than the 0.055 inches spec'd in the FSM.
Had the motor rebuilt a few years ago by a highly regarded local indie, so I assume there's a reason for this uber-thick spacer but I can't reach him today and don't want to continue assembly until I know what's going on.
New 45-amp Cycle Electric stator on left FSM says this alternator rotor spacer should measure 0.055" but the one in place is 0.145"
Originally Posted by HighLiner
Timken bearing lower?
Originally Posted by hattitude
If the engine builder is squared away, it all fit before, ran well for many miles, and you're replacing the rotor with a same sized part.... bolt it up (I forget the torque setting they use to align the sprockets) and use a straight edge to see if the engine sprocket teeth and clutch basket teeth are in alignment....
If the sprockets align, reassemble, torque it down, and ride...
Originally Posted by roundy
My mate just had his TC88 rebuilt with a new crank, he has a super thick spacer like yours and an original - he's had the Timken bearing done and a new rotor.
HighLiner, hattitude & roundy: I think that's exactly the case: The builder installed Timken while beefing up the lower end.
hattitude: After having paused to give it some thought, I came to the same conclusion: Trust the builder, put it back together and go. That's what I did and it worked out fine.
Originally Posted by EVOrider
I did notice youre installing a 45amp cycle electric stator.....hopefully with their regulator as well converting your bike to a 3-phase.
EVOrider: I probably should have done that, but I didn't learn about the option to go with a 3-phase system until after I had the single phase stator in hand, and just wanted to get back on the road. Next time I'll do that.
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Alternator Rotor Spacer Much Too Thick?
