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The service manual calls for new rotor bolts when replacing rotors. How necessary is this and why?
They are $50 bucks for the (10) needed for the front. I went ahead and picked them up, but was completely shocked at the price. Also, they have a factory-applied green thread locker on them.
If you get 30 replies to this there will ( probably ) be 15 that say replace and 15 that say what a waste of money ... I'm in the former group ... Good Luck
The service manual calls for new rotor bolts when replacing rotors. How necessary is this and why?
They are $50 bucks for the (10) needed for the front. I went ahead and picked them up, but was completely shocked at the price. Also, they have a factory-applied green thread locker on them.
I use new rotor bolts after 4 or 5 times in and out with a set. Have done this for years. I also wire wheel that dry patch junk off and use either a drop of red or blue and torque to spec. I use a sharpie to put a small index mark at the 12 o'clock position and check at times. Never had an issue.
I use new rotor bolts after 4 or 5 times in and out with a set. Have done this for years. I also wire wheel that dry patch junk off and use either a drop of red or blue and torque to spec. I use a sharpie to put a small index mark at the 12 o'clock position and check at times. Never had an issue.
I like that sharpie trick on every critical nut and bolt. Makes for a quick check when getting fuel or first startup of the day.
Like Klammer I have no issue reusing with NEW thread locker, that`s why the manual states one time use IMO
'But if you want new ones consider a bolt supplier
Example: McMaster-Carr # 90600A136 Stainless button heads 10pcs for $8
You could get black oxide , your choice of head style, 12 point etc
I realize that sometimes you need them NOW, but when you don`t ..
I also clean up threads w/wire brush or wheel and reuse them. I just don't see anything on these bikes engineered to such tolerances where multiple uses of a bolt could possibly make any difference, and worrying over rotor fasteners because they're "critical" seems kinda silly to me given that any one of a number of pieces and parts that are given much less attention could potentially cause a wreck, and any motorcycle crash is potentially life threatening. By that logic you could justify replacing the wheels with every rotor change as well--your life depends on them, right? Not that I'm advocating the taking of any unnecessary risk, but I don't think this is even on the radar. If safety were our absolute top priority we wouldn't be riding motorcycles in the first place.
That said if you're the type to fret over things then absolutely go ahead and replace them, but I sure as hell wouldn't pay HD $50 for an $8-$10 set of bolts.
If you have a SMALL torch or good soldering iron, heat the head a little before removing, it will loosen the thread locker up making the bolts easier to remove.
If you do change the hardware, and try to go cheap, remember that Stainless Steel can be very soft, as in sub grade 5 strength, make sure you replace with the correct hardness/ strength ... it is hard to stop when the rotor bolts have sheared....
If you have a thread CHASER (not tap, taps remove metal, chasers do not) run one thru the holes to clean out any residual crap.... that crud can give you a false torque indication
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