Rapping/rattling noise on 2002 Twim Cam 103
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Tourer
Joined: Sep 2013
Posts: 326
Likes: 5
From: Wilmette, Illinois
Rapping/rattling noise on 2002 Twim Cam 103
On my 2012 RGU 103 engine I have been getting a rapping/rattling Jose about 3,000 rpm when accelerating in first and second gear. Does not seem to happen in higher gears or when accelerating hard and does not happen all the time. The engine has Harley Cams as an upgrade, Crane lifters, upgraded cam bearing, adjustable push rods and Rock Outs in the rocker arms. Also last summer I checked the compensator, a Baker unit and it seemed fine. Wondering if anyone has an idea what this could be or where to start looking?
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 1,296
Likes: 1,229
From: Depends on where I am
I had a similar intermittent rattle develop about a year after I bought my bike. It took me a while to figure it out because it didnt make the noise at idle, just certain rpm. It ended up being the left muffler mount under the saddlebag was loose. I replaced the rubber mounts and put loctite on the bolts, that took care of it.
Also had a heat shield clamp loosen up that made a similar rattling noise.
I would start by going over the bike carefully front to back, checking every bolt and hardware you can see or feel. Preferably with it up on a jack or lift to see things a little better.
Also had a heat shield clamp loosen up that made a similar rattling noise.
I would start by going over the bike carefully front to back, checking every bolt and hardware you can see or feel. Preferably with it up on a jack or lift to see things a little better.
HDF Community Team
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 1,434
Likes: 800
From: Colorado
How many miles on the motor since it was tweaked, and did they replace the spring loaded cam belt tensioner system over to hydraulic cam belt tenisioners?
Hence spring loaded tension shoes will eat them selves apart in about 30~40K (99 to 2006), while the updated hydrolic tension shoes (2007 and up, and since it running off building pressure the higher the RPMs), last around 60K before they need to be replaced.
If the noise is not coming from the right hand side nose cone, but the left hand side of the front of the primary, may still be the comp?
If noise is coming from the back side of the primary, then double check your front pulley to make sure it not come loose.
Note, where not uncommon for the clutch basket rivets to come loose with hop up power, and although you get more vibration, it does start it life as noise to begin with.
If noise if from the top valve covers, then could just be the noise of the rocker rod clanking, or adjustable push rods that may come loose and need to be readjusted.
Hell, depending if they changed bearings of not on the build (and what type of bearings), could be a bearing going south anywhere in the motor,primary. or trans.
Really, sound clip of the noise and where it's coming from would be a great help pinpointing the problem in the first place.
Hence spring loaded tension shoes will eat them selves apart in about 30~40K (99 to 2006), while the updated hydrolic tension shoes (2007 and up, and since it running off building pressure the higher the RPMs), last around 60K before they need to be replaced.
If the noise is not coming from the right hand side nose cone, but the left hand side of the front of the primary, may still be the comp?
If noise is coming from the back side of the primary, then double check your front pulley to make sure it not come loose.
Note, where not uncommon for the clutch basket rivets to come loose with hop up power, and although you get more vibration, it does start it life as noise to begin with.
If noise if from the top valve covers, then could just be the noise of the rocker rod clanking, or adjustable push rods that may come loose and need to be readjusted.
Hell, depending if they changed bearings of not on the build (and what type of bearings), could be a bearing going south anywhere in the motor,primary. or trans.
Really, sound clip of the noise and where it's coming from would be a great help pinpointing the problem in the first place.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 16,271
Likes: 15,108
From: Somewhere SW
When I was running 57h cams in my 2013 103 I would get a valve noise around 2900 rpm that would disappear when I went out of that range. From what I understand those cams are notorious for making top end noise.
Anyhow I ran those cams for about 30k miles before switching back to my 255s
Anyhow I ran those cams for about 30k miles before switching back to my 255s
Supporter
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 15,787
Likes: 5,615
From: along the shore of Mishigami
I chased a rattle on my 02 Dyna with fwd controls, found the bushings for the the toe shift shaft worn causing the shaft to bounce around in the housing. Check your jiffy stand, if it's resting on the frame and not the rubber bumper, it will rattle.
Road Master
Joined: Jan 2020
Posts: 856
Likes: 373
From: Duke City, NM
They all do that. What oils do you use.
cross thread points?
Twin cams are notorious for ticking. I’ve been chasing mine for years and finally gave up. I did stage 2 and even added a quarter turn on the push rods, added rockouts, nothing helped. When I did stage two, the RPM for it changed a little. Kind of like a straight 6 from the 60’s half a quart low and running at 2500 RPM.
cross thread points?
Twin cams are notorious for ticking. I’ve been chasing mine for years and finally gave up. I did stage 2 and even added a quarter turn on the push rods, added rockouts, nothing helped. When I did stage two, the RPM for it changed a little. Kind of like a straight 6 from the 60’s half a quart low and running at 2500 RPM.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,399
Likes: 1,040
From: Seabrook, NH
On my 2012 RGU 103 engine I have been getting a rapping/rattling Jose about 3,000 rpm when accelerating in first and second gear. Does not seem to happen in higher gears or when accelerating hard and does not happen all the time. The engine has Harley Cams as an upgrade, Crane lifters, upgraded cam bearing, adjustable push rods and Rock Outs in the rocker arms. Also last summer I checked the compensator, a Baker unit and it seemed fine. Wondering if anyone has an idea what this could be or where to start looking?
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