Wheel bearings this go-round?
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2017
Posts: 7,323
Likes: 11,760
From: Omaha,NE
Wow...You can buy the entire All ***** kit (front and rear, and sprocket bearings w/ ABS) for that money. 
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 12,254
Likes: 4,946
From: England
SKF and *** make good quality bearings that would cost a fraction of that $86.
In another application there is no guarantee that a ceramic balled bearing is any better than a steel balled bearing.
In another application there is no guarantee that a ceramic balled bearing is any better than a steel balled bearing.
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Road Warrior
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,272
Likes: 443
From: SETx
I’ll be replacing them and making sure they’re greased inside the seals adequately before they go in. I’ve got access to the tools and all. Seems like the vast majority of sealed bearings I’ve ever installed in anything eventually die from lack of lube.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,471
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From: pacific northwest
I lost a rear one on the low rider at 23k, ones with the Timken name can be found at a bearing supply house. even so they do not have that much grease, I pack them with wheel bearing grease before installing.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 177
Likes: 44
From: PA
I'd say inspect... If they turn firmly but smoothly they are fine. Although, if you continue to run the bearings, popping out the seal and repacking with fresh grease is a good idea.
The main reason for premature bearing failures is improper installation. The first bearing is pressed in until it bottoms in the hub. The second bearing is then pressed in only far enough to eliminate the clearance between the bearings and the bearing spacer. If the second bearing is pressed in too tightly (too far), the bearing(s) will have too much side load on the outboard side of the outer race and the inboard side of the inner race. If it is not pressed in far enough the side loads are opposite once the axle torque is applied. These excessive side loads will wear out the bearings prematurely.
The correct bearing depth is when the spacer is snug between the bearings. It should take very firm finger pressure to move the spacer. If you can easily move the spacer using finger pressure, then the bearing is not pressed in far enough. If you can't move it at all with firm finger pressure, then the bearing is pressed in too far.
I've got over 240,000 miles on the bikes listed in my signature (100,000+ on one of them) without a single bearing failure.
The main reason for premature bearing failures is improper installation. The first bearing is pressed in until it bottoms in the hub. The second bearing is then pressed in only far enough to eliminate the clearance between the bearings and the bearing spacer. If the second bearing is pressed in too tightly (too far), the bearing(s) will have too much side load on the outboard side of the outer race and the inboard side of the inner race. If it is not pressed in far enough the side loads are opposite once the axle torque is applied. These excessive side loads will wear out the bearings prematurely.
The correct bearing depth is when the spacer is snug between the bearings. It should take very firm finger pressure to move the spacer. If you can easily move the spacer using finger pressure, then the bearing is not pressed in far enough. If you can't move it at all with firm finger pressure, then the bearing is pressed in too far.
I've got over 240,000 miles on the bikes listed in my signature (100,000+ on one of them) without a single bearing failure.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 4,998
Likes: 655
From: bklyn,ny
Dragbike magazine has a good article on them in their tech section a while back.
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