Help!! Rear brakes won't release.
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Intermediate
Joined: May 2019
Posts: 38
Likes: 4
From: Peoria,AZ
Help!! Rear brakes won't release.
I just bought a 2020 FLTRXS a few days ago with only 11k miles. Today I was changing some parts and I installed a new precision billet rear brake arm . The install went as expected as I have replaced rear brake arm on 2 road glides before. After installing I got on the bike and headed out. Things were normal for about the first mile when suddenly Just as I was about to merge with the highway the bike seemed to bog down and lose power. Then I smelled brakes and realized that Is my rear brakes we're completely locked up despite the fact I had never used them. I had to call a buddy and we had to pry the rear caliper apart In the breakdown lane of the highway So I could limp the short distance home. Even in the short distance I had to pull over one more time as they locked up again. I checked the brake fluid level and it's good and the fluid itself is clean. I am well aware that Harley recommends it be changed every 2 years because the last road glide special I had Suffered from all kinds of trouble with the ABS and wound up replacing the hydraulic control unit after it failed. So I am well versed on the subject and controversy surrounding the recalls and ABS issues and class action lawsuits against HD. So now I'm having déjŕ vu And hoping I don't have another hydraulic control unit failure on my hands. At the moment though it just seems too coincidental that I had just replaced the brake pedal. So I'm turning to all of you guys who know far more than me for help. I took the pads out of the rear caliper and they were worn down to almost nothing and need replaced.I also noticed that the brake arm at rest is touching the exhaust pipe and when I try to depress it it is very hard. I'd really like to hear you guys opinions , thoughts, and possible fixes. Thanks in advance!
Road Warrior
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 1,703
Likes: 909
From: SE Michigan
I think its the rear brake pedal, if it all worked fine prior, you didnt open or disturb the hydraulic system, but replaced a mechanical component
start there.
Remove the rear brake pedal, or at least remove the pin at the clevis point. Push and pump the arm (clevis) and see if it stops and releases the rear brake (Jack up the back end and spin wheel)
If this returns and spins/stops as it should, see what is either assembled or adjusted incorrectly.
The 2 year fluid change recommendation is for moisture absorbed, it will SLOWLY degrade performance if not done and eventually you could have limited braking or a failure.
This is not that.
This is an immediate failure after a piece has been replaced.
Something isnt assembled or adjusted correctly.
To fully vet the solution, and I know this is a PITA put the stocker back on.
You very well could have gotten a poorly machined or faulty designed rear brake pedal.
Remove the rear brake pedal, or at least remove the pin at the clevis point. Push and pump the arm (clevis) and see if it stops and releases the rear brake (Jack up the back end and spin wheel)
If this returns and spins/stops as it should, see what is either assembled or adjusted incorrectly.
The 2 year fluid change recommendation is for moisture absorbed, it will SLOWLY degrade performance if not done and eventually you could have limited braking or a failure.
This is not that.
This is an immediate failure after a piece has been replaced.
Something isnt assembled or adjusted correctly.
To fully vet the solution, and I know this is a PITA put the stocker back on.
You very well could have gotten a poorly machined or faulty designed rear brake pedal.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 24,526
Likes: 30,842
From: Pennsylvania
Well as it is a 2020 model, the warranty should still be good. However, you made changes to the factory parts and pieces of your brake system; so you may have voided the warranty on that area, but brakes are considered a wear item.
My opinion, thought and fix is this:
Put the original parts back on and put new brake pads on and check your rotor for warping. That and test your brake fluid for moisture. When installing non-factory parts you should always test and verify IAW the Harley Service Manual specifications, then take a test ride to ensure all is working as intended.
Good Luck!
My opinion, thought and fix is this:
Put the original parts back on and put new brake pads on and check your rotor for warping. That and test your brake fluid for moisture. When installing non-factory parts you should always test and verify IAW the Harley Service Manual specifications, then take a test ride to ensure all is working as intended.
Good Luck!
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 631
From: NorCal Rocklin
Well as it is a 2020 model, the warranty should still be good. However, you made changes to the factory parts and pieces of your brake system; so you may have voided the warranty on that area, but brakes are considered a wear item.
My opinion, thought and fix is this:
Put the original parts back on and put new brake pads on and check your rotor for warping. That and test your brake fluid for moisture. When installing non-factory parts you should always test and verify IAW the Harley Service Manual specifications, then take a test ride to ensure all is working as intended.
Good Luck!
My opinion, thought and fix is this:
Put the original parts back on and put new brake pads on and check your rotor for warping. That and test your brake fluid for moisture. When installing non-factory parts you should always test and verify IAW the Harley Service Manual specifications, then take a test ride to ensure all is working as intended.
Good Luck!
Best way to troubleshoot right there.
Banned
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 4,027
Likes: 6,286
From: SoCal
Sounds like the wrong arm was used and the angle of the actuator arm is causing the rod to be pushed into the MC when it's at rest.
Make a good comparison between the new and original arms to see if they are shaped exactly the same.
Make a good comparison between the new and original arms to see if they are shaped exactly the same.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 21,173
Likes: 12,740
From: South Carolina
Sounds like the arm is pressing the brake pad on one side against the caliper.
As already suggested, reinstall the oem arm and see if the issue persists.
As already suggested, reinstall the oem arm and see if the issue persists.
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HDF Community Team
Joined: Nov 2012
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From: USA
Ill agree with the others, the problem is your new brake arm. Let me use a few more word to explain.
When you apply your brakes, the master cylinder piston pushes fluid down to the calipers, and the brakes work.
When you release the brakes, springs push the piston in the master cylinder all the way backwards. This not only releases the brakes, but uncovers a little bleed port to the fluid reservoir.
If you dont have this play, the brakes are constantly on, drag, and get hot. That builds up hydraulic pressure, and the brakes drag ever harder, getting hotter still. And you finally end up with no brakes at all, or dead on the side of the road, like you were.
This is why the stock brakes have a little play. Its to make sure everything is completely released, and that this bleed port is open. There is some natural pad drag, but any fluid expansion or such is vented to the reservoir, so no pressure build up takes place.
in your case, there likely isnt that little bit of slop. Its usually adjustable, with either the rod, or the brake pedal stop.
So you need to see, and make the adjustment to allow for that bit of play in the brake linkage.
When you apply your brakes, the master cylinder piston pushes fluid down to the calipers, and the brakes work.
When you release the brakes, springs push the piston in the master cylinder all the way backwards. This not only releases the brakes, but uncovers a little bleed port to the fluid reservoir.
If you dont have this play, the brakes are constantly on, drag, and get hot. That builds up hydraulic pressure, and the brakes drag ever harder, getting hotter still. And you finally end up with no brakes at all, or dead on the side of the road, like you were.
This is why the stock brakes have a little play. Its to make sure everything is completely released, and that this bleed port is open. There is some natural pad drag, but any fluid expansion or such is vented to the reservoir, so no pressure build up takes place.
in your case, there likely isnt that little bit of slop. Its usually adjustable, with either the rod, or the brake pedal stop.
So you need to see, and make the adjustment to allow for that bit of play in the brake linkage.
