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So, you opened the Cam Chest, looked at what you thought was acceptable shoe wear, and buttoned it up? Is that right? Don't recall seeing anything about the inner bearings upgrade. Do you plan on that? Have the tool? I always cut open my oil filter when doing changes and that's what led me to change my tensioner shoes. I saw flecks in the filter media.
I did open the cam chest. I think the suggested check was supposed to be around 20k. Well my lazy **** finally got around to that 1st insp. at 31K, tensioner pads have deep groove slots. Didn't mic. em but what should be the top flat surface of the pads rises up from the chain flat up to the chain connector pins. so I did button it up while trying to scratch together funds for parts. No riding, just a wee bit of run time so the insides don't rust up. Some years back I would have just gone out or ordered all I needed at once. Unfortunately I missed the sign that said "Bridge Out Ahead" so to speak. Now It's scrimp and cut corners for enough to buy a couple parts or tools at a time every month or so. I did get all the specialty tools, inner bearing puller/pusher plate and associated necessary bits and pieces, a decent 6 ton A frame press for outer/cam plate bearings, and a run out tool plate and gauge to see where I am with that, just need to order the outer bearing jig, some time in Mar., tensioner unloader, sprocket lock,. I listed some or most parts, One S&S kit has the inner and outer bearings. The other S&S kit has the Quickie rods and covers etc. I changed the oil and filter last fall so while the bike sits and runs just a bit I know I will be changing it again. My guess, do the do then change oil and filter before cold start up with new assembly lubed parts, oil and filter. A shop that did some work years back used Amsoil, otherwise I've used H/D Syn3 over these last 19 years,, Damn,, time flies. As far as cutting the oil filter open, to see what flies around the innerds. I have given that some thought. Saw, I believe it was Fueling's site they sell little chrome magnets that stick around the outside of the filter. Well I says to myself,,, Self,,, lets try something like that, just bigger and better? Got an old microwave from the dump, tore it apart, lowe and behold,, ey-god now there,, is a couple of magnets. OD is appx. 3.5 in. or better. and appx 1/2 in thick. The center hole just fits over the nut on the outside of the K&N oil filter, so it sits flat against the whole outside top/or out facing surface. Haha, even spray painted it chrome so it don't stick out like a sore pecker. I will see soon enough what hard bits are trying to carve up my innerds,, if any? Thanks for checking in on my progress. I'm a bit of, or maybe even mildly fair wrencher but this is my first venture into the deep end of this pool. I've had 5 months now to read, watch videos, some good, some, not as much and have several seeming knowledgeable caring folks that watch over my progress on here. That, I will be forever thankful for. If I missed anything please feel free to mention it. I can't really afford to f--k this process up at this time.
By the way, what's the best way to open up the filter with out making a mess?
I did open the cam chest. I think the suggested check was supposed to be around 20k. Well my lazy **** finally got around to that 1st insp. at 31K, tensioner pads have deep groove slots. Didn't mic. em but what should be the top flat surface of the pads rises up from the chain flat up to the chain connector pins. so I did button it up while trying to scratch together funds for parts. No riding, just a wee bit of run time so the insides don't rust up. Some years back I would have just gone out or ordered all I needed at once. Unfortunately I missed the sign that said "Bridge Out Ahead" so to speak. Now It's scrimp and cut corners for enough to buy a couple parts or tools at a time every month or so. I did get all the specialty tools, inner bearing puller/pusher plate and associated necessary bits and pieces, a decent 6 ton A frame press for outer/cam plate bearings, and a run out tool plate and gauge to see where I am with that, just need to order the outer bearing jig, some time in Mar., tensioner unloader, sprocket lock,. I listed some or most parts, One S&S kit has the inner and outer bearings. The other S&S kit has the Quickie rods and covers etc. I changed the oil and filter last fall so while the bike sits and runs just a bit I know I will be changing it again. My guess, do the do then change oil and filter before cold start up with new assembly lubed parts, oil and filter. A shop that did some work years back used Amsoil, otherwise I've used H/D Syn3 over these last 19 years,, Damn,, time flies. As far as cutting the oil filter open, to see what flies around the innerds. I have given that some thought. Saw, I believe it was Fueling's site they sell little chrome magnets that stick around the outside of the filter. Well I says to myself,,, Self,,, lets try something like that, just bigger and better? Got an old microwave from the dump, tore it apart, lowe and behold,, ey-god now there,, is a couple of magnets. OD is appx. 3.5 in. or better. and appx 1/2 in thick. The center hole just fits over the nut on the outside of the K&N oil filter, so it sits flat against the whole outside top/or out facing surface. Haha, even spray painted it chrome so it don't stick out like a sore pecker. I will see soon enough what hard bits are trying to carve up my innerds,, if any? Thanks for checking in on my progress. I'm a bit of, or maybe even mildly fair wrencher but this is my first venture into the deep end of this pool. I've had 5 months now to read, watch videos, some good, some, not as much and have several seeming knowledgeable caring folks that watch over my progress on here. That, I will be forever thankful for. If I missed anything please feel free to mention it. I can't really afford to f--k this process up at this time.
By the way, what's the best way to open up the filter with out making a mess?
It is very addictive. If you have the inner bearing press plate you don't need a another plate for measuring the crank pinion runout. You just need a dial indicator and a magnetic base. Check out some videos. Also, I didn't find the need for the camshaft press alignment tool for the outer bearings in the plate. They're a light press and you just need to eyeball it straight and press as you hold the other cam. Don't forget to thoroughly clean out the cam plate too. As for opening the oil filter, I punch a hole in the end and allow it to drain thoroughly first. Then I place it in my bench vise and use a small chisel to start an opening at the base next to the flange where I can get my tin snips in. From there it's just like opening a can. Cut and lever as you go. Then you can pull the inside media tube out and cut at the edges with a razor knife to separate the media. Squeeze it by hand while holding it in a rag to get any leftover oil out, then spread it out on a table and examine. It's pretty long. There's also videos on that. YouTube is great. Lastly, I'd be interested to see if your magnet on the filter end picks anything up.
Thanks for checking back. I got the A frame press at Harbor Freight, less than 80.00. Figure I'll be using that for the bearings on the front wheels of the truck 95 f150 4x4 with manual locking hubs when I do the brake job. 27 yrs old it may be good to repl. those bearings too. . No, that simple brake job ain't all that simple either, but I'll be ready fer it I had thought about opening up the oil filter but my head went to dremel with metal cut off wheel,, then realized,, well shoot now that would sling so much metal bits into the filter I wouldn't be able to tell the difference of can opening and motor grinding filings. Guess it would be smarter to use something like you mentioned or find an old style hand operated can opener or tin shears. I will be at least taking some pics of this process and will get some shots of the open oil filter. Will also get a pic of that magnet and put that up on here later today. Here's the press I got. Harbor Freight tools may not be the finest quality. If I used them every day for work/on the job? but just using them from time to time ya just can't beat their pricing.
Thanks for checking back. I got the A frame press at Harbor Freight, less than 80.00. Figure I'll be using that for the bearings on the front wheels of the truck 95 f150 4x4 with manual locking hubs when I do the brake job. 27 yrs old it may be good to repl. those bearings too. . No, that simple brake job ain't all that simple either, but I'll be ready fer it I had thought about opening up the oil filter but my head went to dremel with metal cut off wheel,, then realized,, well shoot now that would sling so much metal bits into the filter I wouldn't be able to tell the difference of can opening and motor grinding filings. Guess it would be smarter to use something like you mentioned or find an old style hand operated can opener or tin shears. I will be at least taking some pics of this process and will get some shots of the open oil filter. Will also get a pic of that magnet and put that up on here later today. Here's the press I got. Harbor Freight tools may not be the finest quality. If I used them every day for work/on the job? but just using them from time to time ya just can't beat their pricing.
I got their 12 ton press for cheap. It was on sale and I had a 20% coupon. But when I got it home discovered the platten rods were missing. So the mgr gave me the ones off his floor model and another 20% for the inconvenience. My daughter worked near them so she picked them up. The cashier had a note from the mgr about the 20% off so he gave her another 20% off what the mgr already priced it at. He wasn't there and my daughter didn't know anything so I got 60% off! It's paid for itself many times over now. I pressed 7 bearings out and in on a GMC Transfer Case.
I use my Dremel for everything but yeah don't use anything like that on the filter. They make filter cutters but they're kinda pricey. One of these days! Here's my press.
Just a thought...but why didn't you just buy s set cyco cam shoes for 20 bucks and put them in while saving money to do the other work? This way you could have been riding for the last 9 months and then you could actually save enough to do heads, big bore and all the stuff you already are planning? My daddy always said "buy once , cry once". I like riding better than "lettin er warm up er innerds once a week" lol. Keep the faith...you'll get there
Just a thought...but why didn't you just buy s set cyco cam shoes for 20 bucks and put them in while saving money to do the other work? This way you could have been riding for the last 9 months and then you could actually save enough to do heads, big bore and all the stuff you already are planning? My daddy always said "buy once , cry once". I like riding better than "lettin er warm up er innerds once a week" lol. Keep the faith...you'll get there
Yeah,, I thought about that. thought best to change the bearings while in there, that led to, damn, got to have the push me pull u set to do that, oh what the hell, top side not coming off so Quickies to get all that mess in and out. That led to may not do this again so lifters wound up on the list. That led to cams with all the umphf I could get while fitting in without head job. That led to well? What about a conversion kit,, I mean, **** this stuff is like heroin,,, just a little will never do, always need a little more. Actually, for reasons not disclosed here, I haven't able to ride since July 2019 so it didn't bother me too much to consider all needed and get that rounded up and just do all I could at once.
Thanks for checking back. I got the A frame press at Harbor Freight, less than 80.00. Figure I'll be using that for the bearings on the front wheels of the truck 95 f150 4x4 with manual locking hubs when I do the brake job. 27 yrs old it may be good to repl. those bearings too. . No, that simple brake job ain't all that simple either, but I'll be ready fer it I had thought about opening up the oil filter but my head went to dremel with metal cut off wheel,, then realized,, well shoot now that would sling so much metal bits into the filter I wouldn't be able to tell the difference of can opening and motor grinding filings. Guess it would be smarter to use something like you mentioned or find an old style hand operated can opener or tin shears. I will be at least taking some pics of this process and will get some shots of the open oil filter. Will also get a pic of that magnet and put that up on here later today. Here's the press I got. Harbor Freight tools may not be the finest quality. If I used them every day for work/on the job? but just using them from time to time ya just can't beat their pricing.
Here's a couple pic's of the magnets I scavenged from that old microwave. It's just a hair-brained scheme I came up with after seeing little chrome magnets about the size of my thumb nail,
4 being placed around the filter mid way, being sold through a very reputable M/C Parts MFG. Won't know how well this will work until I get the new parts in and change the oil. I will open the filter and send along pics then as well.
The only thing magnets will pick up is steel. By the time that you see steel in there your engine is DONE! FIRST THINGS TO GO ARE THE ALUMINUM PARTS that will grind up and contaminate your whole engine, taking the steel with them.
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