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I do not think you will find many people that stayed with 12's, considering that after you set a sag, you are not really increasing much height, but gaining much larger travel length from 12 inch vs. 13 inch. I was thinking the same and wanted to stay with stock height, because I didn't want to rise the bike, but everything I read, everyone said to switch to 13 inch. After setting everything up, I do not see any difference in height from stock to 13 inch Legends. At least it doesn't feel like it...
Still waiting to hear your thoughts have you rode it yet?
Your thread about legends has turned into about every shock but legends.
Everything I am reading is with the Legends front, it will be noticeable more on smaller bumps, but bigger bumps will be soaked up. Is that accurate? Now I feel like with stock , when I hit a pothole, front end feels like it's all loose...I know it's not, but it feels like it. With Legends, does it feel more "solid" when hitting those obstacles? It's hard to explain and I hope I am expressing myself correctly here....
I find the small bumps are soaked up by the Legends front but big bumps can be pretty jarring. It does not feel "loose" when you hit a pothole or large bumps though. With Legends on the front, it is VERY tight. My only complaint about them would be I wish they soaked up more of the big "jarring" bumps. The OEM front felt very bouncy and soft. Legends up front are totally opposite, stiff and seem to have less travel. Much more "sporty" feel.
I just bought the Bitubo JBH cartridge system as well as the WMEo rear shocks. I researched all of them extensively and decided on the Bitubo. I wanted the forks to have adjustability external as you required. The Bitubo is a gas pressurized cartridge system where the Ohlins is a conventional oil system. The gas pressurized system setup can be considered a superior setup however the Ohlins system is also top notch. The Ohlins FKS cannot be adjusted for rebound and compression once installed on the bike as the top of the fork contacts the bottom of the handlebar. You can get to the preload only without lowering the forks. The Bitubo can be adjusted for compression and rebound as well as preload however the preload adjustment I am told will be tight. The Bitubo installation will be easier than the Ohlins as well.
And the Bitubo front and rear setup cost me $1350 OTD. The Ohlins setup would have been almost $2000 and while the money was not the issue I decided on the Bitubo due to the front setup. I think the WMEo shocks will be close to the Ohlins equivalent and at half the price I though I'd give them a try. We'll see how it goes.
I was just refunded $171 for the springs that the dealer said I needed to order separately as you do with Ohlins. The springs come with the Bitubo JBH Cartridge. Total OTD now was $1181.45 for the JBH cartridges and the WMEo shocks.
I stayed with the 12" Pro Action because the 12" offers a half inch more travel then the stock shock. After setting sag you still have more travel then the stock yet the ride height stayed the same.
Well, I had some time riding with new shocks. I still regret not doing this earlier. I have my sag set and I rode on setting #3 for pre-load. I didn't mess around with that setting yet. I do have a 500 mile trip first week of may, so I am excited to see how the bile will ride on long trip. Right now, front end is in need of some love. I might do that in the winter.
To address some of the questions and comments. I could of go with any of the shocks. I looked at SE Ohlins, non-SE branded Ohlins, then Black Series from Ohlins and Legends, both Revo-A and Revo-ARC. The reason why I ultimately went with Revo-A vs. Black Series Ohlins is Lifetime warranty and some comments that I read saying Ohlins need to be rebuild. In addition, I didn't like the fact that I needed a tool to adjust Ohlins. With Revo-A shocks, I can just twist the spring and it's set. Another reason why I didn't go with Ohlins SEs or their gold Ohlins is because for the riding I do, I didn't really feel that spending extra $500 was worth it for the benefit that I would get from them.I don't ride my bike in twisties, or track. All I cared about was a solid regular riding performance. Revo-A fit that bill. The reason why I went with 13 inch instead of 12, was from watching Legends videos and what ws recommended. I don't care if my bike is higher 1/2 inch if I get little more than usual shock travel.
Hope that answers some questions/comments. I love those Revo-As. Super easy to install and adjust. They transformed the whole bike for me.
To add... I am seriously considering sending my front forks to Traxxion. Max worked on my shocks on my R1 very long time ago and he did an amazing job. I recently found out that they have a solution for HD bikes.
What great reviews! My 03 FLHRCI came with air shocks. they were a grand improvement over other bikes I had owned in earlier years. I would love to track down a set to repl. my OEM shocks, Alas my cam chest re do has sunk my budget for the time being. I will keep this info. for future reference fer sure. My current issue, some months back while going over the bike I tried to check the pressure in my shocks. "0",, not unexpected as it had been off the road fer a bit. I tried to add some air but found it leaked out faster than it was going in. If it was a little slower leak I may could track it down until the upgrade becomes possible. The hoses seem ok but then there is the connections at the shocks and maybe the shocks themselves. I know the EPA would have a spaz attack but I could use a wee bit of 134A and use my leak detector if the leak was slow, that aside what would be a good place to start. Mine may be beyond repair, thought I'd give it a try if a cheep temporary fix is possible. Any thoughts on this are welcomed
WELL, as my avatar suggests,, I found the air leak,, finally! When I got the bike it had the schrader valve mounted on the bracket very near the top of the shock bracket left side pointing straight outward . Found I could not get to it without much difficulty, saddlebag in the way. I added some fittings to make it turn up at a 90 angle to get the air chuck and gauge on and off much easier. Apparently I had not secured the first fitting well and it had worked loose. Today, after taking the fittings loose, cleaning them, putting back together, lock washer behind the fitting at the bracket and thread sealing it all back together. Ta-Da no more leaks. Bought an inexpensive bicycle hand operated pump with air guage. All holding at 20psi, Will be re adjusting that after the cam chest re-do before the riding commences. No new 900.00 shocks for me.
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