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UPDATE
ALL seals are holding tight except I keep getting a leak on the LARGE lip seal in the inner primary CASE ONLY. I changed that seal from a James to a HD and it still leaks. There's no damage or cuts or anything that I can see using a magnifying glass.
The Id of the seal seems tight with respect to od of the race. I installed the seal "oil side" towards the oil.
What am I missing?
Also the race has moved INBOARD again. HD says there's no way to stop that and they do not have a fix however this should not cause it to leak.
Factory comp. 2008 FLHT. 142,000 miles. Only bangs very seldom. Last time I was in there, it checked out good. Yeah, undoubtedly on borrowed time by now. Probably replace it when I redo the clutch.
UPDATE
ALL seals are holding tight except I keep getting a leak on the LARGE lip seal in the inner primary CASE ONLY. I changed that seal from a James to a HD and it still leaks. There's no damage or cuts or anything that I can see using a magnifying glass.
The Id of the seal seems tight with respect to od of the race. I installed the seal "oil side" towards the oil.
What am I missing?
Also the race has moved INBOARD again. HD says there's no way to stop that and they do not have a fix however this should not cause it to leak.
as usual the aftermarket has a fix for HD 's design. Two options...s&s makes a tapered race that will not walk inwards for around 55 bucks...kinda pricey for a little piece of metal but it works great. I ve had one on my bike for around 50k and no problems. The other option is baker drive train makes a bearing that eliminates the race all together but typical of baker they are very proud if it and price it accordingly...makes the s&s option seem like a bargain.
as usual the aftermarket has a fix for HD 's design. Two options...s&s makes a tapered race that will not walk inwards for around 55 bucks...kinda pricey for a little piece of metal but it works great. I ve had one on my bike for around 50k and no problems. The other option is baker drive train makes a bearing that eliminates the race all together but typical of baker they are very proud if it and price it accordingly...makes the s&s option seem like a bargain.
Yea
After careful research I decided on the one piece baker bearing and seal kit. Should be here any day.
If that does not stop that leak then I have no idea what it is. We'll see.
Oh yea UPS fees are OUTRAGEOUS.
as usual the aftermarket has a fix for HD 's design. Two options...s&s makes a tapered race that will not walk inwards for around 55 bucks...kinda pricey for a little piece of metal but it works great. I ve had one on my bike for around 50k and no problems. The other option is baker drive train makes a bearing that eliminates the race all together but typical of baker they are very proud if it and price it accordingly...makes the s&s option seem like a bargain.
I did baker. It was around $50. I got it on 2 bikes. Not long enough to say. One had inner race that walked, other had 2 failed factory bearings 25k apart
I did baker. It was around $50. I got it on 2 bikes. Not long enough to say. One had inner race that walked, other had 2 failed factory bearings 25k apart
Why did you change the bearing? Was there a leak like mine or simply because the oem race walked?
Did you notice any PLAY in your MAIN shaft?
Did the bearings make some noise or....how did you know it had failed?
Are they known to fail when there is high miles or age?
My bike is a 2003 with 85k miles. Never driven hard. Evidently, all bikes that have that RACE walk almost immediately after install....at least that happened on mine.
ALL I want is to stop the leaks and ride.
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